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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → Constant jamming
I hope the extruder problems get sorted out for everyone. I saw a design flaw that was causing my filament to buckle and I didn't want to deal with it. Sold the press on eBay and got a robo3d unit. Been printing out perfect prints for 4 days now abs or pla. Seriously no excuse for all the design problems in Basicly a 5th gen solidoodle printer.
Is the robo3d perfect, no the hardware is fantastic, software like soliprint sucks. But Slic3r and repetier work great.
I tried those settings.........looked great until the filament buckled again.....
Hey, make sure your hot end is aligned properly with the entrance for the filament. Remove the thumbscrew that holds faceplate in place, and it all drops down. I had put mine back slightly wrong, and had filament do what yours is doing. Hope you have better success.
I hope the extruder problems get sorted out for everyone. I saw a design flaw that was causing my filament to buckle and I didn't want to deal with it. Sold the press on eBay and got a robo3d unit. Been printing out perfect prints for 4 days now abs or pla. Seriously no excuse for all the design problems in Basicly a 5th gen solidoodle printer.
Is the robo3d perfect, no the hardware is fantastic, software like soliprint sucks. But Slic3r and repetier work great.
Why did you not just use Repetier and Slic3r for the Press?????
omaha wrote:I hope the extruder problems get sorted out for everyone. I saw a design flaw that was causing my filament to buckle and I didn't want to deal with it. Sold the press on eBay and got a robo3d unit. Been printing out perfect prints for 4 days now abs or pla. Seriously no excuse for all the design problems in Basicly a 5th gen solidoodle printer.
Is the robo3d perfect, no the hardware is fantastic, software like soliprint sucks. But Slic3r and repetier work great.
Why did you not just use Repetier and Slic3r for the Press?????
Extruder was jamming all the time. Not normal for any 3d printer. Our Makergear M2 never jams or skips. Not a problem that should happen in 2015 on a brand new design.
Wanted the press to work as shown, would look sweet in our lobby.
I tried those settings.........looked great until the filament buckled again.....
Perhaps I should add that my filament diameter is 1.68, and extrusion multiplier is .65...
zburhop wrote:I tried those settings.........looked great until the filament buckled again.....
Perhaps I should add that my filament diameter is 1.68, and extrusion multiplier is .65...
Just curious if you've done the steps per mm calibration and wall thickness calibration, and your extrusion widths are .48. .65 seems far too low to me and you may be compensating for something you forgot to calibrate with such a low multiplier.
I had issues with the z-offset. I ran the soliprint z-offset calibration. Prints a good line. I am using Repetier 85 (Press) and if you look in the Slic3R settings, under layers and perimeters, you will see its trying to print at 3.5 on the first layer. Change back to .3 for 1st layer height. Also under advanced, print settings, set 1st layer extrusion value from 200% back to ZERO. This may give a good line in Soliprint, but not in Repetier. This causes it to print too much filament on first layer, causing the filament to get torn up and fail to extrude. Why? Cause its too close to the bed and trying to push too much plastic on first layer and there is no place for it to go.... Try it, you will like it. No more filament failing to feed problems at all.
Maybe because I'm a newbie, but I don't understand your explanation. Why would the 1st layer settings affect the extrusion an hour into printing?
The issue really does appear to be due to the filament getting warm and soft well before the hot end. I don't see how changing the z-offset or 1st layer settings could affect that. I successfully ran the printer for 6 hours after I removed the clear acrylic cover and left the top open.
Is there a semantic distinction between a jam and a clog?
I tried those settings.........looked great until the filament buckled again.....
What temperature are you printing at? Sounds like getting too hot in upper hot end. I run at 242 with no problems.
Skyblue wrote:I had issues with the z-offset. I ran the soliprint z-offset calibration. Prints a good line. I am using Repetier 85 (Press) and if you look in the Slic3R settings, under layers and perimeters, you will see its trying to print at 3.5 on the first layer. Change back to .3 for 1st layer height. Also under advanced, print settings, set 1st layer extrusion value from 200% back to ZERO. This may give a good line in Soliprint, but not in Repetier. This causes it to print too much filament on first layer, causing the filament to get torn up and fail to extrude. Why? Cause its too close to the bed and trying to push too much plastic on first layer and there is no place for it to go.... Try it, you will like it. No more filament failing to feed problems at all.
Maybe because I'm a newbie, but I don't understand your explanation. Why would the 1st layer settings affect the extrusion an hour into printing?
The issue really does appear to be due to the filament getting warm and soft well before the hot end. I don't see how changing the z-offset or 1st layer settings could affect that. I successfully ran the printer for 6 hours after I removed the clear acrylic cover and left the top open.
Is there a semantic distinction between a jam and a clog?
You are correct, I was not addressing your issue.
Had that happen when I ran long prints with top closed. I have changed to an external feed system, and leave top open to view print. Running at 242 degrees.
I'm having jamming issues on long prints as well. seems to be ok until about 90 minutes in, then jams. Head's at 240, bed at 70. Getting kinda frustrated.
I've been having much better luck using Hatchbox ABS at 238-242 degrees. (depending on layer thickness... .2mm at 238, and .3mm at 242). The only feed jams I've had have been issues with filament tangling while coming off of the spool.
Can anyone recommend a good spool holder? I'm not really sure what's best. I found one I could print, but it requires the printer to be able to print actual circles... which my Press isn't so good at. 
Are people letting the spool sit on it's side, and pull the filament off the top like the press spool, or putting it on a rod? Right now I have it on a dowel rod, with the printer pulling the filament from the bottom of the spool.. it usually works.
Dave
zburhop wrote:Has anyone solved the constant jamming issue. I cant seem to figure it out. My last 5 print jobs have ended in the extruder jamming up.
Hey Dude,
I've propped the material lid about halfway and have had no problem with hour+ prints. I feel the ABS gets too soft from the heat of the hot end and thus the spur gear slips. I feel it's also an issue with the number of bends as it comes from hopper to feeder.
My ABS eventuallt buckles too unless I print with the top open. The extruder stepper gets pretty warm. With the top open, the stepper temp climbs for the first hour and tops out at 147F. (Measured as best I can chasing it around with an IR thermometer). Must get even hotter with the lid shut, and that probably pushes it over the edge.
Stepper temperature matters since the stepper is bolted to the back of the extruder. The extruder acts as the heat sink for both the stepper and the cool end of the heat break.
I've been having much better luck using Hatchbox ABS at 238-242 degrees. (depending on layer thickness... .2mm at 238, and .3mm at 242). The only feed jams I've had have been issues with filament tangling while coming off of the spool.
Can anyone recommend a good spool holder? I'm not really sure what's best. I found one I could print, but it requires the printer to be able to print actual circles... which my Press isn't so good at.
Are people letting the spool sit on it's side, and pull the filament off the top like the press spool, or putting it on a rod? Right now I have it on a dowel rod, with the printer pulling the filament from the bottom of the spool.. it usually works.
Dave
This one is awesome. Im running it on my press now. Its super cheap to make too.
Dream-Cypher wrote:I've been having much better luck using Hatchbox ABS at 238-242 degrees. (depending on layer thickness... .2mm at 238, and .3mm at 242). The only feed jams I've had have been issues with filament tangling while coming off of the spool.
Can anyone recommend a good spool holder? I'm not really sure what's best. I found one I could print, but it requires the printer to be able to print actual circles... which my Press isn't so good at.
Are people letting the spool sit on it's side, and pull the filament off the top like the press spool, or putting it on a rod? Right now I have it on a dowel rod, with the printer pulling the filament from the bottom of the spool.. it usually works.
Dave
This one is awesome. Im running it on my press now. Its super cheap to make too.
That is genius
In SoliPrint 1.1 the default extrusion temperature is changed from 250 to 215! That's huge!
I finally got my printer to print again. I'm not 100% sure what did it, but I took the front heat sink off the extruder when the whole thing was cold, cleaned all the surfaces as well as I could with the little brush that they included (I thought that maybe something was keeping the heat sink from making good contact with the hot end) then I put the extruder back together. Once I had the thumb screw that holds the extruder together tight I wiggled the hot end a little bit, and it seemed to seat a bit better.
Since then I have been printing at 240 instead of 250, and I haven't had it jam again. (Lid open, of course.)
I finally got my printer to print again. I'm not 100% sure what did it, but I took the front heat sink off the extruder when the whole thing was cold, cleaned all the surfaces as well as I could with the little brush that they included (I thought that maybe something was keeping the heat sink from making good contact with the hot end) then I put the extruder back together. Once I had the thumb screw that holds the extruder together tight I wiggled the hot end a little bit, and it seemed to seat a bit better.
Since then I have been printing at 240 instead of 250, and I haven't had it jam again. (Lid open, of course.)
The wires running to the hotend pass through a channel in the heat sink. When I remove the front of the heat sink those wires pop out of the channel and when I replace the heat sink I have to push those wires back into the channel otherwise the heat sink doesn't sit properly.
It's possible you had the same issue. Something to be mindful of in the future.
That could be. I'll have to keep my eye out in the future.
I have a similar problem press extrude and retract but when i try to extrude filament it makes the thump thump noise, i have tried to extrude at 260º , and measure conductivy on the wires that control the extruder, but everithing is fine, what else can i try?
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → Constant jamming
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