Topic: Thin Bendable Hinge
I have an idea for a project that would require bending a thin hinge greater than 90 degrees between sides to form a shape. Is ABS too brittle? All I have is ABS filament. If so, what would work?
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filament → Thin Bendable Hinge
I have an idea for a project that would require bending a thin hinge greater than 90 degrees between sides to form a shape. Is ABS too brittle? All I have is ABS filament. If so, what would work?
Try bridge nylon. They claim that you can use it as a living hinge for over 2000 bends. I'm sure ABS would be too brittle
http://www.taulman3d.com/bridge-nylon.html
Thanks Josh!
No problem. I have printed with the stuff, it's pretty good. I haven't done much testing on hinges but it's flexible and abrasion resistant.
Ended up ordering this:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d- … ent-1.75mm
Taulmans's PCTPE is fantastic for that application.
Ended up ordering this:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d- … ent-1.75mm
Bear in mind that with this material your whole printed piece will be "rubbery", not just the thin hinge section...
I've never printed with Ninjaflex, but I have printed with TPU which is a variation of what Ninjaflex is made of. It's a lot more like rubber than hard plastic, so just keep that in mind. If you have a dual extruder, you can print with both ABS and Ninjaflex, and just make your hinge out of ninjaflex.
dave.lantz wrote:Ended up ordering this:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/3d- … ent-1.75mmBear in mind that with this material your whole printed piece will be "rubbery", not just the thin hinge section...
Have I mentioned Taulman's PCTPE is great for this application. It's flexible nylon that in thin layers is very flexible but gets rigid above 4 layers.
I have an idea for a project that would require bending a thin hinge greater than 90 degrees between sides to form a shape. Is ABS too brittle? All I have is ABS filament. If so, what would work?
Does it have to bend repeatedly or just once for assembly. If the latter, a hot air gun will work great with ABS. If the former, why not a pin hinge?
Thanks everyone! Ward, I'm going to try your stuff. NinjaFlex was a disaster!
I couldn't get it to extrude properly. Either it wouldn't come out at all or would continue to run out after the feeder stopped. Almost like it had to build up pressure!
Spent about 3 hours trying to get it to work and got too frustrated. Their ad touted the fact that it prints like ABS with approximately the same heat and feed parameters. HAAA! That was a laugh.
Good luck! Let us know how it works out.
So this is the story of my luck with 3D printers.
After I realized I wasn't going to be able to finish my flexible hinge project, I decided to print my daughter a Nittany Lion out of ABS before she went back to Penn State. I removed the flexible filament and loaded a new spool of ABS white filament. Thoroughly purged the hot end until all white ABS was coming out. Returned all the settings to what I was using for ABS. Loaded the job and sliced it. Looked good. Started the job and it was running fine. Was going to be a 9 hour 45 minute run. Checked it after about 2 hours and it was running fine. 8 hours to go. It was already well adhered to the table so I turned the table heat off knowing that the hot end would shut off automatically when the job was done. I didn't want the table heat for and hour or more until I woke up.
Came down this morning to a total mess. The new spool prematurely uncoiled and wrapped around the spool holder, jammed and stopped feeding. I think the hot end burned out because part of the heat cloth wrapped around it fell off. I cannot get the hot end to heat up now. God only knows what other untold damage.
Any suggestions where to start? Minimum new hot end and I need suggestion on how to stop the filament from uncoiling and wrapping around the spool holder. Instructions anywhere on how replace the hot end?
What kind of printer do you have?
Also, the printer knows to shut off the heated bed when it's done. The heat is necessary to keep the part stuck all the way through - when the build plate cools down, the part turns loose.
What kind of printer do you have?
Also, the printer knows to shut off the heated bed when it's done. The heat is necessary to keep the part stuck all the way through - when the build plate cools down, the part turns loose.
Solidoodle 4.
On my printer the hot end shuts off but the table stays on. I have not changed the settings since receiving it from the factory. The part was well stuck, I had to pry it off the table this morning and the BuildTak has to be replaced.
Solidoodle 4.
On my printer the hot end shuts off but the table stays on. I have not changed the settings since receiving it from the factory. The part was well stuck, I had to pry it off the table this morning and the BuildTak has to be replaced.
Oh, i see. Someone else might have to help you with that since I'm not that familiar with SD. The printer should turn the bed off when the print finishes
I've had the spool do that to me before but it didn't cause any problems like that. You could try adding something to the spool holder to give it more friction, like electrical tape or something rubbery. But you don't want it to be too tight or it will put strain on your extruder.
A new hotend can be purchased here: http://www.solidoodle.com/Parts-sd4-hot-end
Be sure to take a look at their notes at the bottom.
Instructions on hotend replacement: http://wiki.solidoodle.com/hot-end-replacement
Thanks Josh!
Thanks Josh!
Glad to help!
Dave,
In RH, under Config / Printer Settings; the Printer Tab is where you can instruct the Bed Heater to shut off after print completion:
Take this opportunity to upgrade to an all metal hot end such as the E3d. You can buy them on filastruder.com.
Take this opportunity to upgrade to an all metal hot end such as the E3d. You can buy them on filastruder.com.
^Yep...probably the best upgrade you can do!...throw in a Hobbed Goblin while you're at it...
Thanks Ward and Iron Man. Apparently I have to upgrade because Solidoodle has no hot ends in stock.
So guys what's involved in replacing the hot end with a E3D? I went to the site and it looks like a lot of parts. Are there detailed instructions? Also will I need to reconfigure any settings or change software?
You can check the Soliwiki page for the E3D For a full list of instructions.
All E3D hotends are sold as a DIY kit. The assembly is a breeze, but you will still want to familiarize yourself with the wiki instructions. That was made for the v4/v5. The v6 is even easier and there are many of us who would be more than happy to walk you through should you need any help.
Aside from the mechanical assembly, you will have to update your firmware. This is not optional . You have a different type thermistor and you are now capable of reaching much higher temps. So you will have to tweak this, and then heat the hotend to 290c for a final tightening. Once again, if you would need help with this, many would be happy to help, but there are already many many threads answering virtually any question you may have regarding the E3D.
Take this opportunity to upgrade to an all metal hot end such as the E3d. You can buy them on filastruder.com.
+2
I recently upgraded the hotend on my airwolf to the E3D v6. Best decision I ever made.
Also, you can buy the mount parts directly from Filastruder along with the E3D v6.
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