Bad first layer

Have you tried it with the stock solidoodle software?

Pretty sure the extrusion multiplier should be 1, not .5
Im sure the more experienced printers on here can confirm...

Maybe bump the bed upto 90-95. Compare results.

I think you are confusing Extrusion Width and Extrusion Multiplier.  Setting Extrusion width causes it to be calculated automatically, or you can set it explicity to something like .42.  This is the width of the thread laid down.

Extrusion Multiplier is a fudge factor for the flow rate as calculated by Slic3r.  Slic3r calculates the flow automatically based on Nozzle size, filament diameter, speed, layer height and thread width.   That calculated flow gets multiplied by the Extrusion Multiplier.  A setting of 1 means no change.  The flow rate as calculated may not in reality result in the correct flow.  If you have extrusion width set to .42, you might actually be getting something like .6mm threads.

In that case you reduce the Extrusion Multiplier to adjust Slic3r's calculation.  .42 (the width you want) is 70% of .6 (the width you got) so you would set the Extrusion Multiplier to .7 to dial back the flow.

You find out what thread width you are getting by printing a box with 1 perimeter and 0 infill.  Stop it before it puts the top on, and measure the wall.

Setting the temperature to 90 helped with the sticking.

But when I put in 0 in the Z offset the plastic didn't came out, because it was so tight between the nozzle tip and the bed (correct me if that sounds odd) So i put in 0.3 now in the offset
And I tried Multiplier to 1, and there was too much plastic floating around (the nozzle pushed a lot in front of itself)
The bad picture shows multiplier of 0.7, width of 0.42 and 100% first layer (?). You can see there is too much on the first layer there.
The end result isn't thaat bad, but the wall thickness is 0.99, and it should be around 0.42 right? So that's why turned the multiplier down to 0.5 earlier. Hmm, I must be doing something wrong here...

That is why it so strange. That guide seems so logical, but I thought 0.5 was a bit way off default values. I will test more tomorrow.
Maybe it's better to adjust the Z-stop screw instead of put a value in Z Offset...?

Thanks for some good info. When I tried the paper method seems like a good procedure.
I will try your settings tonight.

The picture was uploaded, but didn't Add File.

105 is probably high, but its been working so I don't screw with it. I drop the bed to 90 after the first layer.

If you set Altitude and Additional Height to 0, then the first layer will start at the homing height set by the endstop.  This way you can eyeball the first layer and control the squish by adjusting the screw.  This is a quicker way to dial it in than reslicing every time with SF.

If you want to be more objective about it, you can set the endstop to home directly on the bed.  Then set Altitude to 0 and Additional Height Over Layer Thickness to 1.  This would make the first layer the same as all other layers at your set layer height.

If you are doing a raft, you would make it wider by turning up the flow, or increasing Base Layer Thickness Over Layer Thickness.  If you aren't using a raft, you can turn up the Object First Layer flow rate or turn down the feed rate to create a wider extrusion.  This will give you a wider thread for the first layer, giving more area for sticking, without reducing the height of the first layer like you do when squishing with the Z screw.  If the height of the model needs to be dimensionally accurate to .1mm, this would be the way to go.  However I don't think Skeinforge will know what the actual extrusion width of the first layer will be, so there may be a bit of a lip at the bottom.

In Slic3r, it can be a good idea to home directly on the platform.  Set the first layer height directly to .3.  If you are printing at .3, then that makes it the same as the rest of the print.  If you are printing at .1mm a first layer of .3 will help smooth out any irregularities in the print bed. 

To improve stick, you can tell Slic3r to use a much larger Extrusion Width for the first layer to create more surface area for sticking.  Since Slic3r knows how wide the first layer extrusion is supposed to be, it will account for that in the toolpath.  As a result, you should be able to get an extra wide base layer without getting a lip on the bottom of the print like you get when squishing it mechanically.

The trick to this is setting the endstop to home on the bed.  When you get down to tenths of a millimeter, it can be really hard to see if it is touching.  If you see the nozzle rise up a bit, it is probably already pushing, which is more than you want.

If you are printing on aluminum with kapton, you can use a multimeter to find out when the nozzle touches, by having the nozzle and bed complete a circuit.  I demonstrated this in a video here - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXhD2MQRs4A

If you are printing on glass, you could tape a metal feeler gauge to the bed and touch the lead to that.  Then when you are done adjusting the endstop, it will be at a known height.  You could turn the screw the right amount to adjust it the rest of the way, or compensate in software.  In Slic3r you would do this with Z Offset, and in Skeinforge you would use Altitude.

If you are trying to make the raft easier to remove, experiment with the interface settings.  The raft settings are aimed at getting a good stick to the bed.  Interface is a layer that goes between the raft and object.  Set it to 1 layer to turn it on.  Turn down the flow rate to get thinner threads, and experiment with that and the infill density to see if you can get something that will let go easily.