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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Printing issue not going away...
I have tried 3 different programs now. Repetier Host, soliprint, and now Simplify 3D. Each and every one does the same thing before each print. The extruder stops, goes to the corner, then back to the center and doesn't move. I was able to solve this for a bit by deleting the "wait for bed temp" line in gcode, but now it does it no matter what.
it would be helpful to know what printer....
do you have anything in your start g-code that would cause this ? there used to be a start gcode that would center until the filament heated, then move back and go. It was highly annoying and I think it came from solidoodle's official site.
so, go back into RH and look for any extras in the start gcode.
If you are using RH, I can help you troubleshoot it, otherwise I cant.
Also in RH compare you settings to the official RH solidoodle settings.
Default Repetier Host Configuration
Windows
Connection
Port whichever port your printer is hooked up to
Baud Rate 115,200
Stop Bits 1
Parity None
Transfer Protocol Autodetect, or Force ASCII Protocol
Receive Cache Size 63
Use Ping-Pong Communication Unchecked
Firmware send OK after error CheckedPrinter
Travel Feed Rate 4800
Z-Axis Feed Rate 200
Default Extruder Temperature 195
Default Heated Bed Temperature 95
Number of Extruder 1
Check Extruder & Bed Temperature Checked
Remove M105 Requests from Log Checked
Check every 3 seconds
Park Position for the Solidoodle 6×6 X = 150, Y = 150, Z = 15
Park Position for the Solidoodle 8×8 X = 200, Y = 200, Z = 15
Go to Park Position after Job/Kill Checked
Disable Extruder after Job/Kill Checked
Disable Heated Bed after Job/Kill Unchecked
Disable Motors after Job/Kill Checked
Add to comp. printing time 8Dimension for the Solidoodle 2 (Solidoodle 3)
Printer Type L_CARTESIAN_PRINTER
Home X Max
Home Y Max
Home Z Min
X Min 0
X Max 159 (205)
Bed Left 0
Y Min 0
Y Max 150 (200)
Bed Front 0
Print Area Width 159 (205)
Print Area Depth 150 (200)
Print Area Height 150 (200)Advanced
Filter Path and Parameter leave blank
Run filter after every slice UncheckedMac
ConnectionPort whichever port your printer is hooked up to
Baud Rate 115,200
Stop Bits 1
Parity None
Transfer Protocol Autodetect, or Force ASCII Protocol
Receive Cache Size 63
Use Ping-Pong Communication Unchecked
Firmware send OK after error CheckedBehaviour
Travel Feed Rate 4800
Z Axis Feed Rate 200
Default Extruder Temperature 195
Default Heated Bed Temperature 90
Number of Extruder 1
Check extruder & heated bed Checked
Check extruder & heated bed every 3 seconds
Don’t log temperature requests (M105) Checked
Dump area position for the Solidoodle 6×6 X = 150, Y = 150, Z = 15
Dump area position for the Solidoodle 8×8 X = 200, Y = 200, Z = 15
Go to dispose after job/job kill Checked
Disable extruder after job/job kill Checked
Disable heated bed after job/job kill Unchecked
Disable motors after job/job kill Checked
Add to comp. printing time 8Dimension for the Solidoodle 2 (Solidoodle 3)
Home X x max
Home Y y max
Home Z z min
X Min 0
X Max 159 (205)
Y Min 0
Y Max 150 (200)
Printer Type Classic Printer
Print Area Width 159 (205)
Bed Front 0
Print Area Depth 150 (200)
Bed Left 0
Print Area Height 150 (200)Advanced
Filter Path and Parameter leave blank
Run filter after every slice Unchecked
Sorry guys, the printer is solidoodle 4. I tried different programs and i even tried different versions of slic3r and yet the error persits. I even got a new flashed motherboard (thanks to Bob Ward) and I asumed that would fix it but I was wrong haha.
ugh...welp, looks like i have another problem. While heating the extruder past 140, it instantly freezes with this message: 
I dont understand what could have happened. Just earlier, I had it up as high as 180 without any issues.
ok, I am thinking you may have a broken wire/bad connector issue - when it moves it is pulling that wire so it loses connection and that is why it is stopping
check all the connectors for the hotend & its thermistor. if those look like they are ok, it may be a break in the wire itself.
I'd say you have a max temp set too low in your host software. Earlier when you heated to 180 were you using RH? And then when you got the error of exactly 150 degrees were you using Simplify 3D?
My advice would be to use Slic3r and RH. Take the time to learn everything you can about setting up proper profiles. Remember there's a start code section in your slice profile and a start code section in RH as well. Use one or the other but not both. Ensure that all profile temps match, yes they can be in the start code so set them correctly or remove those lines and use the manual control.
Here's what I know for sure.
It's not the board or the firmware.
It's not the hot end, although your splices or the stock connectors leave little to be desired. They shouldn't be causing this issue. But may be worth double checking.
I am 95% certain you have a software setting issue.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the help guys, it was a loose wire. I managed to unclog it but its clogged again so i gotta first unclog it. The stupid wire i used isnt long enough to go all the way through so i gotta look for a guitar string or something.
Thanks for the help guys, it was a loose wire. I managed to unclog it but its clogged again so i gotta first unclog it. The stupid wire i used isnt long enough to go all the way through so i gotta look for a guitar string or something.
yes that guitar string or piano wire is a great idea. I had a similar clog issue lately and its like a very tiny sliver of something got in filament during manufacture and nozzle needs heated while feeding a thin wire backwards and out where filament feeds in to drag the sliver out with melted filament. this way it dont have to be torn apart each time and realigned for printing. need a wire just under size of nozzle also pliers to hold wire after passing through hot filament. I was able to free a sliver by cutting a few 6" long pieces of filament and hand feeding a bit then slowly remove it dragging clumps out. I was able to use both ends of each piece while keeping hotend heated in RH manual controls thus maintaining safe temps. but the wire would work better for this. I have a .35mm orifice so a sliver of anything that can partial clog it is very hard to see without 10x-60x magnification. and it can be any material that wont melt at the temps filament does.
its amazing clogs dont occur more than they do with some cheap filaments. so we do need a gauge wire chaser for making the issue faster to cure. all I now have is a 1 inch long #80 orifice drill bit which barely goes in nozzle but too short.
well i managed to unclog it again but once again, i discovered ANOTHER problem. My printer will no longer connect to any program. It connects to the PC but every time i try to select COM 3, the program just freezes and crashes. I have tried different USB ports, I uninstalled the driver and reinstalled it, I unhooked all the wires from the board and plugged them back in, but none of these solved my problem. Please help me bro's <3
I did not see that you also tried a different USB cable.
I did not see that you also tried a different USB cable.
Yes, i also treid a different cable and i also uninstalled the software and reinstalled it, and i also tried booting into safe mode to see if that would work. Nothing fixed it 
Are you sure the printer is on com three? Have you tried going into the port advanced properties and giving it a different number then pointing your client to the new number? Are you using a hub or a dedicated port on the PC? Make sure it is not a 3.0 port.
When I had that board for flashing the only thing that seemed odd was that it would only connect with 12v supplied to the board. That is not expected behavior for a PrintrBoard but I chalked it up as a Solidoodle fluke. It flashed fine and functioned fine for an hour test run. I am out of suggestions other than to participate in the exchange program that Printit Industies offers.
Yes it is definitely com 3. I tried changing the com to 4 and 5 and the same thing happened.
I have mine set to COM4 and I am attaching the settings I have for my SD4. I am using Windows 10 but the settings should be same regardless of the Windows version.
And since the forum software decided to sort the files in alphabetical order you should look at them in this order:
Device Manager.png
Com4 Properties.png
COM4 Advanced Properties
I was also looking at the COM log that you posted. You have the extruder temp set to 240 degrees, are you running an all metal hot end? That is pretty hot if you have the original PEEK SD hot end. I have never run mine above 215 for ABS (210 is my sweet spot.) Here is a Solidoodle link http://support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/ … e-Settings that you can use as a reference. I think their temperature settings are low because of the way they placed the thermistor and it is not reading the real hot end temperature.
Firstly, I'd like to thank each and every one of you for continuing to help me through my many issues, so thank you all.
Secondly, I managed to fix my issue by resorting to re-flashing the board, and it surprisingly worked.
However, although i am able to connect to the printer and control it, it wont heat up the bed or extruder anymore. I believe i made a mistake when flashing even though i followed the directions exactly. I even reflashed 2 more times and it still wont heat up.
Maybe one of you can send me your edited Marlin.pde.hex file and i can just use that?
I don't remember where the thread is, but there was an issue with downloading the drivers and having them recognized as an installed device. There was something about accepting that it was an unsigned driver before it would it work. Wish I had a link.
Try this. If the answer is not in the original thread, some of the included links might help
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/13403/no … are-issue/
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