New SD3 Printrboard Questions?

1. if you mean 'always on', then to any of the 12V connections such as LEDS etc...
1a. if you mean a PWM controlled one for use during printing, then attach a header to the pins marked "Fan". No more than 200ma current though
2. Same as 1 above (not 1a! )
3. Yes. Stepper drivers run hot under any load of 1A or greater.
4. "new" power supply - isn't it the same 12.5amp one just with a barrel-jack on it ? If its still only 12.5amp - you can theoretically add the fans, but its really pushing it. The Solidoodle draws around 12.2amps all by itself, leaving a measly 300ma max that you can use. I would strongly suggest an upgrade.

For information on your board, because Solidoodle continue to violate their licence requirements and not provide the information, go to http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrboard . The solidoodle version is functionally identical, with the addition of 2 extra 12v headers - and all the other headers not populated....

Great stuff - thanks very much, I will have a look at this shortly.

EDIT: Cool, So the only thing left is to shed some light on what specific bootloader you are shipping it with, and how you 'officially' want to reflash the firmware since that will be better than us giving out a method thats different from yours I'd hate to suggest people beat it into submission using LUFA if you aren't

http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/view … amp;t=1975

These are not the correct values but they can easily be used as a guide.

Any chance there will be a guide on how to use the SD card slot?

All of the suggested examples here for power supplies ship to Oz. I got two of the dell 500w ones ex-lidcombe in Sydney, and sure electronics on ebay ship the meanwells in 5days if you pay the 15-25 for FedEx. Search replacement PSU for many examples

SD card,  you need to enable it via firmware and simply the same instructions as per a printrbot apply.. But the SD card itself is kinda useless since you need a pc to send the geode commands to start the jobs, and then need to stay connected to the printer to home it and control it... Better to get the LCD running so you can truly standalone print

Full of noise + ripple, as its designed to be upstream of two downstream chargers that do actual smoothing. You need a flat smooth low-ripple low-noise PSU.. hence the use of Dell's in a lot of instances as thats also precisely what an enterprise server needs. This PSU is also 'constant current' - meaning it will let voltages wanderer around in order to gurantee a current rating - great for charging a battery, crap for logic levels that are designed to be at a constant voltage...
"Not good for this purpose" is the summary statement...

If you want a 'off the shelf' PSU... then buy the MeanWell ones.. available at several places on the internets, but I personally use Sure Electronics quite a bit for MeanWell supplies.

http://www.meanwell.com/search/gs220/default.htm

This is the most appropriate PSU for a 3D Printer that is 'off the shelf' and is used by Lawsy up in Qld for his Solidoodle and a few others have also purchased it who didn't want to deal with open-enclosure supplies..... http://www.soliforum.com/topic/1819/hea … isonsstls/

Also - the modification are on the DC side of the DELL - its no more dangerous than your entire Solidoodle Motherboard is .. so I don't think you are introducing any further danger than already exists with the OEM powersupply... I would certainly agree if the modifications required where on the AC side of the circuit - I've posted my comments about how 99% of people should run screaming from AC in other threads But its DC side only.. *shrug*.. and no different to your existing supply..... But thats just my opinion...