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Topic: Cheap vs. Quality

I thought it might be interesting and useful to have a respectful discussion of the merits of cheap vs. quality parts and solutions.

I'm here because I bought a Solidoodle 2 when they went on sale. And i bought it because it was the cheapest printer available at the time. I wanted to learn about 3d printing and didn't want to spend a lot of money. I'm sure many of us who bought a Solidoodle did so for reasons of thrift.

I'm a thrifty guy. When it comes to modding, fixing, or upgrading my printer I want the cheapest solution that will perform to my needs for a reasonable amount of time. I'm a hobbyist and don't mind a bit screwing around if I learn something or save a few bucks. Sometimes I go quality, sometimes I go cheap. For example, when I wanted a new hot end, I went genuine E3d because I felt the money was worth the confidence I would have in its performance. I'm quite happy though it's a v5 and can be a bit finicky with PLA. When i built my Lawsy carriages, I found that quality American bearings would be a little pricey vs. Chinese eBay bearings. I ordered 3 times what I needed for a price that was still quite a bit lower. I chose the best of the batch to put in my printer and they glide like butter. I took a gamble and it paid off.

Anyhow my thoughts on the subject:

Pros of quality
Reliable and Dependable
Longer lasting
Less time screwing with your printer and more time printing

Cons of quality
Expense
Availability (sometimes)

Pros of Cheap
Price
Availability (sometimes)
Feeling that you got pro performance for gutter prices

Cons of Cheap
Quality (sometimes can be offset by buying in volume)
Time (waste of your time if cheap part does not work or wears quickly)
Money (if you buy total crap that you just have to throw away)

While I applaud those of you here who always advocate for quality, and generally agree, there are times when I would like to know about the cheap option as well. A cheap part might perform long enough for me to save enough for the better one. A cheap fix might get me printing again while I wait for my quality part to ship. And, I'm somewhere in the middle on this one, some people have more time to spend on their hobby than they do money.

I'm interested to hear what others have to say on the subject.

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Re: Cheap vs. Quality

I'm a thrifty guy. When it comes to modding, fixing, or upgrading my printer I want the cheapest solution that will perform to my needs for a reasonable amount of time. I'm a hobbyist and don't mind a bit screwing around if I learn something or save a few bucks. Sometimes I go quality, sometimes I go cheap. For example, when I wanted a new hot end, I went genuine E3d because I felt the money was worth the confidence I would have in its performance. I'm quite happy though it's a v5 and can be a bit finicky with PLA. When i built my Lawsy carriages, I found that quality American bearings would be a little pricey vs. Chinese eBay bearings. I ordered 3 times what I needed for a price that was still quite a bit lower. I chose the best of the batch to put in my printer and they glide like butter. I took a gamble and it paid off.

I have 4 printers at this point a used sd4. took a little effort to lear and get good prints. Two folger tech kits they were kit builds with a couple missing parts. And a monoprice mini that some one had returned.

I think most of us here have a mixture of good and cheap.
You need to shop around compare price and quality.
and this subject has been beat to death over and over in some form or another.
Just type the tittle of this post in the search block and you will see.
This can be a volatile subject almost as heated as politics.
Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

3

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

there is a BIG difference between being "thrifty" and being "cheap".

thrifty is getting the most out of the money spent... "using money and other resources carefully and not wastefully."
cheap is spending the least amount possible... "costing very little; relatively low in price; inexpensive."

being penny wise and dollar foolish seems to be a common issue in 3d printing.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

4 (edited by yizhou.he 2018-05-06 20:03:19)

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

justsomeguy wrote:

I thought it might be interesting and useful to have a respectful discussion of the merits of cheap vs. quality parts and solutions.

I'm here because I bought a Solidoodle 2 when they went on sale. And i bought it because it was the cheapest printer available at the time. I wanted to learn about 3d printing and didn't want to spend a lot of money. I'm sure many of us who bought a Solidoodle did so for reasons of thrift.

I'm a thrifty guy. When it comes to modding, fixing, or upgrading my printer I want the cheapest solution that will perform to my needs for a reasonable amount of time. I'm a hobbyist and don't mind a bit screwing around if I learn something or save a few bucks. Sometimes I go quality, sometimes I go cheap. For example, when I wanted a new hot end, I went genuine E3d because I felt the money was worth the confidence I would have in its performance. I'm quite happy though it's a v5 and can be a bit finicky with PLA. When i built my Lawsy carriages, I found that quality American bearings would be a little pricey vs. Chinese eBay bearings. I ordered 3 times what I needed for a price that was still quite a bit lower. I chose the best of the batch to put in my printer and they glide like butter. I took a gamble and it paid off.

Anyhow my thoughts on the subject:

Pros of quality
Reliable and Dependable
Longer lasting
Less time screwing with your printer and more time printing

Cons of quality
Expense
Availability (sometimes)

Pros of Cheap
Price
Availability (sometimes)
Feeling that you got pro performance for gutter prices

Cons of Cheap
Quality (sometimes can be offset by buying in volume)
Time (waste of your time if cheap part does not work or wears quickly)
Money (if you buy total crap that you just have to throw away)

While I applaud those of you here who always advocate for quality, and generally agree, there are times when I would like to know about the cheap option as well. A cheap part might perform long enough for me to save enough for the better one. A cheap fix might get me printing again while I wait for my quality part to ship. And, I'm somewhere in the middle on this one, some people have more time to spend on their hobby than they do money.

I'm interested to hear what others have to say on the subject.

I think you have pretty good summary of the pros and cons of quality and cheap, and I think I agree with pretty much all of them. I want to add some respectful discussion about factors that you did not covered and get ignored in the most of the discussion--personal preference.

I agree with the saying most of the time, "You get what you paid for". Stuff that cost lot more usually have its reasons, the dollar price usually reflect how much human labor behind the product for a good reason. The question is do you really need the extra quality or service that you are paying for. I still have some high quality macbooks running os6.5, they are solid build and still work just fine but I don't really use them for obvious reasons. There are practical limits for how good quality parts you want it to be. But why people pay for the quantity or quality they don't necessary need? I think answer to this question are very much personal preference. Factors includes but not limited to:
Are you big fan of 3D printing?
If you are, you want the best of everything on your printer. You can give up time spend with your family and save your beer money to install a latest hotend upgrade, there is nothing wrong with that.
If you are not a big fan of 3D printing, 3D printer is just a tool, a machine, you probably just want to spend minimal amount of money to get it work. Just think about the regular printers, I have two 2D color laser jet printer at home, if they break, and I can not fix it in 2 hours, they are going to end up in recycle bins. Am I willing to upgrade their laser bean and lens to achieve doubled resolution? No!

Can you profit from 3D printing? 
There is a guy in facebook group have 20 Monoprice maker select v2, and he decide to sell them all and switch to 20 Monoprice maker select plus. Sounds crazy, but he use them to print cookie cutters and profit from it. That makes big difference I think.

What do you enjoy?
Some people enjoy turn their 3D design into reality, they don't really care what mod they can make or how much the filament cost, they don't necessary want most fancy machine with most fancy part, but they want as problem free as possible.
Some people enjoy add almost every mod possible to improve their machine.
I enjoy machine repair. I have 20+ different brand 3D printer, bid from ebay for parts, $50-$150 each, I enjoy get them back running again and print reliably with minimal cost. I don't consider 3D printing as my hobby because I have 20+ laptop at home for the same reason. It's like some of my friend enjoy repair human with minimal cost, they call themselves doctor. 

I think it is a lot easier to go quality, the most challenging part is have the money. But you need to know a lot to go cheap without compromise the print quality and reliably. No matter what decision you make, cheap or quality, keep in mind that in hobby business, what you buy is not the product, but your happiness, as long as you enjoy it, nothing else matters. (If you can afford it)

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

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Re: Cheap vs. Quality

I recently read in another thread the amount of use heartless' machines see and I can say undoubtedly that if my machines were seeing that kind of use I'd put nothing but the finest quality parts in them.

Another time when cheap parts can be useful is experimentation. My Geetech is due for a rebuild. I figure I can drop in Lawsy carriages and a Lawsy extruder and make it a full Solidoodle clone. I ordered a $8 e3d clone hotend for this build. It will definitely work as a placeholder to see if it all goes together. If it all works out, I'll put in a quality hotend when the clone dies. If for some reason I can't make it work, I won't have a pricey e3d sitting around doing nothing.

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Re: Cheap vs. Quality

I would certainly prefer to spend more money for better quality. But when you are just starting to find out with 3d printers, for example, then I took the cheapest one to see if I want to do this in the future.

7

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

butlerharry516 wrote:

I would certainly prefer to spend more money for better quality. But when you are just starting to find out with 3d printers, for example, then I took the cheapest one to see if I want to do this in the future.

and there in a nutshell is the #1, most common mistake.

Buying cheap just to "test things out" will more often lead to being completely disheartened by the whole thing and giving up on it, while buying something of better quality generally provides better results.

I am not suggesting you purchase a $3000 machine right out of the gate, but don't go with the absolute rock bottom cheapest, either.

Research, educate yourself, and find a decent, well supported machine* that is reasonably priced as a first go. there are decent machines out there for under $500.

* by "well supported" I mean both manufacturer support as well as "community of users" support.
When the other half decided he wanted to get a 3d printer, he researched for several months before taking the plunge and buying a used Solidoodle 4. The biggest reason for buying that particular model was this community of users, right here (Soliforum).

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

8

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

heartless wrote:

Buying cheap just to "test things out" will more often lead to being completely disheartened by the whole thing and giving up on it, while buying something of better quality generally provides better results.

THAT, RIGHT THERE!  that is probably the #1 reason why a lot of people walk away from this hobby.

To print or, 3D print, that is the question...
SD3 printer w/too many mods,  Printrbot Simple Maker Ed.,  FormLabs Form 1+
AnyCubic Photon, Shining 3D EinScan-S & Atlas 3D scanners...
...and too much time on my hands.

9

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

agreed cheap anything can ruin the experience of many hobbies

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

10

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

I read about 3d printing and joined this group for about a year before I bought my first printer which was a solidoodle 2.
Just starting out I had a lot of problems. ( I thought it was a piece of junk) so I Spent more money and bought a Makerbor 2X
(Dual extruder)  which is a propitiatory machine which was also a mistake.  in the last 6 years I have learned a lot about 3d printing and realize now that 90% of the problems with the Solidoodle was Operator error!

Thanks
Dale

Ultimaker S3.

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Re: Cheap vs. Quality

My first printer is/was an sd4 used of of e bay. I researched here and the SD web page and learned a lot. I also have a friend in the business well became a friend. And another friend who is an engineer and taught 3d printing at the college level. His advice to me was you need to let the machine teach you what it needs. Very sound advice.
IIRC i got the printer late July or early August. Sept of 2014 the three of us attended the E-Nable conference in Baltimore. Of course on of the common questioned asked was do you own a 3d  printer . followed by what kind. John Schull the professor from RIT . Asked me those questions. When ii responded with a solidoodle 4 his reaction were you able to get it to work. I pulled my copy of the Maltese falcon from my pocket and showed him. And his response was I guess you did. Apparently Solidoodle had donated a couple printers to his lab and the results were not so favorable.

One almost needs to look at a 3d printer as a robot with a personality. Or maybe initially as a baby robot It has needs and the operator needs to figure them out. Give it what it needs and it is happy.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

12

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

Tin Falcon wrote:

One almost needs to look at a 3d printer as a robot with a personality. Or maybe initially as a baby robot It has needs and the operator needs to figure them out. Give it what it needs and it is happy.

Great analogy, Tin.

I currently have two SD4s, and yeah, each one has it's own little quirks.
About to pick up a 3rd one.
should be interesting figuring out what it needs.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

13 (edited by n2ri 2018-11-10 22:08:06)

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

when running multiples of same make/model 3D printer off same PC how does it keep correct info going to correct printer? thinking of adding more SD2 units to my setup & virtual printers are not same as true printer ports

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

14

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

I would think it would be as simple as a separate profile for each printer You can name a profile in repetier anything you want .
Name your printer after star ships, states ,presidents, animals whatever and you make make corresponding labels for the physical printer.
Joseph prusa runs over 200 printers in his print farm so running multiple printers is quite doable.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

15 (edited by heartless 2018-11-11 00:50:25)

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

Not "quite" that simple, Tin..
if they are running the same type of controller board, and the same firmware, there CAN be issues.
Both SD4 #1 & #2 are in that situation. They are both running the same board (Rumba) & firmware.
I have to run them from separate USB connections on the computer.. as in one in the back, and one in the front, or from a powered hub.
If I try to run both from the stock rear USB ports, there ARE issues.

running two different boards makes it a bit easier as they use different drivers for the COM ports - thus the computer knows the difference.
I have run as many as 4 printers from one computer - 2 with the exact same controller board/firmware setup (the SD4s), but running from different USB sources (1 front, 1 back), and the other 2 running different boards.. one was a RAMPs (the FT Kossel) the other was an MKS board (the FT-5).

Now, the SD4 I just brought home is still running on the stock Printrboard.. so I can easily run it from the same computer as the other 2, just need to find the correct driver for it again, LOL

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

16

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

If I where ever going to set up a farm or run multiple printers then I would simply do what I do now and not even have a PC running or connected to the printer. My main FDM has a Viki II display from Panucatt devices which has a micro SDcard port right on the front. I just slice all the files I want to print and then put them on the sdcard as gcode files and access them through the LCD.

The only time I have a computer connected to that machine is when I am tuning it and need access to the firmware or control of it.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

17

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

Carl that is fine if the printer has an sd card as most of mine do. but heartless and N2ri have multiple solidoodle printers. they do not have that option.

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

18

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

Tin Falcon wrote:

Carl that is fine if the printer has an sd card as most of mine do. but heartless and N2ri have multiple solidoodle printers. they do not have that option.


That was my point. If the SD has such issues then it might not be the best to consider for a print farm of say 5 plus printers. Of course since I only have three and they all have unique purposes I am probably just flapping my jaws. I personally cannot imagine ever finding a market or enough customers that would require me to run 3 printers at the same time, much less 200. I guess Texas is just not on the 3d printing parade yet. The only business I have been able to drum up is printing custom made light pipes for my employer. Even then they only need one or two a year.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

19 (edited by n2ri 2018-11-11 11:12:40)

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

carl_m1968 wrote:
Tin Falcon wrote:

Carl that is fine if the printer has an sd card as most of mine do. but heartless and N2ri have multiple solidoodle printers. they do not have that option.


That was my point. If the SD has such issues then it might not be the best to consider for a print farm of say 5 plus printers. Of course since I only have three and they all have unique purposes I am probably just flapping my jaws. I personally cannot imagine ever finding a market or enough customers that would require me to run 3 printers at the same time, much less 200. I guess Texas is just not on the 3d printing parade yet. The only business I have been able to drum up is printing custom made light pipes for my employer. Even then they only need one or two a year.


well if I didnt have SD2 printers already which as Heartless explained have to 1st find said printers virtual com ports each time powered on and cant do that if they look the same to PC.
then if I had money for 4 newer costlier FDM printers I would likely use 1 of  the new liquid resin 3D printers that use air to help speed normal process by 100x therefore only needing to run the 1 printer to output faster than 4+ high end FDM printers at more efficient  cost and less investment. so lets stay focused on my OP please and not adlib pipe dreams ok? dont know of any FDM printer that can finish an item normally taking several hours to print, in under 8mins.

SD cards are just another option on some higher priced printers which should also have a pause/continue print feature too for power outages or other interruptions like any high end printer including my old Alps MD1300 paper die-sublimation photo/decal ready unit has for ink cartridge replacement. also need UPS battery backup so prints can finish if power goes off. but all that is not what I asked. so We still need more info for my OP question.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

20

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

seems most members on here have not yet enjoyed their 3D printer loosing its com port due to other USB devices that sync or use bi directional com port being installed or used while 3D printer was off line and the other device permanently high jacked its com port. that issue can also happen with other 3D printers just not usually permanent just interrupting other same units before or during print. search my archives about 6+ years ago for how I know this will happen and how it ruins your month trying to find why 3D printer no longer connects and even SD techs had no clue about it. I had to learn about it myself and since I have always assigned com port in high number like 12-24 so other devices wont grab 1st port not used/assigned again and steal my 3D printers com port as SD printers only check like com 3,5 or an assigned port in cinfig settings. and if you have as many devices and profiles as my Thinkpads and dock stations do that wont cut it. I can connect 24 devices to my Thinkpads and some of them on USB just grab next available when connected. same as my hot swap drive  bays can.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

21 (edited by n2ri 2018-11-11 10:49:57)

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

I would think since these 3D printers use printer boards they should be able to install like other printers by serial number ID in the hardware/board so PC recognizes each unit not only for drivers but independent communication. when selected. RH dont have multi connect ability so needs separate app running for each printer just like if I print a document on my Canon printer while printing a photo on my Alps have to open 2 separate print command windows and cant run more than 1 on Parallel or serial or same USB controller. its why I keep some devices on old cables.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

22 (edited by n2ri 2018-11-12 08:08:52)

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

now remember this is over 3 years old so... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihR9SX7dgRo

also its an extremely over priced lease agreement that you never own is why its dormant still. who wants to pay $10,000 for a dumb training course then 3 year lease @ $40,000 per year for a borrowed 3D printer when industrial powder printers are available for less to purchase.

hence I stick with what I have that gets the job done good enough til better affordable option comes.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

23

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

seems most members on here have not yet enjoyed their 3D printer loosing its com port due to other USB devices that sync or use bi directional com port being installed or used while 3D printer was off line and the other device permanently high jacked its com port.

ok, here is the thing, when setting up my printers COM ports - I manually change the COM number to something higher.. leaving the lower level numbers for other devices.. this is SUPER easy to do and then you no longer have that issue.
SD4 #1 is COM 13 (yes, I deliberately chose this number, lol)
SD4 #2 is COM 15, and everything else is higher from there.

When you first connect the printer, yeah, the computer will assign a number, but once that is done, you can change it to whatever you want that is not currently in use (up to 256) and the computer will remember that COM setting for every future connection to that printer.

As for the LCD/SD thing - those are not that hard to add to pretty much any printer. You don't want to be tethered, add one!
Or, Look into setting up a pi & Octoprint.. There ARE other options out there.

Yes, I run mine tethered to the computer, it works for me - for now. I like the control I have over ever aspect of the print job - i can adjust the hotend and/or bed temp, feed rate & flow rate on the fly with just the click of the mouse.
With a print running from SD card it is not quite as easy to do - too much digging through menus for my tastes. (yes, I have a printer that has the LCD/SD card reader - i never use that part of it)

I am frequently running both of the SD4s at the same time, and, recently, could have used a 3rd one... which I now have in my possession. smile

On the other hand.. the Duet & Panel Due touch screen combo is very nice! super easy to make adjustments on the fly. But I rarely use the machine that has this setup for "production" stuff because it has the Volcano on it, and most of the stuff I am running needs the smaller nozzle size for the details and/or needs smaller layer heights..

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

24

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

Repetier-Server identify your printer by serial number of the main board instead of com port number, assign different name to your printer will make things easy. I tried connect 4 printer at the same time and it works very well. Major issue with repetier-server is often caused by windows 10 automatic upgrade, don't forget to disable automatic upgrade.

You can also install OctoPrint server on windows 10 or linux machine, but I'm not sure if OctoPrint identify printer by serial number or COM port.

You can assign different printer name in firmware or with M550 command, you can find out which printer you connected to in the log window.

For more advanced user, you can change product ID in the firmware, and then modify the USB driver .inf file add corresponding product id and product name assigned to different printer. Then your printer will be recognized as different product from same vendor and whatever name you want will show up after the COM port in device manager.  Major disadvantage is you need to disable windows driver signature enforcement.

(Da Vinci 1.0, Jr. 1.0 RAMPS, miniMaker) X4, (Creality CR-10S, CR-10 mini, Ender-3) X4, Anycubic MEGA X4, Anycubic Chrion X1, ADMILAB Gantry X2 (MonoPrice Maker Select V2, Plus, Ultimate)X4--Select mini X1, Anycubic photon X4, Wanhao duplicate D7 X1.
iNSTONE Inventor Pro X2, CTC Dual X2, ANET-A8, Hictop 3DP-11, Solidoodle Press, FLSUN I3 2017X1

25

Re: Cheap vs. Quality

raspberry pis are cheap. You don't need the latest one to run a FDM printer. I have four printers and I run each one off its own raspberry pi.