1 Topic by dbzocchi

  • dbzocchi
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Topic: Replacing Jr with E3D

Hi, I'm wanting to replace the stock extruder with the E3D, I'm wondering if it is at all possible if someone could give me a quick rundown of how it's done, or even point me towards a tutorial of some kind, can i keep the original housing and PCB or the current extruder?
I have researched this but the information widely varies over printer models i.e the pro or is several years old and I don't know if there is a newer easier extruder to use

so any advice would be great thank you

if possible ebay/amazon links (uk) to the correct equiptment

again thank you for any help in advance

2 Reply by Tin Falcon

  • Tin Falcon
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Re: Replacing Jr with E3D


this may help also go to the e3d web page
also what are you trying to intending to replace. the hot end  is the nozzzle heater block heater , heat sink and fan . commonly known as the hot end or hot end assembly. the extuder is the mechanism that feeds the plastic into the hot end.
also e3d is simply a brand name and a term commonly used for the e3d v6 hot end assembly  but they do make extruders  sell motors etc.

Hopefully some wit a davinci jr can help more

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

3 Reply by yizhou.he (edited by yizhou.he 2019-02-03 19:27:00)

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Re: Replacing Jr with E3D

The video Tin provided is the most elegant solution, with minimal change and is less technically challenge. It will definitely keep your hotend working for another while. However it does not take full advantage of E3D hotend, which means the hotend will still jam sooner or later and still difficult to disassemble and unjam, because the bad design of the original housing and PCB that you really really want to keep prevent efficient heat exchange. It will be slightly better than stock hotend, and your hotend will look almost like the stock one, it will be the safe plan to fix the stock hotend.

The mod that I liked among all mods that I have experimentally tested is this.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1724209
It does not look elegant at all. your PCB will be mounted somewhere else, and you need to make some solid quality cable. The benefit will be almost never jam, robust layer cooling fan, easy to disassemble and unjam, if it ever jam again. Efficient cooling, and say good bye to heat creap.  Disadvantage will be not so great looking, potential stability issue if you don't know how to make good cable.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

4 Reply by dbzocchi

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Re: Replacing Jr with E3D

Thanks for the advice, I think I will go with yizhou's solution if I fail I can always go with option B.

I just have a couple of questions for the process

1) how is the fan extended, extension cable or cut/solder/heat shrink?

2) is this ok enough?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Forrom-Extrude … B07HGS4FW3

3) how do you attach the temp sensor to the heat sync, what type of glue is it?

4) i want to replace the stock fan wirth this silent faster one (wife complaining about the noise) will it make a big difference, is it worth it
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01 … &psc=1

5 Reply by yizhou.he (edited by yizhou.he 2019-02-04 20:56:33)

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Re: Replacing Jr with E3D

dbzocchi wrote:

Thanks for the advice, I think I will go with yizhou's solution if I fail I can always go with option B.

I just have a couple of questions for the process

1) how is the fan extended, extension cable or cut/solder/heat shrink?

2) is this ok enough?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Forrom-Extrude … B07HGS4FW3

3) how do you attach the temp sensor to the heat sync, what type of glue is it?

4) i want to replace the stock fan wirth this silent faster one (wife complaining about the noise) will it make a big difference, is it worth it
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01 … &psc=1

1). Solder will be best solution, but before you are certain everything will work, use JST/Dupont pin first to test out. You also want to plan ahead so that you can easily unplug the hotend for carriage for maintenance purpose if needed.

2). It is not authentic E3D, it is a E3D clone, but should work for your purpose. 

3). temp sensor will be fixed on heat block by a screw, no glue needed, but you can add some thermal paste. However you need to zip tire the cable for temp sensor and heating element on hotend so that the cable don't break over constant bending by x axis movement.

4). I have no experience with FDB (Fluid Dynamic Bearing) for hotend fan, I bought two large one for the case and it makes big difference. I always buy ball bearing fans for hotend, which is quiet and powerful but significant more expensive. Based on numbers, it is powerful enough and very quiet. The price is very good, but little concerned the air flow based on the reviews. I would use it for main board cooling or power supply or the case fan if corresponding size available.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1