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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Com Port 3
thx very much for fast and accurate response, can you please forward me a documentation of how to implement this board to my solidoodle workbench, any help will be deeply appreciated.
one more question, when i opened my workbench i noticed that there are 2 boards, one is the printrboard, the other labeled (Motor), in case i will use the rumba, will it take care of both boards or i have to buy other one for (Motor)
thx very much for fast and accurate response, can you please forward me a documentation of how to implement this board to my solidoodle workbench, any help will be deeply appreciated.
one more question, when i opened my workbench i noticed that there are 2 boards, one is the printrboard, the other labeled (Motor), in case i will use the rumba, will it take care of both boards or i have to buy other one for (Motor)
You can toss all of that. The Rumba will do it all and much better as well.
As others have said you are better off just replacing the board. There is nothing unique about any of these printers once you get passed custom firmware and their custom boards. Hardware and motors are all the same so any controller as has been mentioned will run it. I have a Da Vinci which i am about to switch over to a RAMPS board with DRV8835 stepper Modules.
If nothing else is would be a good chance to get a better understanding of the inner workings of a 3D printer and to understand why they are considered a hobby. Like any hobby you always want to upgrade it, make it better, and make it yours.
Hmm. Any chance the FTDI chip on the solidoodle board was a clone, and navi's been hit by the FTDI driver update?
If the device has had the PID set to 0, it would not show up in device manager or work correctly, symptoms probably pretty much exactly what navi has described...
http://www.zdnet.com/article/ftdi-admit … nt-update/
+1 on the Rumba - you'll have to learn a wee bit more about the printer, and the reconnection means a fair bit of work understanding the printer's wiring, but it's a good board.
Hmm. Any chance the FTDI chip on the solidoodle board was a clone, and navi's been hit by the FTDI driver update?
If the device has had the PID set to 0, it would not show up in device manager or work correctly, symptoms probably pretty much exactly what navi has described...http://www.zdnet.com/article/ftdi-admit … nt-update/
+1 on the Rumba - you'll have to learn a wee bit more about the printer, and the reconnection means a fair bit of work understanding the printer's wiring, but it's a good board.
Solidoodle cut costs with low quality clones? Say it ain't so... 
You are probably right though. I was thinking this as well.
also make sure to use a surge protected power strip or equivalent as with all electronic devices. not for static but for surge protection running in on utility lines or nearby lightening strikes etc. I have saved thousands of dollars in electronics by using them. its the cheapest insurance you can buy. best static protection is ambient air humidity control or service tech type ground bracelet or insulated means (gloves or tools) of handling bare metal connections which may allow discharge from you when touched. I have even seen air-conditioning thermostats with the clear LCD touch screens transfer static in dry air right through the screen damaging thermostat circuitry. also use surge protected power strip for computers with protection on Phone and Ethernet jacks, as anything hardwired into home can carry lightening surges. many parts of electronics cant handle more than 5 volts and is why the old multimeters popular brand name using 9 volt batteries for ohms testing became obsolete years ago
so i'm now convinced that rumba is the best solution, is there any documentation or video i can follow, so i can install the rumba in my solidoodle workbench ??
so if i'm going to make upgrades, it should be big upgrade
can rumba work with e3d v6 smoothly ??
is the board having marlin out of the box, or do i have to upload the firmware,
and if so what tools is need to upload a firmware ??
so if i'm going to make upgrades, it should be big upgrade
can rumba work with e3d v6 smoothly ??
is the board having marlin out of the box, or do i have to upload the firmware,
and if so what tools is need to upload a firmware ??
The Rumba will work with any hot end even the E3d V6 and can be bought here
http://www.reprapdiscount.com/electroni … v8825.html
You will want to read up on the board a bit to understand it better here
http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA#Summary
As far as the firmware you will need to flash the board when you get it. It is very easy to do compared to the SD boards but you will need to download Arduino from here
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software
And this is the version of Marlin you will want to flash onto the board
https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta
Hope this helps
So i discovered that to put the e3d v6, i have first to make a mount. So i will use the solidoodle workbench hotend first to make the mount then after finishing i will replace it with e3d v6 hot end.
My question is do i need to setup specific firmware for solidoodle workbench hotend on rumba ?
If for just one print with a stock hot end run it the way it is. The Rumba needs to be flashed either way from new. I would just set it up in the configuration.h (from my previous post) for the new temps required for the v6 and the correct thermistor. Then go ahead and do that print but watch your temps and adjust not just on the reading but also watch how the flow is. The only real concern will be thermistor accuracy and over heating that stock hot end.
So as i understand i have to flas marlin on the rumba first, then tweak the configuration for the solidoodle hotend, print the mount and then tweak the configuration again for the e3d v6...
am i right??
That would be the correct way but what I was saying is I'd skip doing it twice and just configure for the E3d and use the stock hot end for that print. Just watch the temps until you get the E3d installed but you should be fine for a couple prints.
now i'm stucj with small thing, i have wired most of wires coming from solidoodle to rumba, except for heated bed
there are two wires, one with 4 pins written on it (bed) the other one with 2 pins written on it (b+)
where should i connect these two on my rumba board ??
Picture? And a better description.
now i'm stucj with small thing, i have wired most of wires coming from solidoodle to rumba, except for heated bed
there are two wires, one with 4 pins written on it (bed) the other one with 2 pins written on it (b+)
where should i connect these two on my rumba board ??
The red wires coming from the bed go to the heated bed input, and the black wires go into the heated bed thermistor input. Refer to the diagram I sent you via PM from the wiki.
in the digram the HBP Heater is going to the hb out
so i have to pair every two wires and put two on (+) and two on (-)
is that correct ??
I haven't been following but would say no.
so how to make this i'm totally lost
Put the two red wires coming from your bed on HBOUT. one on HBOUT+ and one on HBOUT- the two back wires go to the thermistor and plug into the heated bed temperature input.
both black and red wires are already plugged to the solidoodle machine, no worries about that part.
also i understood how to put the black wires into rumba, no issues.
my big issue now is with the hbout, it only has 2 plugs and the red wire coming out of solidoodle is 4 red wires.
how could this fit into rumba ??
excuse me for 0 electronics knowledge.
Is there two heat pads on that printer?
this is solidoodle workbench. i really don't know as i wanted to check and the bottom pad is protected with another alimunium plate, which make too hard to check
Looks like it... So you'll need to find out which wires go to which heater. A good bet is that they are paired at the connector, but just to be sure, use a multimeter and measure the resistance across the pairs - Id guess it'll be a reading below two ohms. What resistance do you measure across them? If the current drawn isn't too much for the rumba, you can tie the + pair and - pair together.
It's one heater, 4-pin connector (++--) to split the high current to stay within spec of the headers and connectors.
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