Topic: Soliprint V1.1
How has your experience with Soliprint V1.1 been? I can't get it to see my Press. . . (Mac OS 10.10)
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Press → Soliprint V1.1
How has your experience with Soliprint V1.1 been? I can't get it to see my Press. . . (Mac OS 10.10)
about to give it a shot. I have a piece I've been trying to print, using RH1.06; the printer keeps jamming at very close to the same place in the print, guess we'll see if that lower temp helps.
One thing I'm noticing right off the bat, it seems much slower than RH. Maybe the printer can't handle a higher speed as well and they've slowed it down to compensate. Not sure how fast it's running compared to soliprint 1.0, I didn't use it much.
Same here, it's unable to find the printer. A solution anyone?? I'm using a Mac on OS X 10.10.2
Update: The printer is been detected on SoliPrint 1.0.0 but not on SoliPrint 1.1.0, so it seems to be a software error
Anyone having a problem calibrating the z axis? Mine won't at all with V1.1.
:-/
Anyone having a problem calibrating the z axis? Mine won't at all with V1.1.
:-/
Same issue here.
I see that they have changed the default temperature for ABS to 215 from 250.... has anyone been using that new setting successfully?
One thing I'm noticing right off the bat, it seems much slower than RH. Maybe the printer can't handle a higher speed as well and they've slowed it down to compensate. Not sure how fast it's running compared to soliprint 1.0, I didn't use it much.
There are now pauses between sections of the code...and yes it is slower. Additionally the filament seams to be coming out more stringy and less of a layer for both Fill and Outline
I see that they have changed the default temperature for ABS to 215 from 250.... has anyone been using that new setting successfully?
Comes out too cold to stick to bed (105degC) and as soon as the head comes over for a second pass it picks up the first line. This might be their solution to the over heated filament bending upstream from hot end.
Comes out too cold to stick to bed (105degC) and as soon as the head comes over for a second pass it picks up the first line. This might be their solution to the over heated filament bending upstream from hot end.
Yes... that and the inability to calibrate the z axis. I'm gong to uninstall and revert back to V1.0 later this morning.
Comes out too cold to stick to bed (105degC) and as soon as the head comes over for a second pass it picks up the first line. This might be their solution to the over heated filament bending upstream from hot end.
Yes... that and the inability to calibrate the z axis. I'm gong to uninstall and revert back to V1.0 later this morning.
My first layer isn't sticking with 1.1, for whichever reason. If I manually try to adjust Z offset, what is it actually modeling? Does a bigger z offset increase or decrease first layer height?
Has anyone externally measured the nozzle temp with 1.1? Would I be better served just manually cranking up the hot end temp?
So I too have reverted back. It helps that I've got lots of print data from the first version too.
Since going back I've found that the firmware on the printer board has kept what ever update came with the V1.1.0 which means wonky head temps and an intermittently paused print...no more fluid prints. (seriously, wtf)
Side note: "high print quality" just isn't attainable by what I've tried.
My first layer isn't sticking with 1.1, for whichever reason. If I manually try to adjust Z offset, what is it actually modeling? Does a bigger z offset increase or decrease first layer height?
Has anyone externally measured the nozzle temp with 1.1? Would I be better served just manually cranking up the hot end temp?
From another thread, Z offset is the vertical distance from probe to nozzle. Increasing it raises the bed. Mine needed adjusting going to SP 1.1 to get the print to stick. Manually, since the tool is broken.
Dunno if it's related to V1.1, but my prints are now 5% short, 10% wide, and showing gaps from too little filament.
From another thread, Z offset is the vertical distance from probe to nozzle. Increasing it raises the bed. Mine needed adjusting going to SP 1.1 to get the print to stick. Manually, since the tool is broken.
Dunno if it's related to V1.1, but my prints are now 5% short, 10% wide, and showing gaps from too little filament.
Thanks for the tip on manual calibration. I'll have to try.
I did the calculations and my prints are smaller too and I also have the same issue with the gaps.
I'm running a print right now. Everything seems to be working fine except that V.1.1 doesn't allow me to do a z-offset calibration. Super weird. The offset from V1.0 carried over but I cannot adjust that setting any longer.
I'm also having another weird issue: at the beginning of the print cycle, the Press runs the z-probe knob thingy (the bit that runs over the track on the left side of the machine) OVER THE WHOLE TRACK starting from the front of the machine and going to the back. Basically, the probe then gets pushed up our of its rest state instead of down out of its rest state. I have no idea why this is happening and it is really disconcerting. The z-probe is getting mangled because of it.
So I guess calibrating is a no-go now? I try to hit "Run Calibration" and it says that my bed temperature jumps down to 93.7 (I had it at 95) and takes a million years to get back up to 95. Then, nothing happens.
So I guess calibrating is a no-go now? I try to hit "Run Calibration" and it says that my bed temperature jumps down to 93.7 (I had it at 95) and takes a million years to get back up to 95. Then, nothing happens.
As I mentioned in the Press Calibration Instructions thread, the z calibration issue appears to be software. When looking at the log, it's showing a file not found error.
I hope solidoodle engineers are reading this board... many issues that need addressing.
One other issue I've found is the rendering of the slicer options isn't showing me all the text for all fields. Anyone else noticed this?
Agreed, z calibration doesn't work in 1.1. Switched back to 1.0 and everything was fine.
Agreed, z calibration doesn't work in 1.1. Switched back to 1.0 and everything was fine.
Same
Anyone else notice that soliprint 1.1 also updates the Press's eeprom settings?
I didn't make a detailed list, the only number I took note of was the extruder's steps per mm was decreased from 138 to 105. Made my extrusions stringy, so I bumped it back up using RH.
Anyone else notice that soliprint 1.1 also updates the Press's eeprom settings?
I didn't make a detailed list, the only number I took note of was the extruder's steps per mm was decreased from 138 to 105. Made my extrusions stringy, so I bumped it back up using RH.
105 is actually the correct number. Set it back and re-adjust the extrusion multiplier. 138 is the Marlin default and it seems they forgot to change it in the firmware that got flashed on the boards.
Really? I know I still need to break out the caliper and do some feed rate calibration... but you suggest changing the number in the software specific extrusion multiplier, instead of the hardware's eeprom?
http://wiki.solidoodle.com/extruder-calibration
Summary:
"Slic3r and Skeinforge calculate the flow rate automatically, but the extruder needs to be calibrated to carry out those calculations correctly. Adjustments can be made in the slicer settings, but it is still best to use a calibrated extruder as a starting point. "
No you have to set both. The extruder steps per mm makes sure the right amount of plastic goes in. The extrusion multiplier makes sure the right amount of plastic goes out. Just because enough plastic goes in doesn't mean the correct amount comes out because the plastic swells in the nozzle, known as die swell.
You use the calibration cube for extrusion multiplier only. It is not reasonable to set back steps per mm to match a given wall thickness. Think about retraction, and you will understand why.
If you haven't calibrated either of these, your prints will suffer from terrible accuracy
The extruder steps per mm makes sure the right amount of plastic goes in. The extrusion multiplier makes sure the right amount of plastic goes out. Just because enough plastic goes in doesn't mean the correct amount comes out because the plastic swells in the nozzle, known as die swell.
I don't think this is correct.
"extruder steps per mm" is for making sure the correct amount of plastic is going in, which in turn determines if the right amount is coming out. What goes in, comes out.
Die swelling which can be different between different plastic types (read: different filament brands) and different colors (even of the same brand) is one, but not only, reason a single "steps per mm" value won't work the same way for each filament roll you use.
You have two options then, either rewrite the "steps per mm" for each filament you use, or just use another value to fine tune it for each filament. So technically you could ignore the "extrusion multiplier" and only work with the "steps per mm" value, but you're just complicating things.
So extrusion multiplier itself doesn't do something special for handling how much plastic is coming out or handling die swelling. it is exactly what it's named, it multiplies itself with the "extruder steps per mm" value and Slic3r uses that final number. Default is 1, which makes no difference.
I don't think this is correct.
"extruder steps per mm" is for making sure the correct amount of plastic is going in, which in turn determines if the right amount is coming out. What goes in, comes out.
Die swelling which can be different between different plastic types (read: different filament brands) and different colors (even of the same brand) is one, but not only, reason a single "steps per mm" value won't work the same way for each filament roll you use.
You have two options then, either rewrite the "steps per mm" for each filament you use, or just use another value to fine tune it for each filament. So technically you could ignore the "extrusion multiplier" and only work with the "steps per mm" value, but you're just complicating things.So extrusion multiplier itself doesn't do something special for handling how much plastic is coming out or handling die swelling. it is exactly what it's named, it multiplies itself with the "extruder steps per mm" value and Slic3r uses that final number. Default is 1, which makes no difference.
I am going to disagree with this statement. "Extrusion multiplier" affects more than just steps per mm.
I will leave it up to you guys to hash this out.
... "Extrusion multiplier" affects more than just steps per mm.
Can you explain what else it effects? I'm a noob.
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