solidoodle 2 extruder upgrade

I *just* finished the e3d mod for my SD2 and it's amazing!  I haven't yet edited the video tutorial I recorded, but I can summarise here.  I preserved the original hot-end and connectors, for the most part.

Edit: I just realised I answered the wrong question.   

First, I'm sure you know about http://www.soliwiki.com/E3D_extruder, and I assume you are going to get an E3D or similar kit.  You'll be following this to the letter if you get the latest: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

Things to print before install:
Extended Z-stop http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:135575
mk5 extruder assembly http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111213
but with special mk5 for e3d part http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:393928  (there is also this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:946800, and a bowden version http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1275636 )
(optional) for safety, print this before wiring your PSU http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:40377

Print all strucrual parts at high infill in ABS (especially the hot-end holder, but also z-top, since that will be inside warm printer).

Hardware:
a better 12v PSU than stock http://www.soliwiki.com/Upgrade_The_Power_Supply 360w switching PSU is best

Wires and connectors:
-Connector from fan to any constant 12v output - I just connected this straight to the 12v PSU for the moment.
-Connector from the thermistor to the board - I just used a jst plug from a lithium battery pack http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351067025481
-Connector from the e3d hot end to the board - I temporarily used one of those jst plugs above, but they are not very thick, so I have now cannibalised the original SD2 bed heater connector (because I now have a DC-DC SSR for bed heater and use one of the JST connectors from board to SSR).  In any case, the JST plug wires didn't get warm.
-You need shrink tubing to make nice connections.
-A roll of kapton tape, since you'll be taking things apart at the extruder and then taping them snugly back together.
-Small tie wraps to organise wires.

Tools:
-an adjustable spanner
-another adjustable spanner or similar to tighten hot end nozzle while holding the heating block
-long hex drivers for those m3 bolts.  consider drilling a hole in the top of the SD2 to access the z-stop adjust, and that it will be further down after you extend the z-stop (or you will go crazy)
-simple soldering iron / station
-something to efficiently fish wires through the wire tube.
-(optional) a drill and bits to put holes in the SD2 frame.  I make holes with total abandon

Abilities:
- flashing firmware:  you need to change the thermistor value in firmware.  If it's an absolute MUST, you can try and rig up the stock thermistor, but mind you'll need to change the insulation for the heat-resistant stuff that comes with the e3d.

Here is my wiring as of last night:

Sigh, I never realized how annoying it was to try to buy metric stuff in the US.  I'm trying to find a nice socket cap head metric screw assortment somewhere. The only thing i found close to what i need ships from Asia.

I looked at Mcmaster Carr and it seems i can only buy specific screws in lots of 100.

Does anyone have any suggestions where i can get a good metric bolt "starter kit"? 

Driggers:
I look forward to your videos.  I would definitely like to see how everything comes together.  Also that picture explains your slightly odd comment I've been meaning to ask you about in the other thread about attaching an old piece of pallet as a spool holder.  A great and simple mod. Unfortunately, i run my printer in a cool room, so i have to keep it enclosed or my ABS prints curl up into themselves.

Also, dang that SSR is huge.  I expected something that fit on a perf board.  I guess at 25A it couldn't be too small.  I assume this is heating your bed?   Are you still running your hot end from the motherboard?

Try MrMetric.com
You pay more per screw, but can buy individually

http://www.boltdepot.com is good too.

I got tired of studying and just took the leap.   Ill do e3d later.

I replaced my jigsaw with the lawsy mk5.  Since i couldn't find a good concise  list of steps (in text at least...) on removing the old extruder assembly I'll try to give my blow by blow it case it helps someone in the future. I immediately printed another lawsy .. and ill probably print another one tonight.

0a.  i stared at the thing for a week (see above
0b.  i determined that there was little chance of saving the jigsaw assembly since the minimum number of required screws that needed to be removed pretty much makes it fall apart

1. I disconnected the hotend wires.  Note:  the quick disconnects have a lock of sorts on the red/blue end.  the actual piece that comes out is the tiny white side. pull on that little lever sticking out of the colored side while pulling on the white piece and it will come out really easy.

2.  I took off the 4 longer screws that attach the assembly to the stepper motor.  Note: the motor just sits on a perch behind the assembly so make sure you catch it and set it aside gently.

3.  i removed the 2 nuts visible from the front that attaches the assembly to the perch.  I noticed after the fact that the screws go all the way through the perch and can be steadied  with a Phillips head screwdriver (the blasphemy !! ) if the nuts just spin.

At this point you should have the entire assembly in your hands.  Now to remove the hot end.

4.  Remove the 2 nuts that hold the hot end onto the assembly (I now know why it took so long to ship the blasted solidoodles.  They must have had a crew of 20 who's sole job is going in with tweezers and pliers to attach these nuts to the captured screws.   incredibly frustrating. look for "solidoodle replacing hotends" for tips..)

5.  Now you have to deal with the piece of wood  around the hotend.  I suppose you could cut it with tinsnips or something, but like I said, I wanted a way back worst case scenario.  I decided to unscrew the peek insulator from the nozzle.  search for "unclogging solidoodle nozzle" for tips. I will add one thing.  slide the black insulation off and locate the thermocouple. it looks like a tiny glass bead attached to the nozzle with kapton.  if you have to use a wrench, steer clear of this. it is very fragile.  In hindsight, This is probably the most dangerous part of the operation. 

Now you have everything in pieces.   Pick up with the instructions for installing Lawsy's mk5 extruder on the thingiverse page.  I ended up reusing most of the screws from the old jigsaw.

I did have to improvise:
1x m3x10mm  - for the locking arm - used an old ugly pan screw that was way too big.  i cracked the top hole but got a good firm lock on the arm.  probably not the best approach

1x m3 x "shorter".  for the filament guide, you need much shorter screws than stock.  the left one i ended up chopping a bit off of one of the original hotend to wood screws with a dremel tool. for the right end i used one of the bolts from the tension arm assembly.

I was able to use the extra screws to put the jigsaw pieces back together ..just incase.

protip:  when cutting bolts, you will invariably screw up the threads (lol ..puns...:) ).  Put one or more nuts on the bolt before cutting it.  Once cut, removing the nuts you will mostly straighten out the threads.  Also it will be a lot easier to cross thread so be really careful. Also the nuts gives you a good place to grab it with a vice while your cutting it.

ok .. wow.  There are a lot of possibly garbage clones (depends on percentage of shill reviews) of the e3d v6 out there.  Is the only sure place to buy a real one in the UK? (e3d-online.com)

yeah ..that seems to be the best option.

i found the kit here:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/pri … -universal

I can get the fully assembled version from e3d shipped to US for about the same price (barring unexpected international fees.)

Also, since this looks roughly drug/bomb related, has anyone run into any problems importing this into US?

you definitely will need to run PID tuning again for the new thermistor.  I print e3d's "everyday" PLA around 210 for first layer and 200 for higher layers, with a heated bed around 70/60 (first, other)...  that's all a bit too hot, if anything.

I'm still tweaking slic3r settings. Undoing, recalculating, and replacing the solidoodle hacks  is getting complicated. .. that's ok though i need to learn what these numbers mean if I'm going to make the best out of these mods.

My first test cube was about .025mm to large.  I put the extrude width overrides back to zero to see what I have baseline.  now its about .25mm to small ..sigh.  Also, i forgot to reduce the print speed.

Also, why I'm replying,  I'm  now seeing the diagonal "moire" effect on the walls.  Some fixes say adjust the driver pots, but i wanted to make sure it wasn't something obvious I've screwed up in slic3r before i go messing with electricity.

I just bought such an E3D Hotend on ebay, and perhaps I´m going to put it into my SD2
Short question: What exactly are the benefits of it? Or are there any?
I found at least 10 threads of putting it into the machine...

So far, the biggest benefit is a lot less oozing.  make sure you reduce your retract settings to the recommended <1mm  in your settings though.  Retracting more than that with mine causes it to extrude bubbles sometimes. Also ive read it will pull melted filament into the cold part of tube possilby causing it to get stuck requiring a quite a bit of cleanup (including dissasmbly).

I am currently still tweaking, but I've been a little dissapointed.  I've not seen amazingly better stuff yet.  the reduction in ooze blobbing is worth the money though in my opinion.