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Topic: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

Hello all,
I'm having a bit of issue with this head, I get a print or two out if I clean with acetone but if I let it cool down then I get a blockage. I am printing with ABS and have changed the retraction to 0.5 mm and I am printing at 225 deg C. I have attached a few pictures so you can see what the setup is and how deep the blockage goes.

Cheers
Rob

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/723/33302527015_548fd4c7be_o_d.jpg

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/745/32487925463_1730d59a6d_o_d.jpg

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3796/32459627574_854c5bf431_o_d.jpg

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2927/33174467981_75162186be_o_d.jpg

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Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

225 is on the low side for ABS temps.
Before you start tearing your machine apart, heat the nozzle to around 260, remove the tension spring, and ram a section of ABS in and pull it right back out by hand. If this works, start printing again around 232. This normally works

If it does not work, then you can try letting it soak in acetone.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

Way too cold!!! Turn up the heat.  No reason ABS can't run up into the 240 range.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

I increased the temperature to 260 deg C and tried pushing in filament, the end does melt slightly, I tried reassembling then tried feeding some filament in using the motor. I have attached a video of the results. The wheels turn but seem to bounce back. Weirdly there is some oozing from the head.

Cheers
Rob

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Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

The last time I saw that behavior the filament had bulges that were so big it would get stuck in the cold end and jam.  The fact that filament is oozing tells us your nozzle is not clogged.  So this can be one of two things.
1. The filament has inconsistent diameter and is jamming well before it reaches the melt zone.
2. Your E3d is assembled incorrectly and is leaking between the nozzle and heat break.

Keep at it and we will try our best to help.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

6 (edited by heartless 2017-03-09 20:11:56)

Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

looking at your pictures, your heatbreak is not installed correctly... it should be screwed into the heater block further - right up to the top of the threads where the short smooth section is... (see pics below), then the nozzle gets screwed tightly against it.. there should be a small gap between the nozzle and heater block when you are done.

http://soliforum.com/i/?RvUYZIA.jpg

http://soliforum.com/i/?5gy9KaV.jpg

http://soliforum.com/i/?Z3hjEOo.jpg

and temps - I run between 235-240C for ABS, depending on the exact brand/color being used

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

Thanks Heartless, I have cleaned the head a reassembled it. I refollowed the wiki page, and heat break was still where it was before. Turns out I needed to loosen it a quarter of a turn to get it to sit flush. I will let you know how I get on with it.

Cheers
Rob


https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6 … mbly_Steps

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Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

I increased the temperature to 235 deg C but we still have the bounce so did come through. I have measured the filament and it appear to be 1.60 to 1.70 at several places on the spool.

Cheers
Rob

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Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

robert.a.downs wrote:

Thanks Heartless, I have cleaned the head a reassembled it. I refollowed the wiki page, and heat break was still where it was before. Turns out I needed to loosen it a quarter of a turn to get it to sit flush. I will let you know how I get on with it.

Cheers
Rob


https://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6 … mbly_Steps


Personally, I think they should rewrite that to install the heatbreak first then install the nozzle, but yeah, if you look at their pictures, the heatbreak is sitting where it should be - the short threaded section is flush with the top of the heat block.

if you are still getting the "bounce/jumping" from the extruder motor, you may need to turn the voltage up just a hair at the stepper driver.

also, undersized filament may be a part of the problem... the teeth of the drive gear may not be getting enough grip on it to feed properly.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: Solidoodle 2 pro with e3d v6 head blockage

Pushing filament in by hand doesn't extrude any plastic so will upping the voltage help?

Cheers
Rob