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Topic: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

If you look carefully at the pictures, you will see that there is a raised "shadow" to the left of the square "key" that extends out from the face; this is not repeated on the other side of the key.  This is not on the 3D model.  Not sure whether this is a Slic3r anomaly, or a printer problem.  Also, the surface is not really flat.  The variations do not seem to be as regular as some of the Z axis problems that people have seen, but I wonder how it could be improved

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

Those corners seem like they should be a lot tighter. You should print a single shelled https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/Calibration and see if the corners are the same.

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

You might want to check your backlash on X and Y axis.  It looks like the "shadow" extends all the way to the edge of the part from the protrusion.  This indicates to me that the axis ended up in a different location when going in the opposite direction than turning the original corner.

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

I can feel some slop in the Y, but am not sure how to reduce that.  Any recommendations?

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

I've printed out Ian's Belt Tension Gauge and finally found enough quarters but haven't used it yet.

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

On both of my printers, if you grab the extruder stepper motor and pull the back up gently, you can see that it can ride up and down.  This would could move the end of the nozzle I suppose.  I'm not sure how to evaluate X and Y backlash (that is, what procedures to use to create it, and what measurements to make to evaluate it).  I asked Solidoodle and they said they were actively working on how to assess and improve backlash.  So, I guess it's up to us.

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

The belt tension gauge is probably the most expensive print I've done.  Unless you want to go slumming it with washers but I like my printer accessories to have a little class.  Maybe I'll replace the quarters with some gold Sacagawea dollar coins just because.

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

If I run the printer manually, going back and forth by 10 mm in X sounds "normal", but when I do that in Y, I hear a clanking sound each way.  And yet when I grab the carriage (either with power on or off) I do not feel play pushing it forward and backward.  I'm not sure where the slop is.  If the belts were loose, wouldn't I feel that in my fingers?

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

If you record a short video, does it pick up the clanking sound you are talking about?

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

I'll try to shoot that video on Saturday.  It's been quite a week.

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

I tried to upload the (20 MB) movie here, but the site silently barfed.  Try looking at www.jonbondy.com/clanks.mov

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

When I move the carriage around in both the X and Y directions by tugging on the belts, there are no clanking noises.  Puzzling

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

I just tried printing something on that printer, and within a few minutes, there was a clanking noise and the print was off in the Y direction.  I checked the voltage on the Y  motor driver, and it was 0.515: I bumped it to 0.520, but that difference seems unlikely to be the problem.  I printed out Ian's belt tension gauge, but am not sure what the "right" tension is.

One of the guide rods seems to cause increases in resistance to movement when rotated in the "wrong" orientation.  I reoriented it, but see no way to keep the rod in the optimal orientation.

I tried to put the X and Y movements through their paces, using Repetier Host's Manual Controls, but I feel as if the movement is too slow.  My maximum speed in Slicer is 75 mm/s, or 4500 mm/min.  My setting in the RH configuration for Travel Feed Rate is 4800.  I would like to use the Manual mode to check things out, but in Manual mode all seems well.

I wonder if someone should create an X/Y torture test gCode file...

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

I printed and used Ian's belt tension gauges and one of the belts is tighter on the problem printer than on the non-problem printer.  I'm not sure what to do.  Loosening a belt to take care of a skip seems counter-intuitive

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

The back rod runs through bushings and the idler pulleys on the front are on bolts.  When you tighten the belts it adds friction to both of those places, making the axis harder to move.   The bushings and the front pulleys would be better off replaced with bearings so you can keep the belts tight and maintain smooth motion.  There is a tradeoff between loose enough to move, and tight enough to keep the x carriage stable.  I havent really figured out what the balance is, but I tend to keep the belts looser.   I have some bearings to try out, but there some other projects in line ahead of that one.   

I don't know a correct belt tension.  I usually seem to run it between 3 and 4 notches  visible on the guide between the belts.   Check it with the nozzle forward and with it back.   I've seen the tension differ between those positions.

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

I'm thinking it is a bent guide rod.  After rotating it, and adjusting the bed to level again, the print is proceeding normally.

What would be a good way to obtain replacements for those rods.  I have a band saw to cut them to length, but wonder how easy it would be to get straight rod through the mail

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

Replacement rods from Solidoodle are $6 apiece, which seems reasonable.  But they want $18 to ship 2 of these, which seems absurd.

I went to  McMaster Carr, and all I could find in 8mm was hardened shafts for $12 apiece.  Not sure exactly what Solidoodle might be using.  Maybe one of you will know better than I

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

I don't think they are hardened.... it looks like regular ground drill rod http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPA … PG=INLMK32

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Re: Slic3r and/or printing anomaly

Just had something very strange happen.  I was a few hours into printing an electronics enclosure when the extruder stopped extruding (filament divot) AND the edges of the object being printed lifted up far enough that the extruder kicked the part out the front of the printer (knocking the glass bed loose from the clamps). Never seen that before.  I've printed this same part before, on the other printer.  Strange.

Anyway. 

Given that it would cost $30 to get some new rods from Solidoodle, I came up with another approach.  The Y rods are held in place by a hose clamp on each end.  It turns out that you after you loosen the clamps, you can rotate those clamps on the rod so that one is maximally clockwise and the other is maximally counter clockwise.  Once you have tightened them down in that configuration, the rod can no longer rotate due to printer vibration, and the printer should not encounter the warp in the rod again.

Here's hoping I'm right.