Prints curling up

You should be running a bed temp of 100.
Also make sure your "Temperature" settings in Skeinforge are set to 200. Mine were set to 190 by default and even when I manually set the extruder temp to 200 it would drop the extruder temp to 190. After changing the Skeinforge temp settings to 200 now the extruder would stay around 200 unless it was running the cool setting in that part of the print, which I have set to 5 in Skeinforge.
I also had layer separation issues when my extruder temp was 190.

I just had one that is hockey puck shaped where the bottom half is hollow with a 3mm wall, and then there is a chamfer inside leading into the top half which had something like a .4 infill.  I had a slight crack in the side around the area where it changed from hollow to filled.  The filled section with all of its extra plastic exerted a much greater pull from the shrinkage than the hollow area.

One strategy to combat warping, if your design allows, is to add holes in the bottom layers and filled areas so that there is no point where a line can be drawn all the way across the part without hitting a gap.  That limits the amount of force that can be exerted from one side to the other by shrinking plastic.

I was wondering if increasing the flow rates by a tiny amount would help with shrinkage. yet to find out..

I am still coming to grips with skeinforge settings, I am not sure exactly what to adjust .. things do not always seem to act the way you think and the only flow rate calibrations I can find for solidoodle on the official wiki are for slic3r, wtf .. thought skeinforge and pronterface was the one to use.
I found a description on lawzys (I think .. ?) blog with descriptions of D/T and W/T but my skeinforge does not seem to have the specific values to change as per the blog ..

the 2.1 setting for flow rate .. I am guessing thats the main one and will adjust everything accordingly..

for instance .. I have printed a few of these, the early ones all had holes visible, printing as more of a mesh, increasing 
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16621

now I increased the /raft/base flow rate multiplier from 1.00 to 1.03 and it seemed to make things worse, the diagonal fill lines ending up to 1mm from the drawn perimeter, the perimeter can be easily split away after printing .. thinking it went the other way I then changed it to 0.97 and that seemed to fix it mostly .. gah, baffled

I have come close to reinstalling skeinforge after just turning the raft off it started printing 0.5mm above the bed. lol.

I will persevere, my printing computer decided it was time to die this morning, so reinstalling everything on another computer will give me the opportunity to start from scratch following solidoodles instructions to the letter.
I will let you know how it goes..

my challenge is to get prints with no raft to stick as well ..

I know all the info is online somewhere, just so much to wade through and learn, all fun.

.. just fixed my printing computer, added a spacer under the spacer under the motherboard under the video card, cheap cases are a pain..

hehe, sorry Ian, what the hell, their is so many people in this community who all deserve so much vredit its amazing

well, I just installed repetier host, followed Ians setup videos to the letter, wondering why I did not do this 3 days ago.
Only reason I did not try it, I was unable to do the firmware upgrade and thought there was some sort of incomaptibililty with  the stock hardware, seems fine so far..

First print is running at the moment, but it looks freaking awesome, so much more intuitive than skeinforge..
its sticking to the bed, no raft, no corners lifting,
first attempt it had no stick at all .. so just set first layer height to 70%, wow, how easy is that.
filament to 1.72mm, extruded width to 0.42mm ..

I think this is a whole new ball game.

20mm test cube .. first print, no raft, stuck like the proverbial to the blanket (i did also my first wipe with acetone, perhaps that did the job)

x 20.41mm x y 20.13mm x z 20.25mm ..

i am really impressed, enough that I may just delete skeinforge and pronterface right now, I see no further need for it..

We're both in oz so maybe one day we'll have one together.

In regards to you ditching pronterface/skeinforge, I've used it for one print ever, and that was just to double check something with my firmware. I'm frustrated seeing people asking questions about how to use it when Repetier-Host with Slic3r (and Skeinforge) is such a vastly superior package.

The sooner it is officially adopted the better.

I've had that same trouble where a setting changes back after saving the preset. Try pressing the up/down buttons instead of typing in the value. It's very frustrating.

Sometimes changing the name of the profile gets it to stick.  Sometimes not.

I printed the whole thing again:

This one is definitely better, but still has splitting/warping.

This time:
Using ABS from Amazon
Extruder at 210
Bed at 100
Sides and front covered

The big problem I'm seeing (with an IR gun) is after about 2" have been deposited, the thermal gradient looks like this, from top to bottom:

190C (top layer)
35C (middle layer)
75C (bottom layers)

Which of course, leads to warping.

I could print each wall of the box individually of course, but I'd like to be able to print fullsize.

Those are great ideas.

There's definitely some z-axis wobble. Also, the non-motor carriage of the Y-axis is broken, thanks to UPS. I'm going on a month now, waiting for a new part from SD. Right now half of the x-axis is held up by a zip tie.

How are people fixing the z-wobble?

I'm definitely cooling the electronics board. Very surprised SD doesn't include a $2 fan and $0.10 printed cover.