Printing Human Figures (Page 1 of 2)

Give KISSlicer a try for support, and use a raft so the support can stick to the bed.  Also if you keep your model solid rather than hollow, you can still save plastic by reducing the fill.  It should be stronger because there is some plastic throughout the cross section to hold everything together.  Adding a perimeter or two will also help with strength.

Look into adding a fan to the nozzle, that will help print small things like the hands without them getting smooshed from staying too hot - http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … ruder-fan/

what work for me...

2 perimeters... 3 if you find hole in 'skin' ( one is not enough for the slope of a lot of models)

between 0.10 and 0.15 infill .. no 'hollow' ... you need the infill for the stability of the model during the print and the "line" of the infill will help for the overhang part (0.12 is a good average choice.. sometimes 0.10 is not enough)

slow move... but not too slow because the heat of the hot tip of the extruder will continue to melt the abs (best is a controlled fan in this case..it help also for slope more than 45deg)

the support generator of kisslicer is better than the one of slic3r but the gcode generator is less stable.. try and see for each of your model.

The best is to make your own support with cones (not box) so it can be easily removed and the lower surface of the tip is sufficient to help the support.

you can use brim (kissclicer) or raft (slic3r) for the base as it stabilizes the model (and prevent warping/detachment)

2 of your 3 models are not (at all) printer friendly... (the woman in chair is the worst, then the dancer..)
the last one can be print with no support (depending of the position of the arms i can't see)
if you give link, i can try to print them to help you

print it at 0.2mm layer height .. faster..less plastic...and it's the best choice with the solidoodle characteristic for quality..(see prusa calculator for proof  http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/ ) 0.1 is a luxury that a very few models benefit ... (of for a little print scale like your 2 euro height woman in chair)

and for the final... big scale is better and easiest...   under 70 mm , it's more difficult...

it's my pleasure..

i dont use a fan( but i will do the mod in a near futur..)

but i use a enclosure with controlled inside temperature...

enclosure is a "must have"... because you can ruin a print just by moving air around your printer during a print...

when you print a thin arm (or another small part.), you do not want to change the properties of your object being printed by cooling ("don't open this window !! noooooo!!! " (cold air... woooooshh...self-destruction of a 14h print...)) which will cause a bad fusion of ABS layers or worse : warping of the base or a blob of abs that become hard too fast and catch the extruder during a travel after that and break a thin support that will be used for another part...classic story)

but you don't want also to be in a too hot ambient.. (ABS don't cool enough fast and thin part move with the extruder during extruding travel...my enclosure is set to stay at 30 degC)

also before an important print, always clean you bed with acetone : it help preventing warp (rule of thumb.. always clean your bed before each print...)

i will try to print the dancer... (the chair is a nightmare for our printer...)

how did you generate that report?

I did alot of hole capping when I diced the model into parts. limbs, head, etc.. do you want the cut up stl files I used?

lol ^_^

the only things that I really wasn't able to print on juilet was the hair and hands.. but you've already explained this as the tip being too hot and melting the small features.

I'm going to collect materials this weekend hopefully get better results with smaller parts, for example hands.

I'll first get an enclosure and maybe a thermostat so I can read the temperature inside. then need to find a small fan I can mount on the extruder.

anyways juilet is from a video game called lollipopchainsaw, the game models can be viewed using a program called umodel. I posed her after one of the game posters [attached below]

ok... photos times...

it's not a great succes as i didn't do all i do for such a model when i print it for me...

the model by itself come well... but i didn,t put enough thickness in her clothes... (0.4mm...)

it's like a zombie eat all her clothes... (perhaps it's a hentai model ? )

now i know where are the points to check... the bad pixels win this battle... second round.. i will win the war...

the choice to print her at 45 deg is good.. i didn't clean her completely because the print is not good, but all is here : hand, hair, etc...

yep.. it's the automatic support generator of slic3r... you didn't need something very thick to support.. and it's easily removed..

in fact, it's overkill because with the model on 45 deg, we only need support for the skirt, hair, head,arms and hands.. not for the body or leg

very nicely done. you might look at daz 3d and hexagon programs. with daz 3d you can pose models you purchase or make and then transfer them into hexagon from whichyou can then make an stl

i work a  lot on the model... yep, larger thickness on every part and clean all that is not needed for the final look (remove some hair, clean geometry...)

for an example, this is her skirt before and after..(joined picture)

for a good print, you need enough thickness on all parts. This will help for a good support
this one was printed with internal support of kissclicer (more robust than the one of slic3r, but harder to remove..)
but in "L"' position instead of the previous one in "<" position (notice the difference ? )

now that i know that the model is clean without hole, i can work on making integrated support..

@Manx

i already use poser pro and hexagon (try to print a poser/daz3d model and you will see that it's not a piece of cake..) .. the problem here is to transform a model that was made for a video game in a "printable" one

@nickythegreek
thanks.. it's just a question of time and tools .. 90% of sweat and 10 % of skill..

sure I'll put the model after I am happy with the result ..

teaser included ^^

sorry.. i don't understand what you mean... english is not my native language

ok... 7 hours of printing later.. this is my last result...
there are still some tweaking that we can make (mostly on the hair) but i work on juliet all my saturday and it's enough..

you can see the picture just after the printing with all my supports... the support that suport the support ... and the support that support the support that support the support..

i print it at half my usual speed... because of the support.. (too fast and the extruder break some supports when moving..)
i'm happy with the result.. a bit of sanding and she will be good looking

my homemade support do their job... all is well printed... with a support removing time of one (1) minute.

i put also a picture of 'homemade support result' vs ' automatic support result' ...

what i can said, it's that the result is very dependant of the model and tweaking of the automatic support ...  there is a clear gain when you remove it.. it took me less than 2 minutes to remove and clean mine, vs near 20 minutes to clean the kissclicer one (a bit less for the slic3r one..) and this model was REALLY (i mean REALLY REALLY ! ) complicated to support..

i joined the stl if you want to try...
my own model wait for me

the STL is too heavy for the forum, you can download it here :
http://m20g2g.1fichier.com/en/

dont' use any raft, brim or support with this stl... all is in
sorry for the photos, the black filament is not photo-friendly...

now... who will made the chainsaw stl ?