Replacing the Filament feeding system (Page 1 of 2)

@HyruleJedi86 - you can't change that in firmware or due to design rotate/mirror extruder so your left with:
1. Force conector on other way round (maybe it's easier at the logic board side)
2. Cut the wires and solder them back together mirrored
3. Attach little extension patch leads (good for testing but bad in long term if they are not secured properly)

I thought about rotating the add-on but it would put the press fit piece facing downward and the piece isn't threaded to just move it facing upward again. I think I'm going to do what you suggested in #3, patch leads in until I can find what kind of plug is used and buy the corresponding version to wire to my other motor.

Thanks! Any idea what the plug is?

I saw that thread, I was hoping the OP there would document his build but I haven't heard anything from him. So this works good for me so far. I like neat things and having the Nema 17 outside the davinci case was a possibility but I'm glad I figured out how to put it inside the case. I'm not sure how much cooling is required of the motor since the factory motor wasn't cooled, I can't imagine this one would get much hotter. I'm just hoping that I get better prints since the factory printer has been repeatedly failing everytime I print something.

I printed a test print last night but didn't have time to check it this morning before heading to work. Hopefully everything came out OK and I'm set again.

That looks great! I just bought  90 degree bracket from amazon for $6 and mounted it that way using the same feeder I posted earlier. I just switched my factory motor to a new one and rigged up a way to plug it in. I'm doing another test print but the first one printed OK, it could be better so I'm doing a different part and will see how it works.

Hey Bozotclown,
I'll share what I have done. I think I mentioned it earlier in the thread, but the Filament feeder that attaches to the extruder I originally bought was facing the wrong direction. You'll want one that is reversed if you plan to use the factory stepper. You mention it's gone bad but in case it isn't the stepper that has gone bad but rather the feeding system this is important. If you need a new stepper you will have to decide how you are going to attach the new motor to the circuit board. I'll share what I did even though it's a little janky, it works.

Firstly a new mount, here is the 90* mount I used to attach my motor to the frame using the same screws as what is holding the factory one in place:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q6 … &psc=1

Next, I bought this stepper feeder combo:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011Q … &psc=1

Because I did not want to cut the factory wires at all I had to try and either find a connector that fit the factory one (I never could) or think of something else. I ended up buying this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV … &psc=1

Then I cut the new motor's wires short, soldered them to four of those wires from above and just pushed the pins into the factory connector until I found out which combination spun the motor in the right direction. Simply mount the bracket to the frame then mount the motor to the bracket, screw the adapter that the guide tube goes into and you should be good to go. Doing it this way allows me to keep using the same factory spool holder and keep a clean look.

Hope this helps, you can see the pics I posted in the original post but I have noticed that EVERYTHING prints significantly better than anything that ever printed with the factory one.

No worries, it can be hard to follow these threads sometimes. Hopefully, what I wrote makes sense for you. I realized the only thing I left out was the adapter that screws into the top of the filament feeder so you can attach the guide tube to it. I bought this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ocr-Straight-Fit … rds=pc4+m6

It has an extra tube incase my factory one every craps out.

I do but I'm not sure I will be able to explain it very well. I'll have to try to get a pic and get it back to you once I do.

That was quicker than I expected. If you look at that picture you can see the pins inserted into the connector, they are ordered from left to right    blue  red   green   black
That's coming from the motor to the factory plug. I just wrapped white electrical tape over the solder joints to protect them from crossing with another wire. If that doesn't work for some reason it doesn't take much time to figure out what order will spin the motor in the right direction.

If I ever find the correct connector I'll switch those pins out for that.

I am using the xyz tags but I don't have the programming experience to know how to sniff the passwords and modify anything. What I can do is take a couple chips that the password has been discovered by someone else who has that ability and rewrite the remaining filament length. I can't do anything for you in that department though.

I see what you mean, sorry for the confusion. That looks like a very useful program the only issue I'd have is I don't have an NFC reader on my computer just on my phone. That's what I've been using with an NFC program to rewrite the tags.

I appreciate that, if I had something to make that work on my computer I would. Let me know how your fix works out.

I removed all that extra stuff that was in the factory feeding system and tucked the extra wire out of the way. haven't. Noticed anything negative happening due to the removal of it.