First DLP prints

looks great

Thanks guys.
Quite a change from FDM, got a lot to learn !

I got my D7 for two weeks now, spend first week just to find out D7 box will not work with space in file name. Now stuck on trying to get the print stick to the build plate. The print stuck on the bottom of vat very tight for whatever reason but not on build plate. Many guide suggest it is bed leveling issue, but tried redo the bed leveling three times, the print still stuck in the bottom.

My build plate is V1.5, it is polished metal looking, not black. The plate looks flat, but I assume there are more advance method to find it out than look with naked eye? All my cure setting is default, I will have to check when I got home tonight. I have no idea how to optimize these setting since I have not got one successful print yet, so stick with recommended setting.

"You also have to arrange your model so there is always more surface area in contact with the plate than the film. In SLA you also have to arrange the model so that the smallest cross section possible is being printed."
I arrange my model the way I arrange in FDM machine, will that cause the problem? I thought the surface area in contact with the plate and the film is the same for the first layer, I must mis-understood something here. Is smallest cross section easier to stick to build plate? It would be very helpful if you can post some link if it is too much trouble tying, thanks.

That make sense. I'm using CW to slice the model to sd card, and print from D7 box with sd card.

I'm still bit confused about the NanoDLP right now. My D7 come with D7 box, which is kind of raspberry pi thing, I think functionally raspberry pi+ NanoDLP=D7 box, correct? I need to flash D7 firmware that support NanoDLP to work with raspberry pi+ NanoDLP, correct? Do I still need NanoDLP if I already have D7 box?

In that case, NonoDLP+raspberry pi is cheap alternative of D7 box without touch screen then. I would definitely use it if my D7 doesn't come with D7 box. Right now my issue is first layer adhesion, I will try rotate my model in CW and see if that make adhesion easier.

The print stuck to the film really well, I don't know if I need to replace the film, will old film cause the same adhesion problem?

I thought my D7 was broken until I cranked the first layer exposure way way up. I was just starting to figure optimal exposure times when I had to pack up to move. I'm hoping to start playing with my D7 again this week. Carl's advice about object orientation is spot on. Carl is the D7 Lawsy. LOL

The default setting on the Anycubic slicer is 8 base layers at 50 seconds which works well.
Another tip to prevent prints sticking to the vat is to hollow the model and use drainage holes.
The holes allow resin to drain out and also help prevent suction forces.
Depending on the print, a raft can also provide better adhesion to the build plate.

1/4 scale treefrog is on a quarter. First successful print from my d7!