max temp/ firmware issues on workbench (Page 1 of 2)

Highly unlikely that this is a firmware related issue.  My first guess would be a poor connection within the heat cartridge connector at the board.  The wires are simply pushed into little v slots inside that connector.  This arrangement promotes low amperage capacity and therefore that power doesn't get to the heater itself.  This also means that heat can be created right inside that connector and you may even see some burning of the connector itself.

On the manual control screen of RH, is the temp actually getting lowered on the temp slider as the print starts?

Then the issue is that the power isn't making it to the hot end.  Could be a bad wire or even a poor connection of the PSU to the board at the barrel connector.  It's simple, if you were to put 12v on the wires to the heater wires and it gets to temp.  Then somewhere there has to be something Limiting the amount of current.  I have seen wires break inside the insulation and cause issues similar.  It could even be a PSU issue and to test this, try without running the bed heater just to see if the hot end will maintain temp.

So as soon as things start to move your seeing the temp drop but the output graph shows 100% output?  Sounds like a bad wire or bad connection to me.

All those wires move around a lot and SD isn't exactly known for using the best quality wires and on the Workbench they have at least one solder joint to extend the length.  Have you changed anything else in regards to software updates lately?

the other hot end broke off... it just snapped in half because a bit of filament got jammed in it and pushed the bottom half of it off. I have not made any other software changes so i am looking for connection issues now

That thermistor is just reading the ambient temperature of the room. It had issues when I disconnected it so i left it connected to the board and just routed it so that it is out of the way

I just tried that with no luck. when it cools I will take off the insulating tape off and check if it is a connection to the hot end. If it isnt that then it has to be a connection before it leaves the board.

It was a connection problem. I switched out the hot end from the broken extruder with the working one and it printed just fine. Thank you for all the help. No chance you know where to buy replacement hot ends so that I can get both up and running again?

http://www.printitindustries.com/I have an E3d on my workbench and wouldn't use anything but.  I have designed a single extruder carriage for the workbench/v6 combo if you'd like the files just let me know.
You can buy the E3d here http://www.printitindustries.com/
Switching to this will require a firmware upgrade which I can also help you with.

Or an issue before it enters the board.

I would start right at the barrel connection as it enters the board.  The case of the printer interferes with it some and may be creating a weak connection.  Think of it as a garden hose and the volume is equal to current.  If you pinch the hose you don't get the volume (current) needed.  Any connection that reduces the effective size of the wire can do the same thing.  That barrel connector can have very limited points of contact.  You could also be dealing with a failing PSU and if that's the case you can grab a new one.   http://www.printitindustries.com/collec … wer-supply