Panelolu Complete Guide (Page 3 of 3)

Lawsy, could there be an issue with the SD card in the current firmware?  That's 3 reports, have you seen any trouble?   I could check my SDSL for shorts, but it worked on its own before I plugged in the fan.  Then again, I haven't used it since the last update or two.

That might be it.  It requires turning on Pin 4, if it wasn't already.

Thanks for the guide lawzzy,
took 3 hours all up including an hour frigging around with the bootloader, forgot to add the avrdude.ini to the tools folder.. noob arduino mistake...

few notes from me on the kit hardware..

Only thing I needed extra apart from the kit was the 14 pin header for the SD2. This is not included in the kit obviously.

The spacers on the back of the SD2 pcb are not fixed, so be prepared for them to fall out when removing the screws holding the electronics in place. My holes where open on the SD2, no desoldering needed.

Instructions are a bit vague if you do not know all the terminology,
line numbers for the defines in the marlin Configuration.h are different than the text mentioning it on github.
All I did was uncomment line 294 "#define ULTIPANEL  //the ultipanel as on thingiverse"

The github page has removed the # from the #define and prints lin large bold text on my computer instead.
Need to open the marlin.pde and find the Configuration.h file in there.

Chip selected in board/tools was the Sanguine W/ATmega1284p 16MHz 

Block of white on the SD card pcb is the pin 1 marker for the connector. I was not sure whch way it went in for a while.

I used pin 1 away from the reset switch on the little slave pcb holding the rotary encoder. Matches the pins numbering marked on the diagram then.

rotary encoder can go in either way .. buit must be the 2 pins on one side closest to edge of the pcb.

need to splay out the mounting legs so its fits over the edge of the pcb and with some long nose plier work can be clamped to the pcb edges.

components mount on the non track side of the pcb obviosuly.

the 2 trimpots are the same value so contrast and brighness pots are interchangeable.

I left the cable at 24 pins wide to make it easier to line up in the clamps, then peel back wires 23 and 24 and snip off close to the connector. easier to line up that way.
make sure wires 1 and 2 are insulated from each other and can't touch the chassis, they are capable of high current and are not used currently.

I have left the cable at full kit length, about 1 metre .. its too long, I have seen some corruption on the LCD, (though not since I flashed it with the SD marlin) this is likely a cable length capacitance problem, could easily remove a foot and the cable would be fine length wise.

All I have to do now is find something I can plug the SD card into to reformat it .. its full of a HTC android hack.

Been a crazy week for me but this weekend and next week I plan to transfer this guide to soliwiki. Feel free to edit in any additional pointers once I do.

just a note for those calibrating the extruder and using a panelolu like me .. to change the steps per mm for the extruder etc, do not bother with changing the steps/mm in the config.h as per ians blog .. it makes no difference , I calibrated extruder and had to change the 138 to 118.96 .. edited config.h, save and upgrade did nothing, compile and upgrade did nothing, edit extruder steps on the panelolu and save .. job done

is that persistent ? I did not try it as I thought it was needed each boot. doh!

re SD printing, I have just tried my second SD print (different file) and both have stopped mid print .. any ideas ?

Any of these calibration commands can be made persistent by saving them to the EEPROM. Repetier-Host can do this as can the Panelolu.

Stoney, you wouldn't have seen the changes because it reads from the EEPROM first before the firmware for these. There is a g-code command to clear the stored settings and go from the firmware.

I had a blue screen when my screws were too tight,
My front case panel is warped.  I didn't want to reprint it and everything fit together, but when I cranked down the screws the panel went blank.  I had to cut down the ribbon clamp so that it wouldn't press against the LCD board but I still can't tighten it too much without losing the LCD.

If the panel is not working, use a multimeter to check your wiring against the schematic.  I did a terrible job soldering the board and found a short.  Also, I used a different ATMega chip on another Sanguinololu and the panelolu would not scroll, even though I used the same Solidoodle Firmware. (slightly modified for my CNC.)

Your post has made me add my updated perl script I had previously written to achieve what you speak of.

http://www.soliforum.com/post/9722/#p9722

Enjoy.

Thanks, Lawsy.  Works great.