Panelolu Complete Guide (Page 2 of 3)

When I put mine together, I stuffed up in one of the first steps, where I thought I was working with a 22 pin cable and not a 24 pin cable. Therefore all of the wiring was 2 pins out so I had to cut a section off and start again.

Without this mistake the ribbon cable would be about 10 inches longer, which would easily get the display at the front of the machine.

I've given this a try, and ran into a few issues.

The back cover is upside down. Pardon my noobness, so I imported it in Sketchup, flipped it and exported as STL, then slic3d it (which made a completely different item out of it, which I noticed after printing...). Then I cloud netfabbed the modified flipped backside and then slic3r was able to make something decent out of it.

It's not clear to me what to do with the extra wires coming out of the SDHC card reader (maybe I glanced over that). Can I cut these off?

The shaft of the rotary encoder sticks out 8.5mm, the recession in the knob is 3.5mm, and it's a very loose fit. Did you grind down the rotary encoder or did I get a different one?

Can't figure out how to do it in Slic3r/Repetier, Google is also letting me down. There's a rotate in Repetiers that randomly throws my objects around and there is a rotate in slic3r that can only rotate on a horizontal plane. Anyway that's my problem and has nothing to do with your beautiful howto (other than that I'm the first to follow it and leave feedback regarding it).

Yep, got your knob. Clearance needed for the button click is 0.5mm, I have a 5mm gap. Combined with the loose fit, I'm guessing I have a different rotary encoder? My board is also different (I've got a red one). Maybe it's because I ordered the DIY kit and not the preassembled one.

Or maybe you uploaded a button that doesn't fit with the case? The photos here and on your Thingiverse page are also from a different case, so the design was changed after you build it.

I don' t know.

I guess I'll just grind down the rotary encoder and use ABS glue to make the knob fit.

Thanks!

Finally decided to open up my kit and have a crack at this.
Glad I did, not as bad as I first thought.

1 question,
Should the 6/2 pin black connectors and headers be a snug slide fit or fairly loose?
Ive noticed mine go together easy enough but not much is holding them there, its quite a sloppy fit.
Is that ok or is there a problem?

Edit: How long should I make my ribbon cable? Ill be using the LCD on the side and the top.

Thanks guys.

I should reiterate how impressed I am with this mod. I wonder how hard it would be to make the screen do more elaborate things - perhaps a joy stick to manually move the print head as in pronterface.

Just a thought.

My kit arrived yesterday, I've wired it all up, now all I need is my printer. I'm hoping auspost has it for me tomorrow.

Just one thing for the tutorial, which is no biggie at all, there is nowhere that says to terminate the end of cable B, unless I've missed it.

I must say though, there has to be a better way than this to wire this up. I was thinking a pcb that had breakout headers on it might be feasible. When I get to print the case ill have a look.

Just doubled checked the guide and directions for both ends of B are given. As for the knob, I can imagine that they have changed the kit a little. My advice is to try and print the original knob from the case my STL is derived from.

The kobs on these are actually pretty cool. We didn't notice this detail till you brought it up.

Hi all,

thanks for the great tutorial lawsy. I do have a problem with my installation.

For flashing the new chip 1280p I had to choose Sanigolu 1280p 16Hz ,was this right? The 8Hz option didnt work for me.

After flashing everything works fine except the Move axes option.

I did upload a video to youtube. Hopefully there is a solution for my problem with the Panelolu.

http://youtu.be/i5SyNaTcbzg

I did fid another Knob that should work for the new kits. The Knob from lawsy is not working for me. Maybe this one will fit:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28332

Hallo

I received my Solidoodle 2 the other day and it survived all the way to Denmark.  :-)

The Solidoodle 2 works fine, but I have tried to get the Panelolu kit to work that I bought on e-bay.

I followed this great tutorial, but when I connect the Panelolu kit line 1 and 3 is blinking every 10 second and the Solidoodle also makes a click sound when the display is blinking. No menu, no text. :-(

I tried connecting the USB cable and connecting the Solidoodle in Pronterface. When the display blinks and it makes the click sound it puts out this message:

start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin 1.0.0
echo: Last Updated: 2012-09-17 | Author: Lawsy
echo: Free Memory: 12528  PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:Stored settings retreived:
echo:Steps per unit:
echo:  M92 X88.00 Y88.00 Z2268.00 E138.00
echo:Maximum feedrates (mm/s):
echo:  M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z5.00 E45.00
echo:Maximum Acceleration (mm/s2):
echo:  M201 X9000 Y9000 Z100 E10000
echo:Acceleration: S=acceleration, T=retract acceleration
echo:  M204 S3000.00 T3000.00
echo:Advanced variables: S=Min feedrate (mm/s), T=Min travel feedrate (mm/s), B=minimum segment time (ms), X=maximum xY jerk (mm/s),  Z=maximum Z jerk (mm/s)
echo:  M205 S0.00 T0.00 B20000 X20.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:Home offset (mm):
echo:  M206 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
echo:PID settings:
echo:   M301 P22.20 I1.08 D114.00

When I disconnect the Panelolu kit and turn on the Solidoodle it is as normal, but with the "SD init fail" error.

I spend 9 hours yesterday assembling the kit and trying to get it working. I must have flashed the Atmega1284 chip almost 50 times. I went through all the connections on the Panelolu kit with a multimeter and there was no bad connections.

In the Firmware all you have to do is to remove the // from //#define ULTIPANEL, right?

Now I hit rock bottom. I really need some help. Could it be a bad kit?

Thanks
JB

I set up a Gcode controlled fan on my sanguinololu which used the 12v and GND pins (which the Panelolu doesn't use) and one of the signal pins.  I found that if the SDSL was also plugged in, the board would just restart over and over.  If I unplugged the SDSL it was fine.  I don't know if there might be the same kind of conflict, but you could try disconnecting the card reader and see if there is any difference.

Hallo

A big thank you from me to lawsy and Ian.

Thank you lawsy for confirming line 302 in configuration.h.

Thank you Ian for pointing me in the direction of the SD-card reader. After removing the SD-card reader it worked and after taking a closer look at the SD-card reader I noticed that there was a short circuit with a piece of solder on some of the legs/pins. I removed the solder and now it is working. :-)

Thanks
JB