1 Topic by Tin Falcon (edited by Tin Falcon 2018-12-09 00:20:18)

  • Tin Falcon
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Topic: Sir Layersalot

I downloaded this file to print :
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3178033
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/66/1f/5b/a5/26/1238fc058e86c822777885437144919b_preview_featured.jpg
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/8d/ea/93/db/4a/ced77617d724da10e00afbfd91e3a640_preview_featured.jpg

It is reported as an easy print and since my Ultimate Maker  does a good job no problem right ?

The first print on my original extruder. and a different roll of filament  came out nice except a bit of trouble with the overhang on the sword.  near the bottom I tried  turning the model 90 degrees  and i got stringing and the back edge of the shield looked horrible.
This did correct the messy overhand on the sword. but a different anomaly happened. same settings just turned 90 about the z axis.
After several aborted attempts I think i may have a good one on the printer except it is taking a bit long to print. so still need to tweak. This is a large stl at over 18kb and slic3r struggled to slice it cura was much faster.
I ultimately got it to slice with slic3r by slowing down the small perimeters.

I think i got this but suggestions welcome . and has anyone else had a similar experience where 90% of a print comes out great but there is that one area that will  not print correctly ?

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

2 Reply by yizhou.he

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Re: Sir Layersalot

What filament spool holder mod you use? the mid of the face mask show signs of trouble to grab filament. I also got this when I tried a bad design of filament spool holder and filament guide combination, the issue pretty much show up randomly and you might think your extruder is problematic, but the actual issue is on the spool holder. Check if you can easily pull filament at extruder side. I would recommend filament spool holder with ball bearing and double check if your filament guide actually cause filament stuck.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

3 Reply by Tin Falcon (edited by Tin Falcon 2018-12-09 00:07:46)

  • Tin Falcon
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Re: Sir Layersalot

Mr He : i do need to mod the spool holder as some of the spools hang off the edge of the stock one.
I may make a longer one of pvc pipe or something.
Also i am not running through the teflon tubing .
Also getting similar results withe two different extruders and three rolls of filament one fresh out of the box packed with a humidity gauge. USA made filament.
I think the issue is with the cooling fan not cooling properly . that spot seems to be shielded by the leg. printing the thing slower did the trick.
Also i tightenend the y axis motor  belt with no improvement noticed.
Also the photo is stock  on thingiiverse a printed solid print.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

4 Reply by yizhou.he

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Re: Sir Layersalot

ah, sorry, I thought the 2nd one is your print。

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

5 Reply by Tin Falcon (edited by Tin Falcon 2018-12-09 00:01:29)

  • Tin Falcon
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Re: Sir Layersalot

no worries i did not specify.
here is a photo of my actual prints. the one on the left is a good print  with the problem more or less solved it took something like 5 hours to print. The print i basically perfect. Slight salmon skin on the shield.
The other one on the right has infill took two hours to print but looks like a tiny animal chewed on the scabbard of the sword.
There are a few droopy lines on the left side of the helmet and the bottom of the elbow. Also the print has a matt finish
this is a much better visual of the struggles i am having.

TIA for any help solutions.

Tin Falcon

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Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

6 Reply by yizhou.he

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Re: Sir Layersalot

The print on left is almost perfect, but my feeling is the nozzle temperature is too high or layer cooling fan not working right, the print have very smooth and glossy finish but lose some details, like ABS print be smoothed by Acetone.

"Filament spool holder line" on the chest but almost not noticeable. Overall the left one looks great, the right one I don't see any signs of loose belt, try reduce acceleration and jerk while allowing high speed and see if that improves. The lines on the back of shield is something I see "small quality improve" after install tl-smoother, it also improves ghost/ringing, but I can only see the difference after I fix all other quality issues.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1