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Topic: Stupid power supply question (at least I hope it is stupid :-).

I see a lot of the power supplies people point at in various posts around here are designed for LED strips and have multiple 12V outputs on a terminal strip. If I just want more power for the printrboard to be able to use a QU-BD heater, do I need to use more than one pair of the terminals on the power supply? (It isn't like there are really N separate power supplies in the box, each providing 1/N of the wattage is it?).

Speaking of the printrboard, I've seen a post around here saying the traces and driver on the printrboard are all adequate to run the QU-BD. Does that include the power socket as well. Would going from terminal strip on the supply to the kind of cylindrical plug already on the printrboard work well?

2 (edited by adrian 2013-11-15 01:12:11)

Re: Stupid power supply question (at least I hope it is stupid :-).

No - but each wire and terminal post has an amperage rating.

The multiple terminals allows you to either A: split it to different devices, or B:, what I do, run multiple lower-gauge wire (so instead of 1 x 16gauge behemoth, I run 2 x 18gauge ...) Its about load distribution, not total load - current to a single output will be 'kind of' (there is other things to consider, but practically speaking its ok to use the logic) shared equally the terminals... Its still limited to 25A but instead of all that current through one output (at which point, heat and failure are a concern), you can run 12.25A per 'channel'... or if its like most, where it has 3 outputs, 8.25A per channel. Moving 10A is ok on much smaller gauge wire than 25A (the impact is logarithmic)

Re the second part : No, not at QU-BD loads. The connector combined with the traces are not designed to have 15A (QU-BD + Other bits) running through it reliably.

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Re: Stupid power supply question (at least I hope it is stupid :-).

So, probably would need to replace the power connector on the printrboard with some sort of high power rated screw terminal or maybe just solder in pairs of 18 gauge wires to run to the power supply? (I'm just trying to decide how much work this would be before I decide to actually take the plunge :-).

4 (edited by adrian 2013-11-15 12:46:20)

Re: Stupid power supply question (at least I hope it is stupid :-).

Claghorn wrote:

So, probably would need to replace the power connector on the printrboard with some sort of high power rated screw terminal or maybe just solder in pairs of 18 gauge wires to run to the power supply? (I'm just trying to decide how much work this would be before I decide to actually take the plunge :-).

well - thats the approach I'd take for peace of mind and longevity of operation...  and you'd want to then directly patch the bed heater mosfet into the supply using some short lengths of that wire to bypass the PCB tracks.

Not at all time consuming (prob 10 mins of work) in return for confidence in the equipment.

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Re: Stupid power supply question (at least I hope it is stupid :-).

No doubt the connector on the printrboard for the output to the bed heater is also too feeble and needs replacing?

I'll definitely have to get a bigger tip for my Hakko soldering iron to work with big power connectors, the one I have now is for dainty electronics :-).

On the other hand, going the SSR route is sounding like less work (or at least less chance of destroying the printrboard).

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Re: Stupid power supply question (at least I hope it is stupid :-).

meh - i just use my hakko knock-off with its usual fine-pitch tip that I have for TQFP work, .1mm fine tip? anyway.. works fine, just use the side of the tip instead of the tip... more heat transfer there anyway. bit of flux and bob's your uncle...

But yes - SSR is less soldering-to-be-sure work, but you do need to make sure its heatsunk still etc and theres another package to deal with and whole seperate power runs yada yada... so its up to you if you mind the trade off of another package and associated wiring to lug around (that needs attention to be over-spec by double or heat-sunk) vs a 'neater' and more compact all-onboard solution.

Both options work as admirably as each other.. its the presentation and additional cost (40-50Amp DC-DC SSR's aren't chump change) vs the soldering work that primarily differs.

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Re: Stupid power supply question (at least I hope it is stupid :-).

I got a unit from amazon 12v 30a for 26$ and 1 week later it fried the ac load line trace.Sent it back now waiting on the replacement.During its run time i ran my sd2 and 3 fans pulling just 12 to 13 amps on it so i do like that.

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Re: Stupid power supply question (at least I hope it is stupid :-).

Yea, I read the reviews of the cheap units on amazon with all the folks reporting early death and went with a meanwell instead.