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Topic: Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming

Thanks to all the help this forum has given me so far I've eliminated my y-axis shift, replaced my belts and have gotten my printer to work better than it has in years. I have one last problem, I need some advice on.
I can print a couple of things and they come out okay not perfect but usable. However any long jobs or repeat jobs and I'll get a jam after a couple of hours. The filament bends just between the hot end and the feed gear. My hotend is stock and has never been replaced. Would replacing the hotend fix this?

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Re: Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming

In a word, yep.
But it's more involved than that.  Go with a genuine E3d V6 or lite 6.  Get the correct Mk6 extruder assembly.  Flash the firmware to work correctly with the new thermistor and Max temp settings.  Most info found in the WIKI is still pertinent and will give you an idea of what's involved.  The E3d is much more precise so Moiré will become an issue.  This can be eliminated mostly with proper VREF tuning.

Do your research and decide for yourself.  Then take the plung and never look back.

Find what you need at our site a few of us here started to help with exactly this type of thing.
https://www.printitindustries.com/

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming

The fan on the extruder heatsink of my SD2 almost always fails to come on when I power up the printer. It needs a little push to get going. If I forget to do this, heat builds up to the point where the drive gear is hot enough to soften the plastic and cause this problem after it's been running for a while. Could that be your problem?

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Re: Upgraded hotend to prevent jamming

Could be I'll check that.