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Topic: nozzle diameter vs heat question

at this time I am using a .4mm nozzle but am thinking of upgrading to a .5mm nozzle. Will the larger diameter have trouble keeping the filament up to temp.

Thanks
Dale

Ultimaker S3.

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Re: nozzle diameter vs heat question

Filament acts like a heatsink if you are familiar with that term. As it flows through the nozzle it pulls heat away with it. So naturally the more filament that flows through or the faster is flows through then the more heat will be pulled away. A bigger nozzle will not fix the issue. Most people use a .4 nozzle. There are two fixes. One is going slower or two is adding more heat. You need enough heat so that during long runs where filament is fed the temp on the nozzle does not drop more than a degree or two.

When was the last time you ran a PID auto tune? This is only possible on an open source machine or a Da Vinci converted to Ramps. But it is a necessary step for proper machine calibration and the heaters on both the nozzle and the bed do need to be calibrated. When you run a PID auto tune it will heat the target and will run some stuff in the background and eventually spit out 3 values. Those values need to be plugged into the firmware in their respective places under the hotend and bed settings. These values control the rate of heating and the amount the temp pis allowed to rise and fall before removing or applying heat.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

3 (edited by dubbsd 2018-06-02 11:50:31)

Re: nozzle diameter vs heat question

unfortunately Makerbot is closed source and you can not pid tune it.
that was one of the first things I tried when I got it..

Thanks Dale

Ultimaker S3.

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Re: nozzle diameter vs heat question

I don't think 0.5mm will be a problem for heating up. Assuming your heating element is 40W or better. I have been print with 0.5mm nozzle for a long time to save printing time at cost of resolution. The overall strength of print are much better. You need to use different flow rate for different layer height for best result. I would not recommend it if you want good resolution.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

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Re: nozzle diameter vs heat question

dubbsd wrote:

unfortunately Makerbot is closed source and you can not pid tune it.
that was one of the first things I tried when I got it..

Thanks Dale


You should look into Sailfish Firmware.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

6

Re: nozzle diameter vs heat question

dubbsd wrote:

unfortunately Makerbot is closed source and you can not pid tune it.
that was one of the first things I tried when I got it..

Thanks Dale


You should look into Sailfish Firmware. Or do what I did and swap out the mainboard and LCD for a Panucatt Devices Azteeg X3 Pro and a Viki II LCD. Then your machine will be open source and can use Marlin. I can supply  with a copy of mine that should have you up and running. My CT'c is a direct copy of your Makerbot.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.