Cleaning out a clogged nozzle with poking it with a wire doesn't work (Page 2 of 3)

Wow given how easily it clogs and I only got 3 prints done before filament feeder clogged Solidoodle really should make it easier to get to the filament area. I have spent 2 hours on this and am halfway through taking it apart.

I finally after hours got it going. I am trying to print that replacement now. Thanks

Oh it clogged again the next day. So I went with the mk4 in place of the acrylic one. Fortunally I printed it out before it clogged again.

I have not yet put a filament cleaner/ filament dust remover on it.

Wow, thanks for sharing. Never thought of doing that. Great idea.

I just used the torch method. Man that is awesome!

Also, the drill method is nice.

There was a nice customer who informed by the cleaning cycle in a self cleaning oven does wonders. Perhaps someone should give it a shot.

So I thought I would tell everyone what I do to clean my nozzle when the the nozzle gets a little plugged and the extruder starts making the clicking noise.

1.I'll pause my print (yes I do this quick during a print.)

2. Move Extruder Head to home position.
3.Pull out my Diesel Injector Cleaning kit. (It is a kit for engines at is designed to push carbon and gunk off of the injectors in the motor/head.) It comes with wires of different sizes and a tool to hold them. I push the proper  wire up the nozzle while its in the home position I can do it when the print bed is at any level.

4. Extrude 50-100 cm of plastic from nozzle
5. Move the print bed down
6. Click resume and hope that printing works better.  IF not repeat and extrude even more plastic.

Some times I've had to use a heavy wire (thickness similar to filament  to push from the top to get plastic to move through the nozzle if I let the jam/clicking noise go on too long.

I had a clog that resulted in melted PLA traveling up the PEEK into the acrylic jigsaw (and subsequently cooling). which required dismantling the jigsaw.

I've cleared a few clogs by removing the barrel from the PEEK and holding it upside down by the nozzle with a pair of pliers while heating it up. I also had to screw in the PEEK while the barrel was hot to get it not to leak.

And I also eventually melted my PEEK from doing this sort of clog removal and reassembly.

When it works, the guitar string method is great.  Unfortunately, it doesn't always work.

I have an E3D on the way.

So yesterday my nozzle clogged, and poking it with a wire did not help at all.

I'm fairly certain the oven/blowtorch method is required in this situation.  I started to disassemble the extruder, however, unlike Ian's screws facing outward, mine are in the carriage backward, with nuts on the outward end.  Unfortunately, when I try to turn the nuts, the screws turn along with them making no progress.  I tried the official solidoodle video to remove/ replace the hot end, but my screws holding the wooden insulator were too long for it to fit below and slide out, hence the need for extruder disassembly.  How do you remove these nuts?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Excellent tip! Thanks!

torch tip cleaners work the best of anything. pretty cheap and very efficient without having to tear anything up. they come in all sizes and usually with a little pen to hold them. Try that