1 Topic by ShadowWizard

  • ShadowWizard
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Topic: Problems with slic3r

Ok, I am still using 1.1G, but have read many tutorials on how to use slic3r on it.  Add the header, base64 encode, rename to 3w.
I followed this tutorial http://www.therpf.com/f9/trials-tribula … er-220694/ but changed a few settings.  I set the bed to 110 and the extruder to 220.  Since I did not change the information on the chip, I was not expecting the 220 to work.
Anyway, here is what happens.  I send it to the printer.  The platform raises.  It waits until bed is at 90, and positions extruder above bed, and continues heating.  I think it heated it to 120 (Why?) then the extruder returned to the home position, and said it was 66% done the print.. And it hadn't printed anything.
Can someone take a look at this gcode and tell me what is wrong where?
For the record, yes, I do base64 encode before printing, and I have also done a search/replace of G1 to G0.
Thanks in advance!

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2 Reply by Weekend Avenger

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Re: Problems with slic3r

First mistake is that you set things from G0 to G1, not the reverse. G0 is a travel command that isn't supported under the 1.1G firmware.

While my DaVinci can get the bed temp up to 115C, it does take a very long time to reach that. It can get up to 120C but will never print, the light flashes and it errors out if I try it.

Now when I print a file similar to yours I'm running it directly off the SDCard, so I can't tell you how a stock version of XYZware will mangle a file you try to send with it. w34's modded version gets rid of those issues.

3 Reply by ShadowWizard

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Re: Problems with slic3r

Yes, I did some looking at my settings and junk.  Noticed the bed was set to go to 115 for the first layer, and 110 for the others.  So I guess it for to 115.
Anyway, I have tried the modded xyzware, and its working like a charm!
Now my problem is figuring out how to get the stuff OFF the glass.  I was under the impression that the glue was to make sure it stuck to the glass, but does it serve another purpose, such as helping get the object off the glass?  I ask because I just printed out an object with no glue on the glass (thought a temp of 110 would make sure it stuck), and I can't get the bottom off the glass.  I broke the part, and am trying to get under there with an exacto knife, but broke one blade before I gave up.  So now one of my "bed covers" of glass has parts of a print on it, cause it won't come off.  Any suggestions what to use/what settings to use to make the part easier to come off the glass, but still able to stick to it?

4 Reply by ggunners

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Re: Problems with slic3r

My prints with the glue stick pop right off after the bed reaches ambient temperature. Trying to remove the print before the bed temp drops is *very* frustrating.

SD2 Expert stock, ABS fume fan,
XYZ DaVinci 1.0 stock ABS, Simplify3D
QUBD Two-Up PLA, new 3D printed X gantry, Y idler, flex z coupler, extruder mount, E3D Lite

5 Reply by scobo (edited by scobo 2014-10-25 06:52:08)

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Re: Problems with slic3r

ggunners wrote:

My prints with the glue stick pop right off after the bed reaches ambient temperature. Trying to remove the print before the bed temp drops is *very* frustrating.

Absolutely !
I wait for the bed temp to drop to about 70°C or lower and my prints usually just come away by hand.

Davinci 1.0 with repetier firmware & E3D V6 Lite
Anycubic Photon DLP printer, Einscan-S 3D scanner
Simplify3d, 123D Design, Meshmixer
http://www.thingiverse.com/scobo/designs

6 Reply by ShadowWizard

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Re: Problems with slic3r

I have not been so lucky.  I usually need to pry them off.  I use an exacto knife now, because I just barely get it under and the part pops off, but there is still the "Large print cracking the glass" problem I am having.  Same print, twice, cracked my glass.  I have been experimenting with different materials and stuff. I was posting in another thread, but think I am gonna start my own.