1 (edited by cyberfez 2020-01-05 14:54:15)

Topic: Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

I had an issue where intermittently the y-axis was skipping a fraction of a mm. It was making my life a bit of a hell. So I read up that maybe i should check the voltages on the trims. I did this for the offending y-axis and after that the controller is not sending commands to the motors. I dont remember hitting anything with the multimeter probs etc. It connects to the usb fine and reports on screen (repertier) that it is connected to the printer and even the firmware msg gets written to screen. The laptop detects fine. connects fine. I hit the home command to send the printhead to its zero position and nothing happens.

The  led is lit on the mobo.

no smell of magic smoke or anything.

here is a video of the original issue - https://youtu.be/NtxZoumyfes

What should I try next? What usually blows in them?

If I am up for a new mobo - what will drop straight into my Solidoodle 3?

Here are the images of my mobo.

http://soliforum.com/i/?o0eIrmT.jpg
http://soliforum.com/i/?a14j908.jpg

Cyberfez

2

Re: Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

there is pretty much nothing that will "drop straight in", aside from another of that exact board, which are mostly nonexistent.
you are going to have to do a little work no matter what you end up with - mainly because of the connectors used on this.

My personal choice is still a genuine Rumba, but there are a multitude of others out there.

whatever you decide, do your homework, and buy from a reputable source - somewhere that offers some kind of guarantee/warranty for the potential doa.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

3 (edited by carl_m1968 2020-01-05 16:30:36)

Re: Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

Could it be possible you set the vref too low? Do the other axis still work? The trumpets if turned too far will go back to the low side. They do not have stops.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

4

Re: Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

No commands are going to any motors, fans, heatbed or extruder.
All I did was check voltage as  per this pic.

http://soliforum.com/i/?GDpZyph.jpg

then nothing worked.

5

Re: Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

This board looks like it would just drop into place. Thoughts? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1570855 … b201603_53

6

Re: Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

1. Geeetech anything is usually garbage. made with the cheapest components that can be found, assembled by what amounts to slave labor.

2. cheap stuff is just that - CHEAP. it will not last. If you are ok with replacing every 6mos to maybe a year, go ahead. If you want to only do it once and be done with it, be prepared to spend a little more.

3. if you want quality parts, do not shop on Aliexpress.

4. not sure where you got that pic for checking voltage, but it is definitely the wrong way of doing it, which is most likely why you are now looking for a replacement.

so, i have two SD4s running the Rumba board i linked above. They have been running on said boards for several years, trouble free. The one has more than 2000 hrs of print time and still going strong. the 2nd one is probably around 1200 print hours. Both are reliable workhorses.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

7 (edited by cyberfez 2020-01-24 03:25:50)

Re: Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

1. Geeetech anything is usually garbage. made with the cheapest components that can be found, assembled by what amounts to slave labor.

You are probably right in regards to the slave labor thing but I have bought great quality stuff from chinese suppliers.

2. cheap stuff is just that - CHEAP. it will not last. If you are ok with replacing every 6mos to maybe a year, go ahead. If you want to only do it once and be done with it, be prepared to spend a little more.

I was just trying to find the family of board that the Rev:E is compatible with and this board looks practically the same except may be the connectors. That is why I was looking at it. Not because it was cheap.

3. if you want quality parts, do not shop on Aliexpress.

Point taken but again i have bought some great quality stuff through that site.

4. not sure where you got that pic for checking voltage, but it is definitely the wrong way of doing it, which is most likely why you are now looking for a replacement.

http://wiki.solidoodle.com/multimeter-testing here is where I got that image.

so, i have two SD4s running the Rumba board i linked above. They have been running on said boards for several years, trouble free. The one has more than 2000 hrs of print time and still going strong. the 2nd one is probably around 1200 print hours. Both are reliable workhorses.

OK would it be as compatible to the SD3? I am cool with going ahead with that plan just to get it back to functioning as it did.

I have since noticed I have some life in the board. The heatbed is heating and the hotend is heating, hotend fan is running and the thermistors are reporting accurate temps to the screen (laptop running repetier-host connected via usb). It is localised to a problem sending commands to running the motors X,Y,Z and E.

Cheers for the response.
I appreciate your time.

Cyberfez

8

Re: Not sure if I killed my Solidoodle 3.0 mobo

OK would it be as compatible to the SD3 … as it did.

Absolutely. the only difference between a 3 running the Rev E and a 4 is the enclosure and where the board was mounted. otherwise they were/are identical when new.
Pull the enclosure off of the 4 and it would look almost identical to your 3.

setting up the Rumba is a pretty easy process, but will require you to flash the firmware to it.
You will need to change the connectors for the thermistors, but all others can use the screw connections.
If you need help with any of that, just ask.
oh yeah.. you will most likely need to drill a new hole or two to mount the new board, too. again, pretty easy.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1