What's a modified SD3 worth? (Page 1 of 2)

No one's got any ideas on this?

Thanks.  If I could actually get that for it, that'd make getting a FlashForge within the year a more realistic possibility.  (Not that I've given up on the SD3, just trying to explore all my options.)

I will give you $300 for it with all the red neck mods you put on it, including the defective performance if you deliver it to my door, with the original parts on the side, and I can print a test part on it to my satisfaction. Don't fool your self, these things have all of $100 in parts in them and the only reason they sell for what they do now is because they are in early adopter hobbyist stage. This is not something you will get your money back out of. If HP could figure out how to sell you DMCA protected filament then you would get touch screen interface wireless internet connected 3D printers flooding the market from China for $99.99.

If I could build em for a hundred bucks in parts I wouldn't have bought mine from SD and I have several...

+1

$300 is what I would offer a rocketman just to be a jackass. 725-750 is a fair price I think.

Here is an educated assessment of the Solidoodle BOM-

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,169 … msg-170909

You guys read past "red neck mods"?  I thought that made clear it was a joke, and stopped there. 

Angle iron that was run through a chop saw and pop riveted together is not CNC.

Let's see the BOM breakdown for the filastruder now big guy.

You guys are leading edge and you pay the price for that, we as your customers subsidize that. I for one am happy to do so and I am glad you are able to do it. Keep up the good work. And please let me know when all 120# orders have shipped.

I don't think you realize how fast consumer products depreciate. Used makes it 50% off retail right away. There are after market mods, it is non-OEM, and it is admittedly defective. $300 is a fair offer.

I have an X64 quad core 3.6 GHz, 8GB RAM, SSD + RAID, gaming graphics, modular power supply, watered cooled computer here that I have about a grand into over the years. And by your math I can get $750 for it. Show up at my door with $750 cash and it is yours. And bring my struder with you.

Check the completed eBay listing first.   The stock Solidoodles don't take a very big discount.   The E3D and enclosure are assets  which improve functionality,  not detriments.

Since no one else will say it, I will:

Solve that last problem. Take video of it, show people what is happening. I know you are pretty much done with this, but from a selling stand-point you need to solve the issue. Stock SD3's are selling for only $100 below retail. A modified one such as yours should sell for more, but not if it still has problems.

The reason is that you can sell to the following people:

Someone experienced with SD mods: They already have an SD. Unless you were willing to sell for half the cost ($400 or less), they have no good reason to buy it knowing it needs to be fixed. If it was already fixed, then they would buy it for less of a discount knowing they would save the time of performing the upgrades. This assumes these people are even in the market for another SD (maybe a friend or relative?). I would say $800 or more in good working condition.

Someone less experienced: Maybe someone who has a non-functioning printer or failed kit looking for a better printer, maybe on a budget. This person is not looking to buy a problem.

No experience: These people are just getting into things. It would take them weeks of research to understand what it is you are offering, and the understanding of exactly what it is they would be getting into. Think what it would be like if you never heard of 3d printing and your best friend brought over this exact Solidoodle with this exact problem and asked for your help. How confident would you feel even after reading through pages of forums and such that you could fix the problem cold? So for this market, your not going to get anyone to buy it. These people are only considering stock machines from the vendor.

Foofoodog: Good ploy. Bash the design to get a better discount. Funny, you have repeatedly reported that your SD runs great.

The Y skip is tough, I kept running into it until I replaced the stepper.  The things to try are greasing the rods with lithium grease, and doing the method in the perfect circles video.  It might be a matter of finding the right combination of tension between the drive belt and the long belts.  Tightening the drive belt by pushing the motor down helps eliminate backlash, but it makes the Y axis harder to move, and if you do tighten it too much it can bend the rod a little.  Keep the drive belt loose enough that when you push the extruder back, it doesn't make the front of the printer lift up.  The long belts should be loosish.  If you have the tension gauge I made, I usually keep them between the third and forth notches. 

When you adjust the tension on the long belts, it might be a good idea to loosen the pulleys and slide it forward and back a few times to make sure they are in alignment.  I think John has suggested previously that getting the tension the same between belts isn't that important, what matters is that the pulleys are positioned on the rod where they need to be, rotationally.  If you tighten a belt, I think the tension would stay tighter on the top of the loop than the bottom, because the  teeth hold the belt in place keeping that tension from getting transferred around the pulley.  If you loosen the set screws, the pulley can turn a little and equalize the tension between the top and bottom of the belts.  I don' know if it actually makes a difference, but it is worth trying.

Also try switching your X and Y stepper drivers and see if you get skips in X.  Maybe it's just a bad driver.