Da Vinci printer Cartridge "factory" reset (Page 1 of 3)

very well done. thank you. how did you know your chip was corrupt to start with?

Disliking searching the original code to un-comment a line or enter a hex value for a particular temperature which is error prone, I decided to change bed and extruder temperatures together with filament lengths from the serial terminal in the Arduino IDE. Doing this means that any extruder and bed temperature may be selected from 0 to 255, however not all of these values are guaranteed to work. The firmware may decide lower and upper bounds for the temperature settings. Upper bound for the extruder temperature is 230 degrees C. I haven't experimented to find upper and lower bounds for the bed temperature or lower bound for the extruder.
Does anyone know these figures for stock firmware and cartridges ?

There are only 2 settings for the filament length 120m and 240m, I didn't include any others as I am not sure how the firmware would respond.

The code works but would not win any prizes in a C writing competition, so apologies to C experts who would find much more elegant ways of coding this.

There is minimal error checking, so if you make a mistake start again. If you type something that isn't one of the options you will get the menu options again.

Improvements to software options:

  r = eeprom read
  f = reset eeprom
  w = read eeprom then reset and increment serial number
  exxx = set extruder temperature from 000 to 230 then write to cartridge and increment serial number
  bxxx = set bed temperature from 000 then write to cartridge and increment serial number
  p1 = set filament length to 120m and increment serial number
  p2 = set filament length to 240m and increment serial number

Option explanation:

r - read eeprom - to check that all's well with the cartridge eeprom settings.

f - is factory reset, extruder at 210 degrees, bed at 90 degrees and filament length at 240m, original serial number.

w - is to increment the serial number maintaining the same extruder and bed temperature settings.

exxx - where xxx are 3 digits representing the temperature for the extruder - any value from 0 to 230 degrees is valid. Above 230           degrees and the firmware will not heat the extruder. You must enter 3 digits so 95 degrees is entered as 095.

bxxx - where xxx are 3 digits representing the temperature for the bed - any value from 000 to 255 degrees may be entered, but anything above 090 has not been tested. You must enter 3 digits so 90 degrees is entered as 090.

p1 - set filament length to 120m and increment serial number.

p2 - set filament length to 240m and increment serial number.

If you have programmed the last code, it is just a matter of placing the cartridge on the resetter and compiling the code and sending it to the Arduino Nano V3.

Issue with that is that yellow you get from brand x today will not be same as the yellow you get from from the same brand tomorrow. The properties which affect print temp and speeds change enough from batch to batch that you have to tweak per roll. I have a test cube I print for every roll so I can see what settins need to change and how.

Might want to re-read my post. I said a roll of the same color from same brand and vendor a month later will have enough difference that you will need to change settings. Its just the nature of the material. So storing profiles will only give you a ballbark to atleast get a print going on a new roll.

I have been printing over 6 years and have used nearly every brand out and some no longer out. I have seen the same characteristics in every brand. The only time you will get consistency and not have to modify speed and temps is if you are able to get your next roll from the same batch as the last.

This same inconsistency holds true even for the higher end name brands like Hatchbox and even Makerbot.  I tried a spreadsheet to track settings and even made profiles for my slicer which was and is Cura based on color and brand but even then I still had to make changes once I did a print and saw the results.

I mean feel free to do what you are trying. But you are going to find it will be unreliable and only get you in the rough area for a color/vendor. Ideas always sound cool and possible till actually put into practice then you find the hang ups and short comings.

If you are running stock filament on stock firmware you have no control of speed. But most who use third party filament also use Simplify 3d so they have full control of temps and speed.

In stock the speed is dictated by the resolution you choose and you take what you get. Same for temps all though they are stored on the cart and could be edited. You have no access to speeds however without flashing or using S3D.

Well, I successfully made reading from csv file from SD card. As you can see, on the left side is arduino program, on the right side in the background is CSV file and on the right side in the foreground is output from arduino. So Arduino reads the whole file and stores it in his arrays. At the moment I dont have a touch screen at home, I have to order it but its not so expensive, just have to wait long time to get it

I think first thing I will do when touch screen arrives is to make it possible to change the parameters on the display and then burn them in EEPROM from filament cassette so you dont have to connect with PC on arduino and change the source-code to change a temperature

@admins: Am I hijacking the post or should I open a new one?

OP? is that topic owner? I feel like I hijacked but also it could be so called "Cartridge re-setter development topic"

Original Post/Poster and he seems fine with it but I would suggest a new topic.  This would make it easier for future users to find what they are looking for.  Besides you have some interesting stuff there that is definitely worth it's own topic.

hy everyone; sorry for my bad english...
i tested the code to reset the cartridge but if i test the updated code that can change everithing by the new menu, it doesn't seem to work, but if i test the old one with only 3 possibilities, it was ok.

Can anyone help me using the second one, it will be intresting to change evrithing...

thanks

thanks for the reply
with the first code it's all ok, i use 1, 2, 3, and i can read and write eprom. In the second code i try r, f, w, and nothing appear, in the serial monitor i can see only the menu, bat nothing else.