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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Electronics & Hardware → question for Rumba 2 users experts
OK installed and opened Adreino and got this. what code they talking about?
OK installed and opened Adreino and got this. what code they talking about?
Go back and follow what Heartless said by the letter. What did she say to do once you opened Arduino?
also I didnt see a step to do anything with the Marlin or Rumba image files I downloaded? earlier. is that just on fresh board installs? as the SD2 Im getting already has Rumba installed and was used to print just needs tweaking for print quality seller stated. plus I'm adding the LCD/SD board and part cooling fan but I think seller also never set max temp at 250 from things ha said.
Part cooling fan should already be enabled - it worked for me when I added the fan & i did nothing extra for that.
You just need to hook it up to the correct pins on the board, which should be FAN 0.
Fan 1 is for your case fans.
Not sure what you are talking about re "image files". there are no "image files" used in this.
For the LCD support, you will need to download the u8glib library to add to the setup.
Download here: https://bintray.com/olikraus/u8glib/Arduino
Save it where you can find it again.
Once downloaded, you will need to add it to Arduino - DO NOT unzip!
In Arduino, go to Sketch > Include Library > Add .ZIP Library
Find the downloaded U8glib library zip file, click on it, and click on "Open" to add it
You do not need to open Arduino directly..
you need to go to your marlin folder and double click on the Marlin.ino file.. That will open Arduino automatically.
ok now I think I got what I need when SD2 units arrive. Thanks for the Great instructions!
ok now I think I got what I need when SD2 units arrive. Thanks for the Great instructions!
you are welcome.
in the part about selecting com port, would this be a good time to add this printer to RH and assign it a new com port like Com 24, since I plan to have multiple SD2 printers installed/running? as I already have my old SD2 on Com 12 since Com 1-5 were already taken by other devices and temp devices grab low inactive ports when plugged in.
The PC will assign a COMPort. Unless you want to force a certain number once it is connected. The COMport the Arduino ask for is the one that the PC has currently given the printer once it is connected and recognized. Same with RH.
Windows assigns the COM ports once something is plugged in.. you can then change it if you wish.
but until the actual item is plugged in, there is nothing you can do
thats why I had an issue with my 1st SD2 as it assigned com 5 then weeks later I connected an PDA device dock while not using the 3D printer and the PC stole com 5 for the PDA and I could not change it. neither could Solidoodle techs. I finally figured how to rename Com port 5 to 12 and got the SD2 to connect and let the PDA find another lower numbered unused com port. RH dont let you choose com port when installing virtual printers seems, then while that port is idle Windows sees it as an available port next device you plug in, so thats when I learned why they call it 'plug & Pray'. took me over a week to get that worked out. still dont understand why I had to do all that to get port to connect again but it worked for years since.
the printer with Rumba is working already so maybe I can install it and change port b4 these upgrades and re-flashing huh?
the printer with Rumba is working already so maybe I can install it and change port b4 these upgrades and re-flashing huh?
Yes, Once you get the printer, Plug in the USB and let it connect to the pc..
then go to windows device manager and change that Com port to something else right away so you don't have that kind of issue again.
Even still the printer port may change if you plug an addition item in while the printer is not turned on or disconnected. You should just be able to look in device manager once the printer is turned on and see what port it is on.
Then just go into printer settings in RH and Arduino and give them the new port number. In case of RH I would not print over USB as it is more prone to failures and lock ups.
The LCD you are adding has SD card support. I would and personally use this method. Just save the gcode file from RH to the SD then insert the SD into the LCD and load it from the LCD. In that way you don't even need the PC connected to the printer except when you need to use Arduino to update the firmware.
to each their own, but I have very few issues running tethered, and I do it regularly - even running multiple printers at the same time. The Rumba board seems to be much more robust in that regard, vs the stock Printrboards (i have no experience with the Sang, so cannot comment on those)
BUT - I am also running a tower (not a laptop) with a quad core processor, 12gigs of RAM & Win7 Pro 64 bit.. I also have the printers & pc connected to a good UPS, so minor power blips do not affect anything. In the event of a major outage, I have time to kill prints & shut everything down properly.
Even still the printer port may change if you plug an addition item in while the printer is not turned on or disconnected. You should just be able to look in device manager once the printer is turned on and see what port it is on.
Then just go into printer settings in RH and Arduino and give them the new port number. In case of RH I would not print over USB as it is more prone to failures and lock ups.
The LCD you are adding has SD card support. I would and personally use this method. Just save the gcode file from RH to the SD then insert the SD into the LCD and load it from the LCD. In that way you don't even need the PC connected to the printer except when you need to use Arduino to update the firmware.
Windows assigns lowest numbered free com ports thats why I use the high numbers for 3D printers like 12, 24 etc.
ok got the printers, not quite as described and no photos of some issues that should have been told. like one is just a rusty partial parts unit.
the main one with Rumba and E3d lite and that new power supply could no way have printed as is. has fishing line for belts and they slip and twist carriage & wont go half way forward by belt drive due to slipping, 1 part of adjuster mount plastic is cracked and the 2 replacement rods are sticking out a few inches each end of case plus collars not holding correct (none of this was in photos) also unsure if E3D lite, Rumba and PSU are damaged due to misuse/wiring (see photo att of power output jumpers) filament feed tension spring assm was missing also. if they are OK I can finish mods correctly with parts off others to make the best one work. otherwise I'm afraid Carl was right about his estimate of it.
oh also the printer wire loom chain is so loose it sags and comes apart and hits fishing line etc gonna have to fix that too. it only has original bed heater but not sure if those power jumpers caused any issues as one of the sellers old posts he talked about issues like that on a SD3 blew fuses and also told me similar issue with the 1st Rumba on this SD2 and factory sent new Rumba board... gotta deal with these mechanical issues before checking operation of electronics though.
not gonna be happy at all if the 3 main electronic items are bad due to improper installation, as that would make these units expensive trash which I already had one more complete. these units & pics are in a for sale post from last Oct on this Forum.
I have used all types of braided fishing line on fishing rods/reels and its like using a saw cable it cuts through everything so fast. no way would I use it as a belt even with correct pulleys made of Ceramic its no improvement. I also owned a Craftsman Router duplicator machine that used cables for belts and it too was junk as it allowed uneven movement with very poor results.
imho Take a breath write down the issues prioritize and take step by step.
fishing line is actually an improved drive system that was quite common
the wiring likely ok not a favorite of the colors used
ok, most of what you have described can be easily taken care of.
the rods sticking out of the frame is no big deal, just properly adjust the collars so they are held in place correctly. I would put the excess rod at the back, out of the way.
Power Supply Wiring.. the way that was done is not really going to hurt anything, but also not really the right way to do it..
Main board power should run from one pair of terminals, NOT jumpered..
Heated bed power IS jumpered between the 2 remaining terminals.
there is a voltage adjustment on these PSUs, so you should verify what the output is before running the printer. Ideally you want it around 12.8-13v at idle (powered up but not actually running) you will not hurt anything at that output.
Fishing line for belts would be in wardjr's domain..
If you need help with any of the printed parts, I know PrintIt Industries has Lawsy Carriages & the mk6 extruder parts available for minimal cost if you need to replace anything.
thanks alot people. I was just worried about the power supply being jumpered between 2 different outputs as most low voltage transformers if they use 2 different transformers about 95% of time are not synced wave and can burn out if load is jumpered together. HVAC 24v Thermostats had this issue if Heat & AC used their own transformers and tied together at Thermostat or if 2 units were 'twined" together. in all My years in that career I only found 1 such system that worked fine for over 20 years as the 2 transformers were perfect synced frequency by some miracle. but if the PSU dont use 2 different transformers thats great. I am planning to wire it correct as I am swapping bed Heater with the SD3 silicone one Heartless gave Me. also this would mean Rumba is OK as long as the E3D lite was not over heated all will be good. I do plan to use the original style belts though. not a fan of braided fishing line at all as its cost me lots of fishing gear and the plastic/Aluminum parts its on wont last through 1 short print if any slippage occurs. just means it may be a while if ever before getting all 3 SD2 Printers working as I have to cannibalize some for 1st one then work on next.
the parts unit also has some old rare parts both factory and mods. got the original Solidoodle Board (though it was in cling wrap lol) it had Cork lining in bottom, I guess 1st hotend holder Mod that swings out for access not like current Lawsey type which I already have complete printed set. also found a Motor Mount for left outside of frame with the expensive backlash coupler to eliminate short belt for rear shaft plus pillar block bearings for same shaft. planning to cut the Rods to length with My heavy duty version of Dremel Multi tool which has Stainless Steel cutting blades or a proper cutoff tool and a set of over kill pulley mounts I printed. and replace all the Wood Screws with proper Machine Screws...
also found a small 2A PSU that was wired just to power the LED work lights on parts unit as a work light lol.
anyone use the Plastic 3D printed chain Wire loom on their Solidoodle? how do you keep it from sagging, coming apart and laying on other moving parts?
only cure I can think of is maybe a thin flat spring steel backbone to slide in along wires to help stiffen it Horizontally and still allow it to bend sideways. or just replace it with original loom and elastic tensioner to corner of frame.
at least I got em on My rack and easy access for fixing them of next couple months as Tin says step at a time.
Id never try this without this Forum as backup when needed. cant Thank all its Members enough!
none of my SDs have the cable chain.. just braided wire loom over the wires to keep them neatly bundled. Dont have any issues with them like this. but again, mine are SD4s, so your mileage may vary.
the only printer I have that uses cable chain is the FT-5 large format, which I am in the process of getting back into printer form (i was a beta tester for the cnc add-on kit - what a disappointment that was, lol) should have that back up and running today.
as for cutting the rods.. a dremel is going to have a VERY tough time cutting those.. and unless you want to destroy those stainless steel blades, change them out for the fiber type.. and make sure you use proper safety gear, too.. safety glasses being #1
I used a 4" angle grinder with a cutting disc to cut mine, and even then it took a few minutes - they are hardened steel - or should be.
I tried cutting a rod once with a dremel and a reinforced cutoff disc. After 1 hour of cutting I was barely a quarter way through. I had to take them to a machine shop. It took them 30 minutes with their purpose built saw.
A Harbor Freight 4.5 Grinder will set you back all of $15. I would not recommend one of these for every day professional use. but should hand a few cuts and a few minutes to an hour of grinding every weekend.
A caveat these are tools not toys they will cut steel and therefore could grind though a finger or other body part. use caution use proper guards beware of line of fire etc. and hold the work in a vise.
thanks I know what Im up against. I also have the 4.5" HF cutoff tool with Diamond blades. and the SSA cutting blades for the Dremel are not made of SS this is the Dremel https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/- … i-max-mm45
the MM20 is the one you can buy at Lowes etc. the MM45 only direct from Dremel also accs for it like depth gauge etc. I have worn out areas of the Rubber protective covers on tool due to its power in use lol. I have always been serious about my tools as they made my living for over 50 years and I only buy the best with mostly life time Warranty as some have out lived their manufactures and a couple original owners if properly cared for.
anyone ever remove the bed heater from an SD2? its got #8 Torx screws with locking cap nuts and its like supperglued threads as my Tool nearly broke trying to loosen them b4 stripping the screw heads Torx points. gonna have to drill them out.
also the Silicone heater off SD3 has a deep pit drilled into bottom of Aluminum plate for sensor to rest in center for better temp readings
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