1

Topic: Bed leveling issue.

Hey guys seems like I’ve had this issue for a long time don’t know what I’m doing wrong. So I start a print let everything get up to temp let the head begin to move to its first position in the print, I kill the power I move the head manually to each corner and set my .1mm gap with a piece of paper that I verified is the right thickness. I get it set dead nuts restart the print and it seems like it changes its like every time after leveling it perfectly I restart the print and the nozzle is to tight makes no sense to me.

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

2

Re: Bed leveling issue.

evanboothe wrote:

Hey guys seems like I’ve had this issue for a long time don’t know what I’m doing wrong. So I start a print let everything get up to temp let the head begin to move to its first position in the print, I kill the power I move the head manually to each corner and set my .1mm gap with a piece of paper that I verified is the right thickness. I get it set dead nuts restart the print and it seems like it changes its like every time after leveling it perfectly I restart the print and the nozzle is to tight makes no sense to me.


maybe your print has an offset in it that is moving the head lower than it should, you should let it actually begin to lay a layer before killing power just to make sure you are at the exact level of the first layer.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

3

Re: Bed leveling issue.

Sounds like you have thinks out of sequence warm the machine home it tram the bed (level ) 4 -5 point with a gauge then start to print.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

4

Re: Bed leveling issue.

Tin Falcon wrote:

Sounds like you have thinks out of sequence warm the machine home it tram the bed (level ) 4 -5 point with a gauge then start to print.


He has the right order for manual leveling. You need it at full temp and where it thinks a print is supposed to start. I don't think he is waiting for the actual printing to start though like he should and there may be an offset happening that he is not aware of.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

5 (edited by evanboothe 2018-12-24 01:58:48)

Re: Bed leveling issue.

carl_m1968 wrote:
Tin Falcon wrote:

Sounds like you have thinks out of sequence warm the machine home it tram the bed (level ) 4 -5 point with a gauge then start to print.


He has the right order for manual leveling. You need it at full temp and where it thinks a print is supposed to start. I don't think he is waiting for the actual printing to start though like he should and there may be an offset happening that he is not aware of.

Sorry I am just replying to this.. I am letting the machine lay it’s first layer than I kill power, I then manually move the head around using a feeling gauge to set the exact mm height I chose in my slicer, I get it dead on .1mm or whatever my height is I restart the print and the print begins it’s first later again and the bed is to close to the extruder. Even though I just killed the power at the same exact point in the print and adjusted to the correct height. I’m starting to wonder if my z axis steps is off even though I do get good prints when I’m not having bed level change issues but at the same time I haven’t make anything lately that was a critical height so I haven’t checked height.. I’ll try a calibration cube and see what happens

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

6

Re: Bed leveling issue.

I'm not sure I follow. You are using a feeler gauge that is the same thickness as your layer height in your slicer?

First I would be really surprised if your printer can print a .1 layer. It will also take three times as long as a .2 layer. For FDM a .2 layer is really as low as you should ever go.

That being said your layer height for ALL layers in your slicer should be .2 or .3 if you want speed in place of looks. In either case you should then use a feeler gauge of .1 to set your bed height for the initial layer. It will be squished but this is what you want.

From what you posted it sounds like your layer height in slicer is the same layer height you are trying to level to so you will see no change in height between the first layer and layers there after.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

7 (edited by evanboothe 2018-12-24 19:39:14)

Re: Bed leveling issue.

carl_m1968 wrote:

I'm not sure I follow. You are using a feeler gauge that is the same thickness as your layer height in your slicer?

First I would be really surprised if your printer can print a .1 layer. It will also take three times as long as a .2 layer. For FDM a .2 layer is really as low as you should ever go.

That being said your layer height for ALL layers in your slicer should be .2 or .3 if you want speed in place of looks. In either case you should then use a feeler gauge of .1 to set your bed height for the initial layer. It will be squished but this is what you want.

From what you posted it sounds like your layer height in slicer is the same layer height you are trying to level to so you will see no change in height between the first layer and layers there after.


I have been printing at a .15 layer height with no problem yes it takes double the time but the quality is much better. I will attach a photo..http://soliforum.com/i/?53axJJX.jpg

http://soliforum.com/i/?tBtZOm2.jpg

Now back to my question.. I’m not fully understanding what you mean either haha. Let me re describe everything.


My slicer is set up for first layer height to .1 and all other layers after that are set to .15

I use start a print I let everything get up to temp I let the first layer begin, I then cut the power off, I quickly clean the bed with alcohol because I’m weird and anal, after cleaning but still up to temp (maybe not completly to temp but close enough). I then use a .1mm feeler gauge and adjust my bed to slightly drag the .1 feeler gauge in 5 positions all four corners and center. I get it a little tight so that the first layer is a little smushed so that it adheres better.  I then home all axis’s and restart print. SOMETIMES it will keep that adjustment, SOMETIMES it brings the extruder to close to the glass even though I JUST adjusted the bed lower than what it is moving to. I don’t know what else I can do to help explain it better.. hope I made sense. Sorry

Also the prints above were in tpu

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

8

Re: Bed leveling issue.

check your z axis end stop sounds like it is loose . if so every time you home it will screw in a bit and the nozzle will get closer to the bed.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

9

Re: Bed leveling issue.

Your slicer first layer should be the same as all the other layers. The idea here is to have all the layers the same but you adjust the bed height so the first layer is squished.

So your slicer should be set for .15 as you say on ALL layers including the first. Then you level the bed to .10 or more closely to .075 as the first layer should be squished to half of your desired layer height.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

10

Re: Bed leveling issue.

Tin Falcon wrote:

check your z axis end stop sounds like it is loose . if so every time you home it will screw in a bit and the nozzle will get closer to the bed.

I will check that tonight thank you a lot.

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

11

Re: Bed leveling issue.

carl_m1968 wrote:

Your slicer first layer should be the same as all the other layers. The idea here is to have all the layers the same but you adjust the bed height so the first layer is squished.

So your slicer should be set for .15 as you say on ALL layers including the first. Then you level the bed to .10 or more closely to .075 as the first layer should be squished to half of your desired layer height.

ok that makes sense I am now realizing that I had the whole concept wrong here. My assumption was that if I set the bed level to .2mm for instance but it was supposed to be at .1 then the layers would be .1mm to tall. But now I am understanding that the bed doesn’t determine that move it’s the z axis steps that is making the .1 mm or or whatever layer height you are printing at. The initial bed level is just for first layer pretty much after that the z axis steps is what determines the actual layer height.. if that makes sense

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

12 (edited by evanboothe 2018-12-24 23:19:34)

Re: Bed leveling issue.

How do you guys think the part looked above that I posted? Is there anything you can see that I need to change or look into? Like I said that was TPU with no retraction and a .15 layer height. Also I forgot to ask you guys, my circles are a little off.. they aren’t very nice. What could be causing this belt tension? Bent rod?

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

13

Re: Bed leveling issue.

evanboothe wrote:

How do you guys think the part looked above that I posted? Is there anything you can see that I need to change or look into? Like I said that was TPU with no retraction and a .15 layer height. Also I forgot to ask you guys, my circles are a little off.. they aren’t very nice. What could be causing this belt tension? Bent rod?

Looks a bit over extruded. You x gantry may not be square. Pull the gantry full forward and make sure both sides meet the front at the same time.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

14

Re: Bed leveling issue.

I will check that shortly and let you know. I found two files online yesterday and I am thinking about printing them and installing them with new LM8UU bearings. I’ll attach the links of the STL files..let me know what your opinions are on it. Also would be replacing all of the rods with chromed solid rod. If you can suggest any retailers for rod and bearings I would apprecite it.




https://pinshape.com/items/17860-3d-pri … r-bearings


https://pinshape.com/items/18009-3d-pri … r-bearings

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

15 (edited by evanboothe 2018-12-25 00:48:57)

Re: Bed leveling issue.

So checked the x gantry it seems like the left side is tighter than the right. Possible it skipped a tooth on the belt at one point?

I loosened the belt adjuster and moved the gantry back a tooth and measured with some calipers from side to side, it’s dead even now. Never thought to look at that, thank you. How tight should the x belt be? Mines pretty loose and I’m out of adjustment for tension not sure what I should do about that.

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

16

Re: Bed leveling issue.

1 or two of these maybe
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PMYAAOSwbqpT5Fxh/s-l640.jpg

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

17

Re: Bed leveling issue.

Tin Falcon wrote:

1 or two of these maybe
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/PMYAAOSwbqpT5Fxh/s-l640.jpg

What are these called and where do you find them

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

18 (edited by Tin Falcon 2018-12-25 03:07:38)

Re: Bed leveling issue.

3d printer belt tension spring , timing belt tension spring,torsion spring belt tensioner and probably a couple other names 
amazon ,e bay open build, e-3d  just about any  place that carries 3d printer parts.
you can likely steal a couple off of clothes pins if there are any around the house.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

19

Re: Bed leveling issue.

I check height at the corners and sides, and the head is always too low in the center -- which seems to me is a problem with the bed not being flat. So after I set the corners and sides, I move the head to the center (where it drags) and loosen the sides and corners by 1/4 turn on each nut. I'm not happy with that, but it works, and most of my prints are smaller and on-center anyhow. Putting 1/8" glass over the bed flattened it somewhat, so next time I get glass I'm going to 1/4".

20

Re: Bed leveling issue.

FarmerintheWoods wrote:

I check height at the corners and sides, and the head is always too low in the center -- which seems to me is a problem with the bed not being flat. So after I set the corners and sides, I move the head to the center (where it drags) and loosen the sides and corners by 1/4 turn on each nut. I'm not happy with that, but it works, and most of my prints are smaller and on-center anyhow. Putting 1/8" glass over the bed flattened it somewhat, so next time I get glass I'm going to 1/4".

Yeah I’ve noticed that with my glass also.. I replaced the entire print bed in a previous thread.. can’t believe the glass is differnt in the center, same deal with me though I usually print smaller parts so I’m effected by the center being off or to tight like you said. My glass is only 3mm thick that might be my issue. I used a mk3 220mm x 220mm Borosilicate Glass and MK3 Aluminum Heated Bed DIY bundle kit off amazon that came from a company called GO-3D Print in California, thought it would have better glass in the kit or Atleast flat.

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

21

Re: Bed leveling issue.

Does anyone know what speed setting I would change in my firmware config file to make for less “jerking” at the end of each move? I am getting some ghosting in my prints and wanted to slow down that acceleration.

http://soliforum.com/i/?PGxlYew.jpg

Would I just change max speed to a lower number under each axis?

Or would I change acceleration and z acceleration under planner module config

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

22

Re: Bed leveling issue.

You would change it in your slicer.  As in print slower. Those are max settings as in a slicer setting will never exceed those. But you have settings in the slicer set too high for your hardware.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

23

Re: Bed leveling issue.

carl_m1968 wrote:

You would change it in your slicer.  As in print slower. Those are max settings as in a slicer setting will never exceed those. But you have settings in the slicer set too high for your hardware.

I have all of my print speeds down to 20mm/s. They’ve been at that for a long time and I still am having ghosting. Is there settings somewhere else I’m missing

Da Vinci 1.0 Azteeg x5 mini WiFi running Smoothieware, e3d v6.

24

Re: Bed leveling issue.

Then you could try dropping the acceleration in the config by half. Other than that you could have something loose that is allowing excessive vibration.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

25

Re: Bed leveling issue.

try lower motor current, motor driver current too high can cause more vibration. I also found tl-smoother greatly reduce ghosting, but you need to fix all other problems before you can see the difference. I think motor damper may also help, but I just got them and have not seriously compared the difference yet.

sometimes hotend fan can also contribute to this vibration if fan blade is not balanced. use wrong lubrication can also contribute to it.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
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