Fun thought of the day: the "14", "17" "23" and "34" in "NEMA 14" etc. refers to the nominal edge length of the square face in 1/10th in: i.e. a nema 17 is about 1.7" (42mm) square. Otherwise they do seem pretty arbitrary numbers haha!
Don't worry about eBay, chinese motors are pretty standard and widely used, and being surprisingly simple machines you're unlikely to have a bad time with them. Make sure you know what you're buying though. A datasheet is always nice, but at the very least note down the torque and current rating of motors you're considering. The current should not exceed the capability of the driver you intend to use (typically 1.5 - 2.0A: check this!). The torque should then be as high as you can get it! >:) Note that in general, higher torque motors tend to be physically longer and draw more current than lower torque motors (which makes sense!).
I could go on, but the choice also depends on what style of mechanism you're intending to run - e.g. ultimaker, core-xy and even delta have no moving motors, so you can put beefy ones in there. For solidoodle cartesian style you'd probably want to save some weight on the moving motor(s). If you're building a giant-format printer, you might have heavy axes and need larger motors. etc. For the extruder, if you're going bowden you might even consider a geared stepper for the extruder to up the res!
That said, if you're sticking to the conventional, then in general NEMA17's are fine, cheap and common.
SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi