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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Software & Firmware → Manually add new printer s3d
Ok, so a friend is letting me try simplify3d, but i dont have his username and password. I need to add my printer but config assistant is unavailable at this time:)
I know i could use a fff but that kind of defeats the purpose of me learning how to use the software. I have a tevo tornado gold edition.
How do i add a printer manually? Thanks
You just need to enter your x y z dimensions. Bed and nozzle temps, print speeds, start and end codes, and layer thickness. All of these values are in your previous host and you should know them anyways. I have used the liberated version of S3D for years and have always had to manually add my ptinters.
You just need to enter your x y z dimensions. Bed and nozzle temps, print speeds, start and end codes, and layer thickness. All of these values are in your previous host and you should know them anyways. I have used the liberated version of S3D for years and have always had to manually add my ptinters.
Yes, i was going to grab the info from cura 4.0 and use that for s3d.
I think this version is a liberated version because when i asked him for user/pass, he said "dont need one"
With that said and i have never used this program, AND i am coming over from a davinci jr1.0, no idea how to use more advanced host haha.
Where do i go to input all the settings you told me? I know most that stuff but i do not know how to add a printer manually and save it as a default.
Thanks again for help
carl_m1968 wrote:You just need to enter your x y z dimensions. Bed and nozzle temps, print speeds, start and end codes, and layer thickness. All of these values are in your previous host and you should know them anyways. I have used the liberated version of S3D for years and have always had to manually add my ptinters.
Yes, i was going to grab the info from cura 4.0 and use that for s3d.
I think this version is a liberated version because when i asked him for user/pass, he said "dont need one"
With that said and i have never used this program, AND i am coming over from a davinci jr1.0, no idea how to use more advanced host haha.
Where do i go to input all the settings you told me? I know most that stuff but i do not know how to add a printer manually and save it as a default.
Thanks again for help
Machine dimensions is under tools, options, machine. The temperatures are in the slicer settings set by clicking process settings. Those areas should be self explanatory except for speeds which are found under other.
awesome. I will check that out now. thanks
ok, i noticed that on some profiles i downloaded, just to check settings, they use 0.38mm for nozzle rather than the 0.40. why is this?
thanks
ok, i noticed that on some profiles i downloaded, just to check settings, they use 0.38mm for nozzle rather than the 0.40. why is this?
thanks
Maybe as a cheat to adjust over extrusion.. It should be .40 if it is a .40 nozzle. and extrusion should be adjusted through proper calibration of the steps per mm of the extruder. There are several threads covering this and a simple google search tells you how to check it and tune it as well as checking flow rate.
lt72884 wrote:ok, i noticed that on some profiles i downloaded, just to check settings, they use 0.38mm for nozzle rather than the 0.40. why is this?
thanks
Maybe as a cheat to adjust over extrusion.. It should be .40 if it is a .40 nozzle. and extrusion should be adjusted through proper calibration of the steps per mm of the extruder. There are several threads covering this and a simple google search tells you how to check it and tune it as well as checking flow rate.
ohhh, ok, i see what you mean. Yes, i always set it to the 0.4mm then print a 20x20mm cube, use my calipers to see how accurate it printed. Then use the math formula to adjust what i need to.
S3d, im not sure about it yet haha. Its a challange to even move, scale and rotate the object. Drives me crazy haha.
thanks
just my opinion, and we all know what those are like... 
but, to me, S3D is WAY over-hyped.
I much prefer Slic3r.
but then, different strokes for different folks.
have fun, that is the main thing.
just my opinion, and we all know what those are like...
but, to me, S3D is WAY over-hyped.I much prefer Slic3r.
but then, different strokes for different folks.
have fun, that is the main thing.
i feel ya, mainly i want s3d for picking where i put supports. But then again, maybe that is over rated as well??
the manual supports is about the only thing S3D is good for - but - here is the kicker.. you can do the same thing with a different free program called Meshmixer.
add the supports where you want them, save the file, import into the slicer of your choice and slice as normal.
the supports created by Meshmixer are just as easy to remove as the S3D ones. Even when printing with TPU, which i do.
the manual supports is about the only thing S3D is good for - but - here is the kicker.. you can do the same thing with a different free program called Meshmixer.
add the supports where you want them, save the file, import into the slicer of your choice and slice as normal.
the supports created by Meshmixer are just as easy to remove as the S3D ones. Even when printing with TPU, which i do.
so if i am following you, i can simply tell meshmixer where to generate supports and it will?
do you have a video on this, because i would like to try it.
thans
whole bunch of them out there, just search..
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ … er+support
whole bunch of them out there, just search..
hmm, this might be the move right here. Is there a reason to NOT to use tree supports?
thanks
depends on the model. every model is different.
some need no support at all, others need a lot of support, and still others may need only a little here and there.
it takes practice to decide what you need and when you need it. This is not something one can just tell you.
there is an analysis tool within Meshmixer that can help you decide, but it is not foolproof.
Like Heartless said it depends. Depends on the model and your printers capabilities. A lot depends on how well your printer can bridge. That means print a layer from one point to another over open air by pulling a strand through the air from point to point. How far your machine can do this depends on how well it is tuned. Some machines can do this over 50mm or more while other can only manage a few mm. Then of course over hangs over a certain angle are the other issues that warrant supports. Some printers can do greater overhangs as well. Much of that depends on your cooling setup. The point is you have to observe what your machine is capable of based on your tuning skills and judge where you need supports based on the model and the orientation you choose to print it at. 3D printing is not just a hobby, it's a science that requires skills and knowledge that cannot be taught but must be learned.
i know a few people that would have used supports on this print due to the amount of overhang along the upper edge.
My printers are pretty well tuned and calibrated, and I am fairly confident of their capabilities, but I will admit, I was not 100% sure it could be pulled off with no support at all. I am proud to say it did print, and print quite nicely with no supports at all
Hatchbox Gold ABS printed at a 0.3 layer height, no part fan, just good old fashioned tuning & proper calibration.
While this one used standard Slic3r supports..
Some things can be taught, like the proper procedures for calibration and tuning, but some things you just have to experiment with, trial and error, figure out what works and what does not.
dang. i see what you two mean. Im still learning this printer. I have had it 2 weeks. its my first real printer. Its the CR10. i am doing a calibration run tomorrow for overhangs and bridging.
I dont have any real prints yet, just basic cubes. haha.
thanks for sharing your guys knowledge and expertise, as well as the photos. much much appreciated:)
one other thing i wanted to ask, i do know the s3d has the multiprocess options such as, from 0-10mm print with this infill and settings, then from 10-13mm these settings, etc. is that avalable in cura or slic3r?
thanks
yes, it is available in Slic3r, but perhaps not in the same way as S3D.
The newest version of Slic3r (1.3.0) has what they are calling "adaptive quality" - it automatically changes layer heights based on the topology of the model. or, you can set up different layer heights manually, if you prefer.
different infills are done a little differently in Slic3r, however.
It uses "modifiers" to specify areas of different fill density.
a modifier is just a simple shape placed in the area of the model that you want to use a different fill density than the rest of the model.
some simple modifiers can be created within Slic3r directly, or they can be created in a modeling program and saved to import.
Meshmixer is a useful tool for this as well.
Hmm, this is good to know. I will have to see if cura 4.0 has anything like this. Im going to be trying the supports from mesh mixer soon. I still need to calibrate my printer. I just have a dynamics test this week haha
Tree supports are cool, but i can see how i need to use the other types of supports as well. to bad mesh mixer cant generate other types besides tree. That would be pretty helpful:)
thanks again
Cura does not have support for multiple densities of fill in a single model. Cura is very basic in many terms and they try to keep it that way. I use it on my new Anycubic 4Max as I have yet to get S3D dialed in on this new machine.
Make sure the frame of the printer is square and tight, belts are properly tensioned, and then start calibrations.
First calibration you should do is to make sure the feed rate is correct.
Feed rate refers to how much filament is pulled into the hotend. If you ask it to feed 100mm, it should feed 100mm - not 98, not 103, just 100. period.
Second calibration should be on the filament itself - or what is referred to as flow rate (how much is coming out of the hotend).
Every single spool of filament will be different - even two spools of the exact same brand & color will be different.
The only way to get consistent results from your printer is to calibrate your filament properly.
for a rundown on the proper way to calibrate feed and flow rates, take a look at these links:
https://northwoods3d.weebly.com/blog/fi … ion-part-1
https://northwoods3d.weebly.com/blog/-f … coming-out
Thanks for the links. I will be doing that soon since i just ran out of filiment.
What calibration is it where i print the 20x20 mm cube and use my calipers to check to see if it is really 20mm or not?
thanks
That would be the steps per mm on your x y and z motors. Make sure to mark the cube before you remove it so you know which sides are x and y.
Yup, what Carl said... and honestly, I would not really rely on a 20mm cube. You want to do something larger that will show issues more clearly.
I use the one I am attaching here.. you can check all axis' with it.
but again, make sure you mark it before removing it so you know which way is X and which is Y
there are 5 very specific dimensions with this piece.
75mm square for the largest section,
50mm square for the smaller upper section,
5mm high steps x 2 (10mm overall height),
and the central hole should be 25mm square
generally speaking, if your dimensions are within 0.5mm you should be fine for general purpose printing.
If you want to be able to do technical prints that need precise dimensional tolerances, you will need to do a bit of tweaking.
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