Problem with Anycubic Photon DLP printer

Hi again,

a) Is all that resin cured and stuck to your FEP ?
If so, looks like your LCD is faulty. Try the test screen in the menu to see if you get the correct test pattern on the LCD.

b) I believe optimal temperature for resin printing is around 20°C.

c) Depends on what you are printing. Some models will print just fine with no angle. You need to position your prints so that the least amount of horizontal surface area comes into contact with the FEP in order to avoid suction forces from pulling the print off the platform.

d) Looks like your print is under-cured. Try increasing the normal exposure time.

You'll fine a ton of info on the Photon Facebook group ........ https://www.facebook.com/groups/Anycubi … ?ref=share

Hello Scobo,

Finally, adding more strong supports, and rising temperature of the room, printing finished properly.
Thanks for your help Scobo.

Listen, did you used ChiTuBox slicer? I am downloading now, seems it works for Photon and people talk nice of this software.

Regards!

Yes, Chitubox is a big improvement over the Photon slicer but still has a few bugs.
It's actually coded by the same people who did the Photon slicer.

I'm not aware of anyone here but there are members on the Facebook group who are linked with Chitubox.
The default profile in settings is for the Photon. You can switch profiles for different printers within the settings too.

Yeah, this forum is not so busy these days.
Like I say, the Facebook Photon group is where you want to look, it has far more members and a ton of good info.

The forum is busy, just not for the TWO photon owners here. The rest are FDM, Formlabs, or Wanhao D7.

For this forum that is busy.

I just received my Anycubic Photon yesterday; haven't even opened the box yet!  I hope to have time to play with it this weekend.

-Kevin

These printers as well as the D7 like mine included use a resin that becomes acrylic once cured. Prints are very brittle and small things like fingers, horns, and such break off at a touch. I can't tell you how many prints I have broken simply trying to remove supports. They will shatter if dropped. They also become even more brittle over time as any exposure to UV light cause the material to cure further to the point of over curing. So a few years from now the parts will probably just fall apart. These printers are fine for trinkets and such or things that will just sit and look pretty. But for usable and structural parts the resin just is not there. The few so called durable resins or still horribly expensive. You can get normal resin for about $60 a quart/liter. But the durable stuff is like $300 per liter.

If they ever make a resin that cures just as durable as PLA or ABS then these printers will take off simply because of the sub .01 resolutions they can do.

I use my Solidoodles to print functional, practical pieces.  I'll continue to use them extensively in that regard, as well as more whimsical purposes. My SD4 does an especially good job (my prints look better than most of the swill on Thingiverse!), but I've reached the practical limit of what an FDM printer can do.

The Anycubic Photon is to fill a void in my capabilities by printing small, detailed items like wargame figures, decorations, etc.  This just adds another tool to my 'toolbox' of 3D printers and laser engraver.

I'm looking forward to learning this new process.

-Kevin

You know that was a kickstarter that was never actually made right? Only a few prototypes where ever released to supporters.

https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/wha … box-78397/

Besides you can get a Photon or a D7 for about what you would pay for a Nano know if you found one due to it being a collectors item. The advantage of a D7 or Photon is you can print many of those small items in the same amount of time it would take to print one. That Nano could do the same but fewer at a time.