1 Topic by thecure

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Topic: Trying to print gears

I've been trying to print the Botmobile gears (ABS) unsuccessfully on my new 1.0 printer. They seemed to print decently on my 2.0, but not this one.
I've tried the xyz filament and my Hatchbox filament. I originally printed the hatchbox gears at 215/70 on my Duo.
As you can (hopefully) see the gears have bowed in the middle.
Unfortunately I have the new 1.0A version, and cannot use repetier, and xyzmod software is broken, so i have no choice but to use the stock software.
i am printing at 90%, .1mm, slow speed. The temp default to 215/90.  I've tried fast speed, .2mm resolution, raft, no-raft.

I tried to print with a hairdryer set to low inside the enclosure in hopes to limit the cooling and contraction of the part.  It helped abit, but not enough.

Does anyone have any idea how I can print these successfully?

The pictures show the red XYZ filament.
Ignore the raft:

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2 Reply by rockosmodlife

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Re: Trying to print gears

What did you use for adhesion?

Repinci 1.0 + Repetier host

3 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: Trying to print gears

To be honest with all stock I don't think the 1.0 is capable of .1 layer height.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

4 Reply by johnluksas

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Re: Trying to print gears

I think you can only print precise pieces (gears, threaded items) they have to be printed in PLA because ABS in my experience is not as accurate and does deform a bit. Unfortunately PLA is not officially supported by the Da vinci 1.0.

5 Reply by thecure

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Re: Trying to print gears

rockosmodlife wrote:

What did you use for adhesion?

UHU gluestick.
I don't think adhesion is the issue.  It sticks very well.
The part is shrinking unevenly.

I wish I remember how I printed the original gears.  They came out pretty well - albeit on the Duo vs. my new 1.0

6 Reply by Lmay

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Re: Trying to print gears

Don't know if others have experienced this but color pigments do make a difference in the filaments - especially reds as they take a heavier loading of pigments to get the reds.  If you haven't already tried this, you might try to print the same thing with the same settings in black and see.  That is the color with the least amount of pigment influence (carbon only.)

I've printed several threads as well and while the thread physically work, they're remarkably poor (not quite as bad as what your photos show though) and I suspect it's a mix of issues that are influencing the outcome for you.

A friend with this same printer had a terrible time in printing from a brand new cartridge (XYZ type) in white.  Things he had printed previously would not turn out well at all - he finally gave up, switched colors to something else and good parts again.  I believe we buy those cartridges expecting some reasonable level of consistency but I doubt seriously if we're getting it.  That's why opening the door for other options is so attractive when problems are showing up.  Injection molders have the same problems from lot to lot and they're typically buying 1000 lbs and more at a time - here we are buying cartridges made from spools that may have been large but maybe not either - we don't know.  Trial and error is our bonus - alternate filaments is probably the better solution until we all agree that we get the best results of all from those damned expensive (but reliable) XYZ cartridges.  When we can say that... no clue!  Let us know if the color change offers an solution.  Thanks.

7 Reply by thecure

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Re: Trying to print gears

Thank-you for the response.
I only had a fleeting thought about the infuence of the filament colour.
Come to think of it - the original half decent parts were printed in Hatchbox white ABS.
I tried Hatchbox yellow and green and had worse results than the XYZ red you see in the pictures.

I did glue down some of the loose bushings.  I think I will finally bake my 2 month-old filament to dry it.
I don't think any of these techniques, nor the very limited XYZ print settings are going to change the outcome much.
The ABS is warping.  I firmly believe the 100C (measured) bed compared to the 60-70C bed on my Duo is the primary explanation for this warping.  The part has that much more heat to dissipate and cause shrinkage.

Unforatunely because I have the newer 1.0A machine, I cant change the firmware that would allow me to change the bed temp to experiment.

Until then, my poor daughter is without her new pink botmobile