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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → 3D Printer Discussion → What tools do you suggested to those new to 3D Printers?
Ok, I have been printing with FDM 3d printer for over a year and I have found a number of useful tools.
Allen Wrenches: A good set are essential to repairing and building your printer. Metric Allen wrenches are a must. Forget those cheapos and buy a good set. I like the magnetic ones. If you do now know why you soon will.
I am excited to see your suggestions.
Some tools I use in conjunction with my 3D prints:
When printing on a rigid build surface the best print removal tool I have found is the BuildTak BT30185 Spatula / Scraper
https://www.buildtak.com/product/buildt … mp;slide=0
Sometimes when printing some plastic is left on the build surface; using a plastic razor blade scraper makes easy work of removing these bits or to sometimes get under the edge of a print to get a spatula under for removal.
2PCS Plastic Razor Scrapers Knife with Contoured Grip + 100 PCS 1.5 inch Refillable Double Edge Plastic Razor Blades
https://www.amazon.com/FOSHIO-Scrapers- … amp;sr=8-5
Clean your nozzle with a copper brush; turn the power off once at temperature to prevent any shorting while cleaning.
3D Printer Nozzle Cleaning Copper Wire Toothbrush
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XN … 1RA8QPV9DA
Hex Head Metric Drill Bit Set (10 PACK WITH STORAGE CASE) - Magnetic Tips
https://www.amazon.com/Head-Metric-Dril … amp;sr=8-3
10 Piece Metric Combination Ignition Wrench Set; if they are made in USA set available even better. Great for nozzles and all the little metric nuts your projects might use.
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-9-4233 … mp;sr=8-11
Digital Multi-meter is a must for troubleshooting; the INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multi-meter is a great value and even tests batteries. Always remove power when testing resistance or continuity to prevent any damage to they printer. 
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto … amp;sr=8-5
Do not clean the nozzle with a metal brush while power is applied. It will blow the 12 volt surface mount fuse on the mainboard and it is a paint to replace. Heat the nozzle the turn off the power and clean while still hot.
Plastic razor blades. That's really cool Carl.
I would add a digital caliper to the list. Invaluable for calibration tasks.
I have a set of needle files that are helpful to clean up small prints.
I got this out of my wife's kitchen drawer.
https://www.amazon.com/OXO-Grips-Small- … amp;sr=1-2
Do not clean the nozzle with a metal brush while power is applied. It will blow the 12 volt surface mount fuse on the mainboard and it is a paint to replace. Heat the nozzle the turn off the power and clean while still hot.
That ^^^
or better yet, just get a stiff toothbrush.. no metal involved, no worries.
Interestingly, I found several tool kits on Amazon.
Tool kits:
They are the expensive side but appear to be a good choice if you are just starting out.
expensive for cheap crap. don't buy these "kits" for the convenience of them. Seriously.
assemble your own kit of quality tools that will last.
for calipers, I personally recommend these: EZ-Cal by iGaging
RC car tool kits usually have all of the actual tools you might need at around $25 for a basic set - hex drivers, screw drivers, some even have wrenches.. add a good pair of needle nose pliers and you should be in good shape.
hobby knives are easy to come by and also relatively cheap.
and for the love of God, DO NOT use metal brushes on your nozzles!!!!!!
you are just asking for trouble doing that.
get a cheap toothbrush.
I have to agree with Heartless on this one.
The Chinese have a way of manufacturing and marketing tool shaped objects that are useless and the shape is often not even there.
Many of the components of these kits can be picked up at the dollar store. Yes that quality.
If you are committed to this hobby get the best tools you can afford and store them where you can find them.
There are many styles of Allen keys all have advantages and disadvantages. WiHa brand and bondus both work well.
also i suggest that one not shop for tools mail order it is difficult to evaluate fit and finish of the tool from a photo. That is if the seller is even shipping the tool that is pictured.
Also impossible to know how the tool fits in the hand.
Most stores even Harbor freight sells multiple tool quality levels.
The quality of Chinese imports has improved and harbor freight now has a lifetime warranty and they will replace broken tools as will home depot husky brand and Lowes Kobalt and Craftsman .
There is nothing more frustrating than fighting to get tools to work.
and for the love of God, DO NOT use metal brushes on your nozzles!!!!!!
you are just asking for trouble doing that.
get a cheap toothbrush.
Please elaborate. What does it do? I have been doingiti for 3 years without a problem.
Every time you use a metal brush you run the risk of shorting the hotend out.
Yes, it can be done IF done carefully, but that one time you are in a hurry, that is when it will get you.
there are many cases of a certain brand being killed by using the supplied metal brush on the nozzles.. google it
use a stiff bristle toothbrush and you wont short anything.
As Heartless said there is a very real risk of damaging something. The problem with printers is that the logic switches ground instead of power. So as long as the machine is on there is power at every component in reference to ground. On some machines the heatblock could be ground so when you are using the wire brush if it hits an exposed lead on the heater and the block at the same time it will short power to ground. At best it does nothing but a reset. It could however blow a fuse or worse blow a MOSFET.
I really like this multimeter. It is less than $25 and works for what I need. A multimeter is a must!
Every kit should have a nozzle cleaner:
I found this little nozzle cleaner essential to keep my nozzles clean. It is easy to use and keeps my hands away from the heat.
If you prefer there are also acupuncture needles.
this metal brush issue must be a E3D hot end thing as the old printers used external heaters like original SD2,3,4 and I used very thin phosphor bronze rods from local hobby store to clear my old SD2 nozzles while hot as no internal electric only the soft plastic sleeve to consider
this metal brush issue must be a E3D hot end thing as the old printers used external heaters like original SD2,3,4 and I used very thin phosphor bronze rods from local hobby store to clear my old SD2 nozzles while hot as no internal electric only the soft plastic sleeve to consider
no actually there was a very specific brand/model being sold with a metal brush and shortly after that practice started there were all sorts of problems being reported.
For the record, it was NOT SD.
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