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Topic: Updated Circle Calibration?

Hi, so I've seen the video on calibrating the SD2 for "perfect circles". My circles on my SD4 are coming out pretty ovalish and leaving some gaps, so I want to get it calibrated. Does anyone have instructions for calibrating? Do the instructions on centering the rod still apply, because I see a metal mount on the back of the printer now. How do I loosen and tighten the belts? There are no screws by the motors for me to loosen or tighten. I noticed there are printed parts in the front corners of the printer which hold the belt tight, and I've tried messing with that, but it seems to only change the tension on one end of the belt. How do I get it calibrated?

Thanks for the help!

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Re: Updated Circle Calibration?

My bet is that 90% of your circle problems are from uneven belt tensions. Print This to measure the belt tension. This is a great tool to have.
In my opinion, it seems that your X and Y belts do not have an equal tension. To adjust the belts, use the hex wrench that came with your SD4. The screws that adjust your belt tension are found on the carriages.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: Updated Circle Calibration?

I think there's more than one thread here on how to achieve 'perfect circles.'  (use the search tool)  It is all about belt tension, not too loose or tight, and equal between X and Y.

Be patient and go through the steps.  You are assured to get excellent circles.

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Re: Updated Circle Calibration?

Not just belt tension though. If you are getting nice perfect ovals, you may need to calibrate the X and Y axis, and a little bitty nickle test isn't really accurate enough. I went through a lot of problems trying to print an electronics cover plate with the holes in the right place, and scanning in the first (bad) copy on a flatbed scanner so I could measure the hole locations using gimp allowed me to compute much more accurate x and y calibration values.

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Re: Updated Circle Calibration?

My question isn't necessarily what to calibrate, but how to calibrate. The main thing is adjusting belt tension that I'm confused on. I know there are mounting pieces in the front corners of the case, but that only adjusts tension on one side. How do I get even tension on the back side of the belt?

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Re: Updated Circle Calibration?

You could just loosen the set screw on both drive pulleys on the fear drive rod.  Then adjust the tension and move the gantry back and forth stopping near the middle with both sides resting in a nice neutral position.  Then tighten the set screws.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: Updated Circle Calibration?

Could I also loosen the part the holds the belt to the assembly? I can get pictures later if you're not sure what I'm talking about.

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Re: Updated Circle Calibration?

I suppose you could and pictures would be great.  The way I described earlier is the only sure fire way I know of to ensure true balance between those two belts.  To make matters worse you'll discover that the belt tension changes depending on the location of the gantry.
That's why You want to stop it in the middle so you are splitting the difference.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions