1 Topic by t.servida

  • t.servida
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Topic: Calibration required?

I just received my new Solidoodle and i've made few simple printouts...

In one case i've simply printout a cilinder with external diameter of 16 mm and with an internal hole of 7 mm.
Actually it is not a circle but it is possible to clearly see an error of about 1 mm making it looking more like a square with "rounded off" sides.
It looks to me like some form of calibration may be required but i dont know what to do...

May i ask also 2 other questions:

--- How can i turn off craft? and while printing ABS at what temperature i need to keep the bed for good sticking?

--- I need to totally fill internal volume of some prints because i need to have them water proof and water pressure resistant.Is it possible to get some explanation about what are the relevant setting or also better a printing profile file already good for the purpose?

While i've read almost all forum in order to "get inside" the Solidoodle i've seen the topic related to the use of Acetone for smooting the printed surface.
I've then made a test with PVC thinner that looks to be very quick while leaving after dry a very gloss and neat surface.
PVC thinner is a cheap liquid that can be easily found easily in any shop selling PVC fitting for glue assembling.

I will go on with other test and printing but it looks that could be easy to put togheter a siimple vapuor bath with a double peltier element for cooling and a resistor for heating maybe using the case of a ventilated owen that can be found for a cheap price.

Best regards

Tullio

2 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Calibration required?

For a discussion on interior holes and 3D printing, check out this post - http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2011/02/polyholes.html

For better sticking, try setting the bed closer to the nozzle (loosed the screw on the back of the case 1/4 turn) - http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … st-layers/

Set the heat to 200-205, maybe set the first layer to print slower.  You can also make the bed more sticky by spreading some acetone with a little plastic melted in it, or spraying it with hairspray.

To make a part water proof, it is more important to have plenty of perimeters (shells) and maybe 4+ solid layers.  I don't know how much fill is required for the needed strength, probably less that 100%.  However more fill provides better support for the solid layers on top.

3 Reply by t.servida

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Re: Calibration required?

Tank you very much for both link that are very interesting, so it looks i have to go back in the CAD to fix the problem.

May i ask a very simple question? Where shall i set the bed temperature? I think in the .ini file but looks to me that is missing in the web site some form of "beginners" documentation...

Tullio

4 Reply by jooshs

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Re: Calibration required?

I am wondering what you mean by water pressure resistant?  Will parts be submerged deep under water or just at the surface or do you mean water pressure will build up on the inside. These abs layers work pretty well under compression, but not very well under tension.  Water on the outside putting it in compression is pretty easy to deal with and smoothing or painting it with acetone and using extra external perimeters should be enough, but if pressure is building up on the inside anywhere, you will have to design a little differently depending on the application.

5 Reply by IanJohnson

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Re: Calibration required?

Check the other posts at my blog (the Solidoodletips link).    I put it together because I knew Solidoodle didn't have very good beginner documentation, and I was one of the first to receive a printer.  Here is an overview of the Skeinforge settings that I did - http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … -settings/

6 Reply by t.servida

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Re: Calibration required?

i have another stupid question i'm sorry for that...
I try to printout the "holes" template to see how it is with my printer and i'm not able to do it because i have 2 problems:

--- i dont know how to "center" it and is partly going outside printer plate

--- at the same time if i turn off raft the ABS does not stick at all

???

Tank you

Tullio

7 Reply by t.servida

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Re: Calibration required?

About pressure, yes i will have pressure from inside but my question is about having simply "solid" walls...

8 Reply by jooshs

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Re: Calibration required?

It sounds like you are trying to make a structural component to a certain degree of precision. If you want your printer to perform to that degree it is really necessary to do some calibration. You really should go to Ian's solidoodletips. Just scroll all the way to the bottom and follow it seep by step through each blog. The part on using slic3r or replicator G will help you center and orient prints. All of these questions are answered and more. This will make your life a lot easier and prints much better than asking a new question every time this stuff comes up. Also, pay extra attention to reinforcing those walls, even if they are solid, possibly with strips along the inside perimeter to avoid them shearing apart. Definitely let us know how it goes after calibration.

9 Reply by t.servida

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Re: Calibration required?

i will follow your suggestion, actually is what i'm already doing and as firt point i will upgrade firmware and go for Repetier

tank you

Tullio