Power cord on solidoodle 2 (Page 3 of 3)

They are called two pin headers. Or you can get longer and just cut them down.

thanks everyone for the help. my header pins arrived today and they are installed and my firmware is all updated. i wouldnt have been able to do it without this community.

If you're ever unsure about polarity (which is positive / which is negative), I highly recommend using a multimeter to check.
If you need to get one, so be it - they're like $10 and very very useful.

I would suggest looking closely at the markings on the board at yhat connector. I see the marking GND which means ground or negative on the right side where you currently have the red wire which is positive.

To make matters worse, not sure about your new board but the old one was designed to use multiple power connector configurations. If you had installed your new connector on the old board the the square pin middle left would be 12 volts and the round pin on the same axis to the right would be ground. You have to look closely at the holes and the planes/lands compose of the copper traces that they all connect to. They are marked but only work in specific patterns.

I'm starting to get a little lost now. I think you're right about the multiple connection support because one of the markings says atx+4. The front is blocked because of the screw terminal so I cant see the white lines very well but I have taken a picture of the back.
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As far as positive and negative this is what I found on the wiki.

Sanguinololu wiki:
Powering Sanguinololu
Your chosen power solution will determine what kind of power requirements will be in play:

Screw terminal: Connect your power supply with at least 7V and at most 30V to the screw terminal. The negative lead is the one closest to the screw hole.

Based on this info, I have wired my board incorrectly and should flip the red and blue wires going into the screw terminal. Is this correct?

This also brings up another problem.
The board vendor says this:
Note that if you use the Sanguinololu to run a heated bed directly it will draw approx 10A through the heated bed MOSFET. Your power supply needs to be at least 300W, preferably 500W, to supply this. Check the 12V power rating, which need to be 16-20A.

I currently have a 12V 5A power supply that I got on ebay for LED strips/CCTV systems. I realize this is a mistake and I ordered a 12V 10A power supply which will arrive on monday but I'm confused. The power supply sold by solidoodle comes in 120w and 150w versions but the vendor says I need up to 500w?

I switched the wires and my printer lit up and the fan behind the extruder started spinning thank you so much.

Regarding amps/volts/watts could you share more info on that?

The wiki says I should supply between 7v and 30v and doesn't specify the amps.
The vendor of my board says I should supply 12V and 16-20A from a 3-500 watt power supply.

From what I read the bed and nozzle draw something like 11 and 5 amps each? Do those stack to require 16A or do you just go with the highest one which is 11?

The original power brick that came with my solidoodle is marked 12V 10A does this mean it was under powered?
Will the 12V 5A brick damage the printer?

Probably won't damage anything but if you draw more than the power supply can output, the supply will probably just cut off completely. Most supplies have overcurrent protection built in.

Look for something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Regulated-Power … 27ea9d9224

Current is added by every device you have. If you have a bed that takes 11, and an extruder that takes 5, that's 16. But then you also have to power motors, your board, and your fans. As far as amps go, it's way better to have too many than too few.

I crammed it in all the way back to the terminal, so ill trim it like you suggest. I didn't know that was bad, I have a couple of wires like that.

Thank you carl for all the info.