1 Topic by parentemv

  • parentemv
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Topic: Model Remove question

Have yet to receive my printer, but have been doing a lot of reading and research. One topic that I see a lot of was problems removing model off bed. Saw a youtube video demonstrating the use of PC duster spray to cool bed. Seemed to work well. My question is this, is there a chance of the glass bed cracking due to rapid temperature change. What methods work good for you?

Thanks in advance.

2 Reply by abruski

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Re: Model Remove question

In my experience it is better not to use glue. A can of hair spray will be much better because it works with ABS and PLA and when the bed cools down the object will basically unstick itself from the bed. I haven't tried other methods (painter's tape, abs juice)

3 Reply by ryan.lee.sharples

  • ryan.lee.sharples
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Re: Model Remove question

I also did some research before ordering my printer, and ordered the below product based on forum member recommendations.

amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHXCQPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found it difficult (impossible) to get it applied without bubbles under the surface, but besides that I am 100% satisfied with adhesion and removal.  Unless something happens in the future, I have no intention of ever using anything else.

DaVinci 1.0, Stock Firmware, Stock Software.

Brand new to 3D printing, total noob.

4 Reply by johnluksas

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Re: Model Remove question

In my experience the best way is to use a scraper and get under the model and pry up. I use one that is very similar the same as the one in the pic below (Razor Blade Scraper With 5 Plastic Blades And 5 Regular Metal Blades) from ebay. orks great.

5 Reply by fawefawef

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Re: Model Remove question

I just use a glue stick and I wait for the bed to cool before removing. I've never had any issue removing a print. Usually once it's cool it pops itself loose.

6 Reply by jjc

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Re: Model Remove question

In my limited experience, waiting until the bed is at room temperature usually helps a lot. 

I've used a plastic scrapper and small ball-peen hammer (I'm starting to not do this after reading all the posts about broken glass).  I placed the scrapper at the base of a part then tapped it lightly to pop the part off.

I had to print an array of small disks (.3 inches by .07 inches tall), and the ball peen hammer approach caused them to fly all over the place.

So the next time I printed that array, I tried something else - a modification to my bed cleaning practice:

I use Elmer's Washable School Glue stick - it goes on purple and turns clear when dry, which helps a bit to tell me if I have complete coverage.  At the end of the print, after the bed is back to room temperature, if I have any trouble getting the parts to pop off just using my fingers, I wet a paper towel and drape it over the parts and the bed, and push it into the corners where the parts meet the bed. I let it sit for 2 min, then remove the parts.

I then place another wet paper towel over the print bed.  I have a 2.0 Duo, and a small sheet form a Brawny 'select a size' roll of paper towels is equal to the width of my print bed.  I let that sit for 2 min, and then wipe up the glue.  Anything that doesn't immediately come off, I rotate the ball of wet paper towel to bring a fresh face into contact with the bed and continue to wipe.  The cool thing is that the glue turns purple again when it gets wet, so that helps a lot in figuring out where to clean up.

Sometimes I'll use a wadded up dry paper towel at the end to get the glass to shine.

Engineer in the Medical Device Industry, used high end 3D printers, but exploring what can be done with inexpensive printers.  Own a Da Vinci 2.0 Duo