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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → bottom of printout is better than top
The corners on this part (Ian's Dial Mount) are suspect, but the more you head towards the top, the worse the quality is. The side that is supposed to be flat, so that it can be glued to the Gauge Mount Hole, is uselessly distorted. Could it be because the part is getting smaller, and I have not specified the right cooling time? Or is it something else?
Yeah, you're going too fast, and the previous layer doesn't have a chance to firm up. What material and temperatures?
the top is caused by improper cooling. Small features like that your putting hot plastic on top of hot plastic, so it deforms. Either increase (or activate) slow down, or use orbit. The bottom does look like crap as well however, so you probably have your feeds and speeds off as well. Did you calibrate your extruder? And what were you running for speeds?
Yeah that's easily the worst quality full print I've seen. I agree looks like the layer isn't cooled in time.
Thanks!
ABS. I'm using Repetier-Host with Slicer. I did not have Cooling enabled. Is "Slow down if layer print time is below 15 seconds" reasonable? What about "Min print speed" of 10 mm/sec? I measured the diameter of the filament, but probably have not fully "calibrated" the extruder. Too excited...
What temperature (bed and extruder)?
Have you tried pointing a fan at the print?
bed is 100; extruder is 200
bed is 100; extruder is 200
Do 60/185.
60 is too low for the bed.. abs will not stick enough
60 is too low for the bed.. abs will not stick enough
Its been working for me?
If you have trouble getting it to stick, maybe 80C bed temp on first few layers.
That did not work. When the part was about 1/4 inch tall, I noticed that the two "ears" on the thumbscrew were still soft. They would rise up after the print head went over them, and then the print head would push them down when it returned. Eventually the "ears" hardened up to the point where the extruder popped the part off of the bed (perhaps because the bed was colder than before). I was running 70 on the bed and 185 on the extruder.
At this point, I'm a bit stuck. I cannot print the thumbscrews, so leveling the bed would be difficult. I tried printing the box to perform the calibration, but the solid bottom of the box would not print (perhaps for the same reason that the supports would not print on the thumbscrews). I'm not sure which problem to try to resolve first.
What is the solid bottom of the box doing?
You can still level the bed without the thumbscrews. Just use a hex driver on the heads of the screws from the top. You can poke it through the Kapton, it won't hurt anything. The thumbscrews are just for ease of use. It's possible that you won't be able to get them to print without a fan. The fan will cool those overhanging perimeters fast enough that they will hopefully harden before they get a chance to curl much.
Another trick I read which might help is to increase the nozzle size in slicer from .35 to maybe .38. This will cause the threads to get placed a little further apart. Those overhanging perimeters will have a little less support from the layers below, so there is a little extra pull from gravity to counter the curling.
This print is small and fast enough that you can also just take a little dollar store fan or hand held fan to point it at the part while it is printing. I did this on all kinds of prints before doing the fan mod and it helped... I wouldn't do it for long periods though because it might cool down the bed and or cool down the nozzle even if the thermistor says it is at 200... Might help you get through till doing the fan mod which I think everyone finds is a practical requirement when trying enough prints. Also, you may want to up the cooling time to 30 seconds or so...
I finally got the box to print by taking a hint from another thread and decreasing the first layer feed rate to 25% of normal. That made a huge difference!
So much to tweak! I'm torn between loving the tweaking and just wanting the thing to work!
This print is small and fast enough that you can also just take a little dollar store fan or hand held fan to point it at the part while it is printing. I did this on all kinds of prints before doing the fan mod and it helped... I wouldn't do it for long periods though because it might cool down the bed and or cool down the nozzle even if the thermistor says it is at 200... Might help you get through till doing the fan mod which I think everyone finds is a practical requirement when trying enough prints. Also, you may want to up the cooling time to 30 seconds or so...
We've been surprised by the demand for extra fans. Perhaps we will make a standardized version of this mod.
i run a bed temp of 95 to 100 and leave it on all the time, my end gcode drops extruder to 100C and bed is set to 100, I am surprised by just how much stickier even those 5 degrees makes, 85 for me is nowhere near sticky enough. ABS.
i run a bed temp of 95 to 100 and leave it on all the time, my end gcode drops extruder to 100C and bed is set to 100, I am surprised by just how much stickier even those 5 degrees makes, 85 for me is nowhere near sticky enough. ABS.
This seems to vary quite a bit from customer to customer.
I imagine the ambient temp would change this a lot, and this will be dependent on whether they have a case or not and the temp where they are printing.
probably lawsy, I would say it varys a lot with the filament used too..
running all the time with the standard case on, internal case temp seems to be around the 35C mark during printing.
probably lawsy, I would say it varys a lot with the filament used too..
running all the time with the standard case on, internal case temp seems to be around the 35C mark during printing.
It seems like there is a great deal of interest in heat regulation. Solidoodle might be interested in providing some extra heat gear in the future.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → bottom of printout is better than top
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