1 (edited by Claghorn 2014-12-20 03:19:42)

Topic: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

In an effort to avoid N+1 simultaneous mods to my SD2, I was planning to switch to new carriages and extruder, but keep (for now) the stock solidoodle hot end. However, when I disassemble everything, I'm left with a square of acrylic and a rectangle of plywood still cluttering it up, and no way I can see to get them off easily.

Anyone know the best way to get them off (or can I just push them as far down as possible and get it mounted in a mk5 extruder that way? :-)

2

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

You do not need the wood for the MK5. Just more clutter smile
Don't overthink it. Just take the acrylic off and swap asap. The hotend should slide out of the wood with minimal force

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

3

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

It slides around OK, but There is a lip on the PEEK at one end and the heat block and nozzle on the other and no obvious way to get enough force on anything to unscrew the heat block without crushing something :-).

4

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

Just use a side cutter and cut them off.  If you ever decide you want to go back to the original acrylic.... What am I saying you'll never want to go back wink but I have a whole assembly with hot end that I'll make you a good deal on.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

5

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

Cutting them off definitely seems like it would be simplest. I already suspect I'd never be able to reassemble the maze of acrylic that now resides in a plastic bag :-).

6

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

See I can't even give that away wink
Seriously, at this point why aren't you upgrading to an E3d?  I have a new V5 in the box I'll cut you a good deal on if you'd like.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7 (edited by Claghorn 2014-12-20 21:47:42)

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

I've got an E3D stashed away already, but I'm currently working on the simultaneous replacement of the carriages and converting to a Y direct drive, so I thought it would be nice to keep the total number of changes from growing even larger. Maybe next week after I get this much working, I'll tackle the E3D (and I still have an improved bed heater to work on someday as well :-).

My mods (past and future): http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/har … -mods.html

(And I've already been discovering that trying to think ahead and make sure you have everything you need is hopeless, so keeping the number of mods down seems like a good idea).

8

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

The more mods the better wink I hear Ya!

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

9

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

Update: A small pair of wire cutters worked wonders, gnawing through the plywood with a few bites and cracking the acrylic with a single nip. I now have a freed solidoodle hot end.

10

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

Aaugh! Might be simpler to just install the E3D along with all my other mods at this point. I finally got everything put back together, but now I find the stock solidoodle hot end sits so high on the new carriages and extruder that I can't raise the bed enough to print anything :-).

I guess my quickest fix might be to wedge something under the springs in the bed to compress them more so I can raise the bed some more with the leveling screws (the springs go floppy now before I can raise the bed enough).

11

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

You own it, might as well install it wink I don't know what board you have but if it is the stock Sang that came on your SD2 changing the firmware is rather easy.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

12 (edited by jagowilson 2014-12-23 20:53:37)

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

e3d! e3d! you'll wish you hadn't left it in the box so long! wink do you already have an mk5 for the e3d v6?

13

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

wardjr wrote:

You own it, might as well install it wink I don't know what board you have but if it is the stock Sang that came on your SD2 changing the firmware is rather easy.

I have the printrboard, but the firmware isn't the problem (I've got an ISP I've used to try different firmware before), the power supply is the problem. The socket on the printrboard isn't rated very high, so I need to do some soldering to route power directly to the mosfets if I want more power available. I've got everything planned out (I was gonna upgrade the bed heater at the same time), but I've been postponing the surgery :-).

14 (edited by jagowilson 2014-12-23 21:22:58)

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

A lot of folks use the stock PSU with the e3d. It should work fine. A supernight is never a bad idea though. I have more power than I know what to do with and that's certainly a good thing.

15

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

Yeah, I wouldn't let the PSU hold you back.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

16

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

Actually, the hot end position was a false alarm, I just had to be more careful locating the sweet spot where the combination of Z stop screw and bed leveling screws would let me get the nozzle positioned correctly. Have no fear, E3D, new bed heater, new cable management, and new power supply are on the horizon, but at least I've seen it actually print something again after this week's mods of the new carriages, mk5 extruder, and Y direct drive (pant, pant, pant, wheeze...)

http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/hardware/solidoodle/carriage/first-print.jpg

The full tale of the surprisingly painful carriage and extruder conversion can be found at:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/har … riage.html

The direct Y drive was a piece of cake in comparison:

http://home.comcast.net/~tomhorsley/har … irect.html

17 (edited by jagowilson 2014-12-24 02:38:25)

Re: Remove the last bit of plywood and acrylic from solidoodle hot end?

Claghorn's Website wrote:

All the little unexpected hitches definitely slowed me down.

Gee that's surprising wink glad you're up and running. Also, check your PMs.