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Topic: Motors

ok since i'm going to build a printer or 2 i thought i'd ask about the differences in the motors

I've seen there are the nema 17 and the nema 23 i'm not an enginer so trying to figure out which motors i should choose.

do i want ones with higher torque speed or well what.

http://www.numberfactory.com/nf_motor.html

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Re: Motors

nema 23's are monsters that usually need higher power external drivers than most common 3d printer boards provide, you are more likely to see them in CNC machines than 3d printers. I just got a bunch of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IEV … &psc=1

they seem to be the ones commonly used in a lot of printers and have pretty decent holding torque numbers. I haven't actually hooked one to the motherboard and tried to make it move yet, but they certainly look OK.

3 (edited by Manx 2015-04-17 02:51:09)

Re: Motors

I've noticed the motors on ebay are significantly cheaper. is that because ebays are knockoffs?

also could i switch out and use nema 14's instead of nema 17's?

4 (edited by grob 2015-04-17 06:10:49)

Re: Motors

Fun thought of the day: the "14", "17" "23" and "34" in "NEMA 14" etc. refers to the nominal edge length of the square face in 1/10th in: i.e. a nema 17 is about 1.7" (42mm) square. Otherwise they do seem pretty arbitrary numbers haha!

Don't worry about eBay, chinese motors are pretty standard and widely used, and being surprisingly simple machines you're unlikely to have a bad time with them. Make sure you know what you're buying though. A datasheet is always nice, but at the very least note down the torque and current rating of motors you're considering. The current should not exceed the capability of the driver you intend to use (typically 1.5 - 2.0A: check this!). The torque should then be as high as you can get it! >:) Note that in general, higher torque motors tend to be physically longer and draw more current than lower torque motors (which makes sense!).

I could go on, but the choice also depends on what style of mechanism you're intending to run - e.g. ultimaker, core-xy and even delta have no moving motors, so you can put beefy ones in there. For solidoodle cartesian style you'd probably want to save some weight on the moving motor(s). If you're building a giant-format printer, you might have heavy axes and need larger motors. etc. For the extruder, if you're going bowden you might even consider a geared stepper for the extruder to up the res!

That said, if you're sticking to the conventional, then in general NEMA17's are fine, cheap and common. smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

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Re: Motors

Great synopsis, Grob!

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

6 (edited by Manx 2015-04-17 22:44:27)

Re: Motors

i'm planing on a tantalus printer which is a cartesian printer i'd like to build something smaller i think the build area is only about 6 X 6 X 6 so i'm thinking i could use the nema 14's with a bowden style print head

since i'm going to do 2 printers i'm thinking i will go with the stock j head printer and the other a e3d lite

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Re: Motors

A realy good guide  to stepper motors can be read or downloaded here https://www.geckodrive.com/gecko/images … 0Guide.pdf
from a more practical standpoint:
Like others have said NEMA 17s or 14s are fine  for a 3d printer.
A way to keep amps low and speed high is Use a higher voltage power supply  make sure the board is designed for this. Some of the newer better printers run 24 v instead of 12.
I think in most cases a 3d printer you are only moving a carriage or bed that weighs a few pounds. no no heavy loads like a cnc mill.
Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

8 (edited by grob 2015-04-20 06:12:50)

Re: Motors

Tantillus... According to the reprapwiki page, it's designed for NEMA17s (quite short ones though; <= 40mm). There's your spec. smile

The drivetrain is basically an ultimaker style, but with fishing line and herringbone gears instead of belts / drivebelts respectively. Cool. smile

If you've got the room I'd go for the E3D lite on both machines. You probably won't find an equivalently decent j-head for much less.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

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Re: Motors

grob i ordered a jhead for the first to learn on and then will do an e3d lite for the second one

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Re: Motors

Well my motors arrived  looks good

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Re: Motors

Excellent news, enjoy your construction!

Save up for a full-blown E3D v6 for machine #2 in that case hehe.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

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Re: Motors

I will as soon as i cna actually sigh get a functioning printer again