Topic: Quality degradation
hello, 101hero the printer had a problem i guess. I print with simplify3d. and infill value is 100%. Looks like that in the picture. this situation has just occurred. and I don't know why.
- Kronikabuse
- Member
- Offline
Re: Quality degradation
The stinging would indicate the retraction and or temp settings are off. The rest of the problems could be any number of things. Cant really tell without more info
Sd4 #9080 with a glass bed. E3d chimera duel extruder. Paste extruder , duet wifi.
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm
Lawsy carriages. linear bearings. Y axis direct drive, Kinect scanner
SD4#8188 glass bed, lawsly carriages, E3d v6, octoprint http://www.ustream.tv/channel/hotrod96z28
Filastruder/filawinder, Custom Delta 300mm x 600mm
3 2018-11-14 21:21:14 (edited by n2ri 2018-11-14 21:24:19)
Re: Quality degradation
could also be too fast. and I rarely do more than 70% infill as it tends to over fill unless just 1 or 2 layer object like Business-card
Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs
- heartless
- Member
- Offline
Re: Quality degradation
partial clog? temperature not correct for the material used (possibly mis-labeled material)
there are a number of things that can cause issues like this.
and yes, speed could also be a factor.
n2ri wrote:
could also be too fast. and I rarely do more than 70% infill as it tends to over fill unless just 1 or 2 layer object like Business-card
if you get "overfilling" your printer is probably over-extruding (ie: extruder steps/mm are not set correctly)
a lot of people can run 100% fill with no problems at all. it all comes down to calibration, calibration, calibration.
But then again.. if you are running a machine you can't make those kinds of adjustments to, well... i guess you adjust, lol
SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1
- Tin Falcon
- Member
- Offline
Re: Quality degradation
The fact you have a 101 hero may not be helping. they are not the best printer. But again what does one expect for $100. the Low end mono price units are likely better.
Since it is what you have try to tune and calibrate the best you can .
Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura
Re: Quality degradation
I did it to find the problem. I usually print between 30% and 50%. But this problem does not always occur. As an example, I'm printing some models on the 101hero site. and beautiful print. These are gcode files. but sometimes it turns out as in the picture. it can improve in the second or third attempt. so I could not solve the problem clearly. Settings and calibration are always the same. I wonder if the weather has cooled down 
I think the environmental heat is important. and second shot attached image. But Im not changing anything or settings.
Kronikabuse wrote:
The stinging would indicate the retraction and or temp settings are off. The rest of the problems could be any number of things. Cant really tell without more info
- carl_m1968
- Member
- Offline
Re: Quality degradation
ahomag wrote:
These are gcode files.
This is the issue. A gcode file is a machine specific file. It may get you close but it was setup and done for somebody elses machine.
3D Printers are like humans. Each and everyone of them has a personality and as such all files to be printed have to be tuned to that personality. What works on one machine may get close on another or just make a mess such as in your case. What you need to be doing is getting the STL files and use them to create gcode files for your machine.
Every machine is different. You can pull two finished machines of the same model from the manufacturers assembly line back to back and each one will require different settings. They could be very close and they could require some very different settings.
I went to that 101hero site and saw many prints there that I doubt where even done on a hero101 machine. So you could be dealing with gcode files that are not even setup for a hero in the first place. I would suggest going to thingiverse.com and finding a file (STL) you want to test. Load into your host/slicer setup up the settings based on your machine and filament and see if you get the same results.
The issue with using the file you are using is that there are unknown variables in it as you have no clue what the makers settings where and therefore it would be very hard for us to help you based on unknown settings.
Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.
- heartless
- Member
- Offline
Re: Quality degradation
ahomag wrote:
These are gcode files.
carl_m1968 wrote:
This is the issue. A gcode file is a machine specific file.
Completely Agree with Carl
Never use a pre-made g-code file that YOU did not create yourself, specifically for YOUR printer!
the g-code file contains things like layer height, temperature, retraction, speed (both print speed and non-print movements), as well as material specific information and the coordinates for the actual print.
ALL of those things will be specific to a particular printer and how well tuned it is.
Anyone that tells you that it is ok to use someone else's g-code is full of it!
SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1
9 2018-11-15 13:37:37 (edited by ahomag 2018-11-15 13:42:20)
Re: Quality degradation
carl_m1968 wrote:
ahomag wrote:These are gcode files.
This is the issue. A gcode file is a machine specific file. It may get you close but it was setup and done for somebody elses machine.
3D Printers are like humans. Each and everyone of them has a personality and as such all files to be printed have to be tuned to that personality. What works on one machine may get close on another or just make a mess such as in your case. What you need to be doing is getting the STL files and use them to create gcode files for your machine.
Every machine is different. You can pull two finished machines of the same model from the manufacturers assembly line back to back and each one will require different settings. They could be very close and they could require some very different settings.
I went to that 101hero site and saw many prints there that I doubt where even done on a hero101 machine. So you could be dealing with gcode files that are not even setup for a hero in the first place. I would suggest going to thingiverse.com and finding a file (STL) you want to test. Load into your host/slicer setup up the settings based on your machine and filament and see if you get the same results.
The issue with using the file you are using is that there are unknown variables in it as you have no clue what the makers settings where and therefore it would be very hard for us to help you based on unknown settings.
I got about 50 prints. thingiverse.com is my favorite site. I've also tried a lot of stl files. As I said before, it doesn't always happen that way. in fact, it is becoming new. I thought the extruder was clogged. then opened and cleaned. however, there was no solution. I have to get the same stl file output a few times without ever changing a setting. The first print can be smooth, the second can be bad or the first print is bad, and the second can be smooth.
Re: Quality degradation
heartless wrote:
ahomag wrote:These are gcode files.
carl_m1968 wrote:This is the issue. A gcode file is a machine specific file.
Completely Agree with Carl
Never use a pre-made g-code file that YOU did not create yourself, specifically for YOUR printer!
the g-code file contains things like layer height, temperature, retraction, speed (both print speed and non-print movements), as well as material specific information and the coordinates for the actual print.
ALL of those things will be specific to a particular printer and how well tuned it is.Anyone that tells you that it is ok to use someone else's g-code is full of it!
In fact, I told you to be a sample of the gcode file. my overall problem I encountered for stl files.
Let's not hang out there, fellas.
- carl_m1968
- Member
- Offline
Re: Quality degradation
ahomag wrote:
carl_m1968 wrote:ahomag wrote:These are gcode files.
This is the issue. A gcode file is a machine specific file. It may get you close but it was setup and done for somebody elses machine.
3D Printers are like humans. Each and everyone of them has a personality and as such all files to be printed have to be tuned to that personality. What works on one machine may get close on another or just make a mess such as in your case. What you need to be doing is getting the STL files and use them to create gcode files for your machine.
Every machine is different. You can pull two finished machines of the same model from the manufacturers assembly line back to back and each one will require different settings. They could be very close and they could require some very different settings.
I went to that 101hero site and saw many prints there that I doubt where even done on a hero101 machine. So you could be dealing with gcode files that are not even setup for a hero in the first place. I would suggest going to thingiverse.com and finding a file (STL) you want to test. Load into your host/slicer setup up the settings based on your machine and filament and see if you get the same results.
The issue with using the file you are using is that there are unknown variables in it as you have no clue what the makers settings where and therefore it would be very hard for us to help you based on unknown settings.
50 civarında baskı aldım. thingiverse.com en sevdiğim site. bir çok stl dosyası da denedim. daha önce söylediğim gibi her zaman bu şekilde olmuyor. aslında yeni olmaya başladı. ben extruder in tıkandığını düşündüm. sonra açıp temizledim. ancak çözüm olmadı. aynı stl dosyasını hiç bir ayar değiştirmeden bir kaç kez çıktı almak zorunda kalıyorum. ilk baskı düzgün, ikincisi kötü olabiliyor yada ilk baskı kötü, ikincisi düzgün olabiliyor.
I got about 50 prints. thingiverse.com is my favorite site. I've also tried a lot of stl files. As I said before, it doesn't always happen that way. in fact, it is becoming new. I thought the extruder was clogged. then opened and cleaned. however, there was no solution. I have to get the same stl file output a few times without ever changing a setting. The first print can be smooth, the second can be bad or the first print is bad, and the second can be smooth.
How long has the filament been on the machine exposed to air and moisture. If the issue recently started and is getting worse then it sounds like it could be moisture in your filament. If you live in a humid area the filament needs to be stored in a drybox when you are not actually printing.
It should be on the machine only long enough to print. Even if you don't live in a humid area it will still absorb moisture over time. You should never use filament that has sat in open air more than a month without drying it with different methods posted a round the net.
I myself store the filament in a freezer. This keeps it dry. It can also be used to dry filament if you take an old spool and place in the freezer fro about a week. It works. I took a spool that was sitting open on a shelf for over a year. Put in the freezer for a week then tried printing with it after letting it warm to room temp and printed as well as a new roll.
Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.
Re: Quality degradation
carl_m1968 wrote:
ahomag wrote:carl_m1968 wrote:This is the issue. A gcode file is a machine specific file. It may get you close but it was setup and done for somebody elses machine.
3D Printers are like humans. Each and everyone of them has a personality and as such all files to be printed have to be tuned to that personality. What works on one machine may get close on another or just make a mess such as in your case. What you need to be doing is getting the STL files and use them to create gcode files for your machine.
Every machine is different. You can pull two finished machines of the same model from the manufacturers assembly line back to back and each one will require different settings. They could be very close and they could require some very different settings.
I went to that 101hero site and saw many prints there that I doubt where even done on a hero101 machine. So you could be dealing with gcode files that are not even setup for a hero in the first place. I would suggest going to thingiverse.com and finding a file (STL) you want to test. Load into your host/slicer setup up the settings based on your machine and filament and see if you get the same results.
The issue with using the file you are using is that there are unknown variables in it as you have no clue what the makers settings where and therefore it would be very hard for us to help you based on unknown settings.
50 civarında baskı aldım. thingiverse.com en sevdiğim site. bir çok stl dosyası da denedim. daha önce söylediğim gibi her zaman bu şekilde olmuyor. aslında yeni olmaya başladı. ben extruder in tıkandığını düşündüm. sonra açıp temizledim. ancak çözüm olmadı. aynı stl dosyasını hiç bir ayar değiştirmeden bir kaç kez çıktı almak zorunda kalıyorum. ilk baskı düzgün, ikincisi kötü olabiliyor yada ilk baskı kötü, ikincisi düzgün olabiliyor.
I got about 50 prints. thingiverse.com is my favorite site. I've also tried a lot of stl files. As I said before, it doesn't always happen that way. in fact, it is becoming new. I thought the extruder was clogged. then opened and cleaned. however, there was no solution. I have to get the same stl file output a few times without ever changing a setting. The first print can be smooth, the second can be bad or the first print is bad, and the second can be smooth.
How long has the filament been on the machine exposed to air and moisture. If the issue recently started and is getting worse then it sounds like it could be moisture in your filament. If you live in a humid area the filament needs to be stored in a drybox when you are not actually printing.
It should be on the machine only long enough to print. Even if you don't live in a humid area it will still absorb moisture over time. You should never use filament that has sat in open air more than a month without drying it with different methods posted a round the net.
I myself store the filament in a freezer. This keeps it dry. It can also be used to dry filament if you take an old spool and place in the freezer fro about a week. It works. I took a spool that was sitting open on a shelf for over a year. Put in the freezer for a week then tried printing with it after letting it warm to room temp and printed as well as a new roll.
Yes, it has been around for about 1.5 months. I never thought of hiding in a closed environment. and there is absolutely moisture. I suspected the ambient temperature for the problem. Humidity was the second reason.
thank you.