1 Topic by m_lemmi

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Topic: Mauricio from Japan :-)

Hi guys!
I`m new on this and came here to learn from experienced users. I still in the phase of decide what to buy and honestly Im surprised about so many details i learned last days what i never thought about.
All my life i bought thing by impulsive decisions to next realize i dont need or was not the right choice of model/purpose. This time i want to do different :-) probably i am getting old! haha
I could use some help hints for beginners: 1st printer which brand gives less deceptions! XD
My interest in 3D printing is for mechanical parts and custom designed products, not for action figures because i suck in painting...
From what i read, probably filament printer will not have use for engines parts (please enlighten me if i am wrong) but I`m also not sure if this purpose fit to resins.
There`s a topic somewhere in this forum?
thanks to all

2 Reply by Tin Falcon

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

Greetings and salutations, welcome to the forum.
Have been 3d printing for 6 years and about 6 months research beyond that. and still learning every day.

I could use some help hints for beginners: 1st printer which brand gives less deceptions!

stick to popular name brands Monoprice and crealty are both decent  have a good customer base parts available etc.
IMHO the style the the bed only moves in the z axis is a bit more stable. That said i have the prusa style as well and the do work.
The monoprice ultimate maker is not talked about much but IMHO is a good value

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id= … a10a240613

Built very solid  the relay on the board is a bit under rated and has caused some issues in the past for others.
it is virtually the same as the wanhoau duplicator 6.
I have an open box modal the bed level routine does not work . but just manually level the bed and no worries.`

I also have an ender 3  I tried loading a boot loader to no avail seriously thinking about adding a 32 bit card to it,.
Not a bad printer and prints pretty much out of the box with an hour or two of assembly and tuning.

If you are the mechanical type a kit printer or semi kit can save few dollars.
If you have the bucks you can not go wrong with the prussa. A bit more money but have never heard a complaint.

As far as designing mechanical parts fusion 360 is hard to beat. Is currently free with some limits built in.

there are several 3d printable designs for model steam engines have printed a couple but not have been able to get them to run.

The way to go could be to use a 3d printer to create casting patterns then sand cast the part. Or print with wax then investment cast. These finished casting would likely need some machining /post processing.

A resin printer is generally smaller, you get better detail. But weaker more brittle  prints.

With resin you need to post process the part by washing in alcohol l then curing under uv light.

again you can get special resin appropriate for lost wax casting. The resin printers are greart for jewelry desiners. and makers of small figurines

Hopefully this helped. there are so many printers out there and a 3d printer is a personal purchase investment.
Ultimately your call your dime.

IMHO do not even think about Davinci products. They have no customer support. there are so many better product out there for less money.


Check out the CHEP YouTube channel as well as Teaching tech. They will get you even more confused than I just did LOL   Not really but there is so much to learn

Hope this helps you in your decision.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

3 Reply by m_lemmi (edited by m_lemmi 2020-10-11 14:41:01)

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

thank you very much! Every information helps a lot! I`m about to jump in a boat without compass...hahaha!
that first types you mentioned are filament, right? filament products can resist to what temperature?

4 Reply by Tin Falcon

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

filament products can resist to what temperature?

It all depends on what type of filament you purchase
Wax
PLA
abs
PETG
ASA
TPU
nylon
Ultimately all plastics will melt.  That is why I suggested making patterns with a printer then casting metal.

Nylon is likely the best engineering type material but still melts . You need it dead dry and a modified printer. to print with .
Most standard hot ends are safe to about 240 c. an all metal will get you to 300c you need a special thermistor to get to 400c. also the higher temp  you print the more danger of fire. Also you need modified firmware to safely reach these temps. Doable buy not exactly  newbie friendly.
There are many options  for 3d printing filament
some of the exotics are quite expensive

for instance Dupont ZYtel fiberglass reinforced nylon is $95 a roll.

https://coexllc.com/products/3d-filamen … tel-glass/

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

5 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

Tin Falcon wrote:

filament products can resist to what temperature?

It all depends on what type of filament you purchase
Wax
PLA
abs
PETG
ASA
TPU
nylon
Ultimately all plastics will melt.  That is why I suggested making patterns with a printer then casting metal.

Nylon is likely the best engineering type material but still melts . You need it dead dry and a modified printer. to print with .
Most standard hot ends are safe to about 240 c. an all metal will get you to 300c you need a special thermistor to get to 400c. also the higher temp  you print the more danger of fire. Also you need modified firmware to safely reach these temps. Doable buy not exactly  newbie friendly.
There are many options  for 3d printing filament
some of the exotics are quite expensive

for instance Dupont ZYtel fiberglass reinforced nylon is $95 a roll.

https://coexllc.com/products/3d-filamen … tel-glass/

That is cheap compared to the new metal stuff. That stuff is $450 a roll plus $50 for each print you want to send in to be debinded.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

6 Reply by m_lemmi (edited by m_lemmi 2020-10-12 04:17:41)

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

Prusa is a good shot for a beginner ? or because it is top notch requires better knowledge ? In my area there are no mucho options to buy from amazon: prusa, ender, anycubic, tronxy,davinci and qidi. Despite of price, seems to have a very fine quality printing and good range of materials. the bad part is wait 8 weeks to receive.
I read prusa can use nylon (which probably can be used safely to my purpose) but not sure for other brands.
Monoprice is interesting but nylon is not in their list of materials.

7 Reply by Tin Falcon (edited by Tin Falcon 2020-10-12 20:56:18)

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

IMHO the prusa is a fine choice for any one in 3d printing.
excellent  company excellent support. ect
They are busy so one often has to be patient.

IF you print nylon you will need an enclosure, a way to dry the material and a sealed box to print it from
https://www.simplify3d.com/support/mate … ide/nylon/

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

8 Reply by Tin Falcon

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

take a look here food for thought

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

9 Reply by heartless

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

The material chosen should depend on the job it will be doing.

if you are printing knick knacks, then pla is probably fine.

All other items, you need to determine the best material for the job.
No single material is going to do all things well.

Each has it's own unique characteristics, strong and weak points..

It is up to the user to decide which material is going to best suit the needs of the project.

Nylon may not be the best answer in some situations. Likewise, PETg, ABS, ASA, etc..

Things to consider when choosing a material
What is the item's purpose?
How will it be used?
Does it need tensile strength?
Or compression strength?
Will it see extreme temps?
Will it come into contact with chemicals? (ie: oil, gas, trans fluids, other chemicals?)

All of these things, and more, need to be considered when choosing a material for a specific application.

Also.. if you are wanting to do things like ABS, ASA, Nylons, etc.. you WILL want an enclosure - which the Prusa machine does not have, nor is it a simple thing to make one for it.. because of its motion, you have to make sure you have enough clearance around it.

There are better options out there than those damned prusa style bed slingers.. (obviously, not a fan) Sure, they are cheap to buy, because they are cheap to make, and not particularly the most stable things. Check any forum you want, people are constantly needing to modify for stability - braces, supports, etc.
I don't know about you, but I just want to print stuff, not constantly address issues with the printer

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

10 Reply by Tin Falcon (edited by Tin Falcon 2020-10-14 20:53:45)

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

My interest in 3D printing is for mechanical parts and custom designed products,

The OP clearly stated his intended use.

Enclosure kits are readily available.
https://www.printedsolid.com/collection … e-printers

Look hard into PETG this is the material that  Prusa uses in there print farm to print 3d printer parts.

If prusa style printers are so bad how come they are IIRC the number one selling style of printer on the market? 
Not saying they are the best choice for everyone. My printers are a bout a 50/50 split between some sort of prusa variant and Cartesian.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

11 Reply by heartless

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Re: Mauricio from Japan :-)

Tin Falcon wrote:

My interest in 3D printing is for mechanical parts and custom designed products,

The OP clearly stated his intended use.

Enclosure kits are readily available.
https://www.printedsolid.com/collection … e-printers

Look hard into PETG this is the material that  Prusa uses in there print farm to print 3d printer parts.

If prusa style printers are so bad how come they are IIRC the number one selling style of printer on the market? 
Not saying they are the best choice for everyone. My printers are a bout a 50/50 split between some sort of prusa variant and Cartesian.

Again.. material choice should be based on the intended use of a given item - there are many different applications & definitions of "mechanical parts" - one size does not fit all, one material does not fit all.
PETg is good for a lot of things, but NOT everything.

As to why are prussa style printers are so popular.. I have no idea. People don't know any better? good marketing? The most likely #1 reason, however, is price... they are cheap - in more ways than just the cost to purchase. People need to wake up to the fact that "cheap" does NOT equal "good" - in anything!
Enclosure kits = more cost + time to assemble... why not spend the money right and purchase a quality machine that is already enclosed?

There is a reason that high end machines cost more - structural stability, reliability, quality parts (motors, moving parts, heated parts and the software to make it all work already tweaked & debugged for you).. all of these things cost more. And then there is customer service & support as well - also a cost consideration. Most prussa style machines do not have that kind of support from the manufacturer...

If you are serious about making accurate, functional parts, then i do not recommend a prussa style printer. Period.

my current stable is pretty much all cartesian with one corexy - the PrintIt Horizon - and of them all, the Horizon is far and away the most stable structurally and operationally. The FT-5 would be next and then the SD4s.

That said, the ones I use the most are the SD4s, simply from the standpoint that they are the easiest to use in a production setting, and after the work* put into them, very, very reliable.

It should also be noted that I have owned both a prussa i3 style, and a delta/kossel style in the past.. both are gone now because they were not nearly as reliable (i3) or easy to use (kossel).. the kossel did turn out some beautiful prints, but holy cow, what a pain to set up!

(* the work put into them was the Lawsy bearing carriages & rods for smoother movement, upgraded hotends for more material versatility, and a more stable heated bed platform - no more warping. the SD4s are now what they should have been from the beginning. SD had a good idea, they just did not implement it well.)

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1