1 (edited by 2n2r5 2013-09-30 21:13:14)

Topic: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

The belts that come stock on the solidoodle are slightly imperfect and have measurable backlash. There are a couple things you can do to the belts to help reduce the backlash (ie. over tighten and firmware hysteresis compensation). I have never been a big fan of putting a band-aid on a problem. At Ian's suggestion, I have been looking into cable drive systems. It looks like the easiest/cheapest solution is to keep the stock pulleys and use a high test, low friction braided fishing line.

80 Lb Power Pro series Spectra line is what I ended up with. Anyone who has gone fishing for marlin or sharks might know the stuff. I didn't go with 80 lb test for the strength. I got it because It was the easiest for me to work with. All of the light gauge stuff is much smaller and less fun to tie knots in.

Pros Vs Cons:

  • Pros:

  • More Accurate since entire surface of the pulley is used to transfer energy. Not just the teeth.

  • Less/no backlash - Once properly tensioned, the cable will have no slack/stretch

  • Cheap Replacement - $34.99 is the total cost of the upgrade. Free if you already have this in your boat or steal it from your rich neighbor who has a boat

    Cons:

  • Can be tough to work with if you have shaky hands or bad eyes

  • Could slip if installed incorrectly - *not enough wraps or too loose

Bill of materials:
[*]High Test fishing line from a sporting goods store[/*]
Optional (If you are replacing the pulleys with bobbins):
[*]M5 Grub Screws (can be found at home depot in the hardware section. Usually in the drawers)[/*]
[*]OpenSCAD File[/*]


How-To:

  • Remove existing Belts from the X and Y axis. Do Not Use this on the Y drive belt from the stepper to the Jack shaft.... Yet.

  • Make a slip knot in your spectra line and cinch it around one bolt. Its best to have the washer on first so that the spectra line can't slip over the head of the bolt.

  • Thread bolt into one side of carriage loosely. Leave lots of space to tension later

  • Wrap thread around the pulley closest to the side that you just threaded the bolt into. Make sure you make 7-8 wraps and that the thread doesn't over lap.

  • Run the thread to the opposite pulley and make 7-8 wraps following the same guidelines as before

  • With the spectral line in place you can now approximate where the slip know should be tied for your other tension bolt. DO NOT CUT THE EXCESS SPECTRA LINE YET.

  • After tying the thread to the second M3 bolt. Hold it in place to ensure line length. Adjust if necessary.

  • Thread the tension bolt into carriage and begin alternating between the 2 tensioning screws to ensure even tension.

  • After all the slack has been taken out of the string, exercise the axis to its extents. This may reveal more slack. Tighten screws further to take up the remaining slack.

  • Repeat the last step until no further slack is found.

  • Cut off excess spectra line.

  • Repeat the process for every belt that you removed

Post's attachments

bobbins.scad 2.38 kb, 30 downloads since 2013-09-28 

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SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

2

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Awesome stuff!

Our great community is pushing the boundaries as always.

3

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

I had thought about this awhile ago, but there are some drawbacks discussed when this guy used it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FP2ciUBT6nY

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

4

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

when this is all hammered out for all the belts I definitely wanna do this to my machine.  This, plus the z axis that is bearings and a smooth linear shaft..

5

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Hazer wrote:

I had thought about this awhile ago, but there are some drawbacks discussed when this guy used it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FP2ciUBT6nY


I haven't really seen to many issues. The Tantillus has been using this system since they started. I notice that some people had concerns about stretching. As soon as you feel the spectra line, you will know that it is not a concern.

Also, the bobbins in that the SCAD file will create are designed to be the same size as the stock pulleys so your steps/mm will be just about dead on depending on your machines setup. I would still recommend calibrating. I was 1.1 steps/mm different than the stock pulleys.However, you DO NOT need to replace the pulleys. I did that on the X-axis simply because I could.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

6

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

I wonder if this is the same material used in Spectra lines for parachutes. Those lines shrink over time due to heat generated by friction.

E3D-v4 Hotend, MK5 carriage with round plastic wire conduit , 3/16" tempered glass,  Well nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, PowerEdge 2650 500W PS, QU-BD heated bed, circuit board fan, hinged plexiglass enclosure with plastic tray top. Other than that mostly stock SD3

7

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Not sure how relevant that is with our relatively short lines. The question for me is cost, longevity, quality of prints and ease of use.

Compared to the belts, the spectra line wins out in all those categories.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

8

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Time to update your sig...

9

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

I am just about out of room. Looks like enough for Dual bowden but not a whole lot else. smile

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

10

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Shazaam!

I am off to Walmart.  I was just chicken to do this and was waiting for someone to tell me it was working.  Well done.

11 (edited by saymo606 2013-10-01 09:13:37)

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

I notice that some people had concerns about stretching.

Nylon/mono filament will stretch, braided - as you used will have zero stretch...  (using it just now in the inmoov robot smile )

12

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

I may have to rebuild my solidoodle with this once my delta is all calibrated and printing.  I have 3 aluminum filament spools that I was going to use on my delta but went with belts instead.

13

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Not to take away from the original post or anything, but I was wondering if using some anti-backlash lead screws would be more accurate. I've read that quite a few people have upgraded to acme lead screws for the Z, but why not do that to all the axis?
Instead of using a screw with such fine pitch as the Z axis, maybe one with the pitch more angled so that it travels farther with less turns?. (Sorry if my terminology is all "screwed," I don't know what I'm talking about most of the time.) But, even if it were slower, I would definitely sacrifice speed for accuracy if it worked. I would think using screws instead of belts would also eliminate all the belt calibration and tension fiasco we have to go through just to get more precise circles. All the corrections would be done through the firmware instead of fiddling with the belts and trying to figure out what an arbitrary word like "twang" means.

I think the fishing line idea is a great alternative to the belts, but it doesn't eliminate the problem of making sure everything is tensioned correctly. Although, it is much more economical to have a few hundred yards of fishing line to replace if anything goes wrong. I just think it's for someone that has much more experience with these machines than the average tinker/designer that wants things to just work.

14

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

MeshMoth wrote:

Not to take away from the original post or anything, but I was wondering if using some anti-backlash lead screws would be more accurate. I've read that quite a few people have upgraded to acme lead screws for the Z, but why not do that to all the axis?
Instead of using a screw with such fine pitch as the Z axis, maybe one with the pitch more angled so that it travels farther with less turns?. (Sorry if my terminology is all "screwed," I don't know what I'm talking about most of the time.) But, even if it were slower, I would definitely sacrifice speed for accuracy if it worked.

Interesting.  It's been brought up before that each axis would be an order of magnitude slower, even though I think the design would be inherently simpler and more precise.  However, I looked it up and I think what you might want is called a "multiple start" (multi-lead) thread for the screw and nut.  A normal screw is cut as a single helix that goes the length of a screw, but you could theoretically have 3 or 4 simultaneous parallel cuts going around, which would multiply the speed of the screw without having to go up to a rod with a ridiculously large diameter.  I'm sure there are machinists on this board who can answer this, but I assume something like this would likely be a custom job.  The only problems I see is that I imagine friction could be a bigger concern with this type of screw, and the effect of any backlash in the screw (if not a ball screw) would seem to be magnified.

15

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

In a completely different direction, I've often wondered about making the mechanical bits really really cheap, but having some sort of feedback system where you spend most of the money (lasers, diffraction gratings, optical sensors, who knows what all sorts of stuff :-) to measure where things actually are. Seems like that could be just as exact without needing precise mechanics and you remove all the tedious need for constant calibration.

16

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Claghorn wrote:

In a completely different direction, I've often wondered about making the mechanical bits really really cheap, but having some sort of feedback system where you spend most of the money (lasers, diffraction gratings, optical sensors, who knows what all sorts of stuff :-) to measure where things actually are. Seems like that could be just as exact without needing precise mechanics and you remove all the tedious need for constant calibration.

I was calibrating my printer one day using a digital caliper when a similar thought occurred to me.  The caliper was cheap enough.  Why not build in accurate measuring devices?

I don't know how well it works because there are not many in the wild but I believe the makibox uses screws for all three axes.

17

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

ACME screws have more backlash than threaded rod, unless your ACME nut is a split delrin anti-backlash type. You guys should know that belts are inherently anti-backlash. What a screw would give you is more precision from giving you more steps/mm than the belt does.

But quite frankly, X/Y precision is not really as much of a problem. It actually exceeds the precision of the width of the extrusion by alot. Laymans terms: X/Y precision of the stepper is much much better than the plastic being gushed out of the nozzle to form perfect, consistent 0.42 mm width. Moire effect can be seen by the eye. Also, extrusion is not perfectly consistent during moves. It is not stopped during straight move ends-to-beginnings, causing that little extra roundness to the corners, and arc movements leave less plastic on the outside of the arc and more plastic on the inside. These issues have more bearing over precision than X/Y movement.

Also, while I agree that having mechanical feedback would be an awesome way to go, currently the controls are not setup for that (and may not be capable of it). The firmware barely keeps up with trying to calculate the movement for the steppers output pulses. It takes quite a bit more math processing to also read a feedback system and then re-apply corrections on-the-fly. This is the difference between raw stepper movement and servo movement. In order to accomplish this, alot of work would have to go into the firmware, and the current processors used by the open source community may not be adequate enough.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

18

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

I have had quite a few people ask me about this in the past couple weeks. For me, it simply isn't worth trying to redesign the solidoodle drive system. If I was to do anything major with the drive system, it would be on a new design.  I have been thinking of a different direct drive system though, still thinking threw the concept but I think it will be pretty cool and work well.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.

19

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Hazer wrote:

ACME screws have more backlash than threaded rod, unless your ACME nut is a split delrin anti-backlash type. You guys should know that belts are inherently anti-backlash. What a screw would give you is more precision from giving you more steps/mm than the belt does.

But quite frankly, X/Y precision is not really as much of a problem. It actually exceeds the precision of the width of the extrusion by alot. Laymans terms: X/Y precision of the stepper is much much better than the plastic being gushed out of the nozzle to form perfect, consistent 0.42 mm width. Moire effect can be seen by the eye. Also, extrusion is not perfectly consistent during moves. It is not stopped during straight move ends-to-beginnings, causing that little extra roundness to the corners, and arc movements leave less plastic on the outside of the arc and more plastic on the inside. These issues have more bearing over precision than X/Y movement.

Also, while I agree that having mechanical feedback would be an awesome way to go, currently the controls are not setup for that (and may not be capable of it). The firmware barely keeps up with trying to calculate the movement for the steppers output pulses. It takes quite a bit more math processing to also read a feedback system and then re-apply corrections on-the-fly. This is the difference between raw stepper movement and servo movement. In order to accomplish this, alot of work would have to go into the firmware, and the current processors used by the open source community may not be adequate enough.

Can you link us some sources on that?
edit: as in links to the sort of math processing your referencing.
SD would love to help port some nice control theory to marlin when we have a second.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

20

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Hazer wrote:

ACME screws have more backlash than threaded rod, unless your ACME nut is a split delrin anti-backlash type.

Acme screws, by virtue of their thread profile offer more contact between the surface of the screw threads and the nut threads.  Since these screws are primarily intended to be used for motion transfer (leadscrew) they are cut to a higher precision and closer tolerance than standard screws/threaded rod.  All this translates into a solution that offer less backlash.

As for the split nut, that's used to reduce wear due to friction, and they're not necessarily made of Delrin.  ACME screws have been around for over 150 years and thermoplastics like Delrin have only been around for less than 1/3 of that time.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

21

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

pirvan wrote:
Hazer wrote:

ACME screws have more backlash than threaded rod, unless your ACME nut is a split delrin anti-backlash type.

Acme screws, by virtue of their thread profile offer more contact between the surface of the screw threads and the nut threads.  Since these screws are primarily intended to be used for motion transfer (leadscrew) they are cut to a higher precision and closer tolerance than standard screws/threaded rod.  All this translates into a solution that offer less backlash.

As for the split nut, that's used to reduce wear due to friction, and they're not necessarily made of Delrin.  ACME screws have been around for over 150 years and thermoplastics like Delrin have only been around for less than 1/3 of that time.

Yes, they are more precise. Precisely made to have backlash:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezoidal_thread_forms

This adds the requirement that the sum of the allowances and tolerances on the major diameters of nut and bolt be less than the sum of the allowances on the pitch diameters (PD);

The thread form shown in the figure is called basic; the actual thread heights on both the internal (nut) and external (bolt) threads differ from P/2 by the difference between two allowances (or clearances): (1) a root-crest clearance between opposing threads of 0.01-in. minimum evenly-distributed clearance for 10 or less threads-per-inch pitches, 0.005-in. for finer pitches (this is also true for the minor diameters of the Cent. Acme thread, though not its major diameters, where the allowance is made less than the PD allowance); and (2) a PD allowance, small compared to the first in the case of the GP & external Cent. Acme threads, but greater in the case of the internal Cent. Acme thread. The net effect is that the minimum thread heights are greater than basic for the internal and external GP and for the external Cent., and the maximum height is shorter than basic for the internal Cent., Acme threads. The maximum diameter (within tolerance) at the crest of the screw threads, called the max major diameter of external thread, is that of the basic thread form and equals the "nominal diameter," D, stated in the screw's designation; the minimum diameter (within tolerance) at the crest of the nut thread, called the min minor diameter of internal thread, is that of the basic thread form and equals the nominal diameter minus twice the basic thread height, i.e., D - P.

To put it simply, the cross section of the threads are triangles with the tips cut off. The threads on the rod will purposely have a smaller diameter than the threads on the nut to ensure that there will be clearance for the rod to smoothly screw in. This tolerance means you are guaranteed to have a specific amount of backlash (actually, a precise amount of backlash). If you have ever worked on a manual mill table, you would know this. Heck, my vice is the same way, it requires a little bit of reverse travel before re-engaging the threads.

As for the split nut, that's used to reduce wear due to friction, and they're not necessarily made of Delrin.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=delrin+acme+anti-backlash+nut

Thats what I was talking about. Not a standard ACME nut.

Can you link us some sources on that?
edit: as in links to the sort of math processing your referencing.
SD would love to help port some nice control theory to marlin when we have a second.

I have looked through the Marlin firmware and seen how the stepper pulses are generated. Although I am impressed that they were able to get the pulses derived from long integer  math for up to 6 steppers simultaneously using the hardware interupt, it is still an 8 bit processor running at 16MHz. Lets not forget it is processing USB serial commands and PID floating point math. Add SD card reading and LCD control, and the firmware even says it is pushing the limits.

In order to get a servo system, you need complex floating point math.

http://origin-ars.els-cdn.com/content/image/1-s2.0-S0967066109000306-gr3.jpg

This would require constant monitoring of each axis with a comparison of its current actual position (read at the same frequency comparable to the stepper pulse frequency) with that of the expected position (something the firmware does not do, it just times out microseconds for each pulse in hardware interupt) and then compute not only the difference, but the required change in stepper pulse math to 'catch up' in a reasonable manner during the move itself. And be able to do this for a minimum of 4 steppers simultaneously.

Thats too much for an 8 bit processor. Most servo systems I have ever worked on have a central processor that communicates a 'move' to a drive. The drive controls a single motor and houses its own 32 bit processor to perform the feedback and math.

While it is viable for an 8 bit processor to have a constant feedback (possibly serial communication with the $10 china scale, or even an encoder strip used widely by professional inkjet printers (transparent strip with really tiny lines printed on it, and an mouse opto sensor reads how many lines go by)) and be able to adjust a ramp indexed stepper movement, it would be able to do so for only one axis while still trying to do other functions. Not 4 or more axis at the same time. Too many math cycles during each stepper pulse. Remember, it has to get the feedback value, do the math to figure out where it should be during the move, calculate the difference, then apply the floating point math to re-adjust the velocity of the move and apply the new stepper pulse all during the time it takes for one pulse. For 4 to 6 motors.

In order to get to this level, you would need a 32-bit processor, preferably one with an FPU to reduce math processing cycles. Then you may be able to get this working.

Chuck Bittner is a quadriplegic gamer who is petitioning the major console developers to include internal button remapping in all console games. You can help.
Sign Chuck Bittners petition

22 (edited by elmoret 2013-10-11 05:11:52)

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Hazer wrote:

In order to get a servo system, you need complex floating point math.

I disagree. Integers are fine for PID.

Hazer wrote:

Thats too much for an 8 bit processor.

I disagree again.

You can implement SISO PID on a Arduino with ~0.21ms loop times. You can do even better if you don't need an analog read - like if you used an encoder instead. Even driving all three axes, the extruder, bed, and serial port, you should have <0.5mS loop times. By the way, Marlin can do 30khz step rates. You definitely don't need to go that fast!

I would argue that the problem is more one of motor/gearbox quality. Cheap gearboxes have significant backlash. Simply, the drawbacks of servos vs steppers are tuning, and costs.

Tuning: Things change. On printers with a moving bed, the mass changes. Over time, the bearings wear. Belts stretch. Basically, the transfer function of the plant changes. Now you're re-tuning the controller, just like when you change hotends. With steppers as long as the load torque is less than the available torque, you'll go to the same place every move.

Costs: A stepper driver and stepper motor are <$20. You can't really get a DC motor driver, quality geared DC motor, and encoder for <$20.

23

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Hazer wrote:

ACME screws have more backlash than threaded rod, unless your ACME nut is a split delrin anti-backlash type. You guys should know that belts are inherently anti-backlash. What a screw would give you is more precision from giving you more steps/mm than the belt does.

But quite frankly, X/Y precision is not really as much of a problem. It actually exceeds the precision of the width of the extrusion by alot. Laymans terms: X/Y precision of the stepper is much much better than the plastic being gushed out of the nozzle to form perfect, consistent 0.42 mm width. Moire effect can be seen by the eye. Also, extrusion is not perfectly consistent during moves. It is not stopped during straight move ends-to-beginnings, causing that little extra roundness to the corners, and arc movements leave less plastic on the outside of the arc and more plastic on the inside. These issues have more bearing over precision than X/Y movement.

I personally think the X/Y precision is a big problem on my printer. All my circular objects come out as skewed ovals. Maybe yours was calibrated correctly from the factory or you know how to calibrate the belts yourself, but for people with less luck and/or knowledge, it's a huge nightmare. I've spent countless days trying to get the belts tensioned right with no real progress.

The extruder may not be perfect, but within 3 days of receiving my printer, I got it close enough to where I can say that I am satisfied with how the parts turn out. I don't think any FDM printer can ever have perfectly sharp corners or have perfectly precise walls. It's using melted plastic as a medium and not something more accurate like wax, resin or calibrated powdered materials.

Inaccuracies of the extruder are probably a few microns to a mm if dialed in well enough, but the slop from my belts make my parts off by 3-5 mm some times.

24

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Nice, this looks easy enough to do. Ebay sells the fishing line for like $5 free shipping. Can you just reuse the geared pullys if you dont want to print the bobbins?

25 (edited by muddtt 2013-10-15 17:24:01)

Re: Beltless Drive X-Y Axis (Level 2 - Techie)

Any updates on how this has been working for you? Has anyne else done this fishing line mod yet? How has it been working out for you?

I'm wondering if its better to go this route or gt2 belts.