Assemblying my FilaStruder (Page 1 of 2)

Holy mackerel. This will never cease to amaze me. For starters, it clearly says in the video description that the video is for v1.0 ONLY. You have v1.3. They are different. You cannot use the video.

The piece of copper pipe is part of the filament guide! It does not go on the auger. I am not sure why you think it is a 10mm washer. I think that the 10mm washer is under some of the 1/4" washers you show in the picture.

No idea what "Drill's assembly instructions" means. There is no metal bushing, which is why the PDF instructions do not speak of one (not in the instructions, or the parts list). You must be getting that idea from the video which again, is for v1.0.

I will include extra spacers with your replacement barrel.

Nope, each is different, especially the v1.0 to v1.1 jump. I learned a lot in the beginning of Kickstarter, and applied it as I went along.

Hi!
Please, check if I on the right direction.

With some effort, I managed to insert the auge inside the pipe nipple. Though, it is not spinning (I'll wait for the new to arrive).

What I have noticed is that the auge has some sort of gap when inserted. I've seen in your video (I know I am not supposed to follow it) that you talk about it. But, in this case the "Thrust bearing" are loose... specially if I push the auge inside the pipe nipple.
I didn't see yet in this forum a DIY kit like mine already assembled. Please tell me if you know of any. Taking a good look of what I am going to build is really helpful.

I am pretty sure I followed the stack order: "(10mm washer) --> shaft collar -> thrust bearing -> white plate -> flange".

By the way, I found the 10mm washer. It is the only one and it looks similar to the others.

I also printed some spacers in PLA while the Nylon's arrive.

Please check the pictures and video.

Thanks.

I just couldn't wait for the new pipe nipple.

I asked for a guy nearby to try to repair the pipe that came with my kit.
Seems like it started to work just fine, but then the auger got stuck while rotating and I had to turn the motor off (motor is safe!).

Take a look at the pictures and videos (please ignore the improvised place/installations).

I'd better wait for the new pipe nipple, right?

I had to disassembled the FilaStruder. The pipe had its internal surface all scratched up(see in the pictures and video).

One of the videos was too big to post here, so here's the address:
mediafire.com/watch/9cci0sauj7d06wf/IMG_2098.mpg

It is just that the IRS here takes soooo much time to dispatch the package after its arrival. Then I gave it a shot....
Did the USPS already picked the package up?

Check pictures and video of the Auger. Do you think it is gonna make it?

By the way... do you plan to build a machine for a bigger volume? If not, would you recommend any project/machine already available in the market?

Thanks man!

How much more output can we expect with the new high torque motor?

Ralph

Auger? You mean barrel?

Yeah you should be good to go. They look very similar but that bad batch had a smaller ID. Grind the entrances and deburr it and you should be all set.

Hi,
Here's the result after 3 hours extruding. The filament goes from gray to almost black. Does it really take that long to get rid of the rust, contaminants, etc?

I read that it should be running for about 8 hours to be ready for extrusion.

Thanks.

- The heaterband is "facing" the nozzle. So, here's one doubt, should it be closest to the nozzle or it should be on the other side of the part that holds nozzle and barrel together?
- The thermocouple was placed between the heaterband and its holder.
- Nozzle size is 3mm.
- It was extruding really slow... how are you measuring how fas it is? ... I mean.. the pattern that you guys are using? The barrel rotates 1 time / every 15s.

PID Temperature is set to 180C, but after some time it is going up to 200C.

Tim, this is what your instructions says this about thermocouple placement (RTA kit –> RTR extruder (electrical)):

"Connect the thermocouple to the controller by sliding it under the screws. Observe polarity. If using
the enclosure, you may need to bend the terminals of the thermocouple so the yellow thermocouple
connector does not interfere with the enclosure. Insert thermocouple in brass plug."

There is no picture nor instructions of its physical installation.

The information regarding the hotend is this:
16.) Wrap hotend with provided insulation. Provided
insulation is a bit intentionally undersized to provide a
tight wrapping. Form it to the shape of the heaterband
by squeezing it around the heater/coupling. Secure with
sticky section of paper wrapping. Edge of insulation
should be

There are only two holes in the brass plug. Plastic comes out of one. The other must be for the thermocouple! Furthermore, you left out part of the instructions. They actually say:

I do not know how to make that more clear! Insert the thermocouple, secure it with tape.

PID should not be rising 20C beyond set point. Either it needs to be auto tuned, or it is wired incorrectly.

Tim, could you please tell me what is the thermocouple type? K, T... etc?

Thanks!