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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → 5mm filament for 3mm nozzle possible?
Just throwing this out there. Seems we can make our own diameter do you think it's possible to make thicker filament.
In saying that does anyone have input on the difficulties of extruding through quite a thick nozzle?
Reason I ask is say I would like to build a shoe box for example. I don't really can about definition so the thicker and faster the better.
Obviously requires quite a custom hotend so extruder strength and the heater all come into it.
To a certain extent, it should be fine. I haven't tried much over 3.5mm though.
In terms of the the printer extruder, I suspect it will still be ok. You may need a more powerful heater, but then again I haven't monitored the on/off times which would answer some of this question.
Bearing in mind that the volume of plastic in a given length multiplies by the square of the radius, 5mm is a much higher volume than 3mm.
I think the reason 3mm was originally chosen was due to the prevalence of 3mm filament for plastic welding.
Then again, then nice thing about 3D printing and a Filastruder is that you can experiment and try it out. If the larger diameter doesn't work, you can plug the hole in your Filastruder nozzle with some threaded brass rod or a brass bolt. I read that Ian did this when swapping from horizontal to vertical extrusion.
Regarding the blank nozzle I received from Tim is it safe to drill with 3 different mms in a triangle and just plug up the 2 that aren't being used or is there a reason why it's in the middle?
I'm sure Tim will be along shortly, but given that Ian has drilled one of his through one of the flats to get it extruding vertically while still mounting the Filastruder horizontally, I can't see a problem.
The plastic is liquid at the time of extrusion, so the pressure forces will be equal in all directions, so I can't see the exact location of the hole being an issue.
I would however be careful of having the holes too close together in case you leave quite thin walls which will be weaker (of course if they have threaded bolts in then this will help).
I suppose the reason you want to do this is to try different sizes. Why not simply drill a larger diameter hole and tap it (e.g. 8mm or 10mm) and then use a selection of bolts with different diameter through holes drilled in them. That way you only have one hole in the brass nozzle.
Regarding the blank nozzle I received from Tim is it safe to drill with 3 different mms in a triangle and just plug up the 2 that aren't being used or is there a reason why it's in the middle?
Would not recommend that. I would recommend separately sized nozzles.
Problems with off-center:
1.) Plugging them. The internal pressure is around 200psi.You really can only do it by making threaded holes. Then, you when you switch the active nozzle, plastic will get in the threads and bake, cementing that plug.
2.) Making a smaller threaded nozzle. You really need a tapered thread, though you can get away with a standard thread if it is long enough.
It is much easier just to get a few regularly sized nozzles. Btw, wall thickness would not be a problem here. One issue with being drastically off center is then plastic in part of the melt zone has a much longer path to the nozzle hole, so it stagnates and cooks.
Btw, wall thickness would not be a problem here.
I meant the wall between adjacent holes, (3 holes really close together). But as we both agreed 3 holes isn't a good idea.
Would not recommend that. I would recommend separately sized nozzles.
Problems with off-center:
1.) Plugging them. The internal pressure is around 200psi.You really can only do it by making threaded holes. Then, you when you switch the active nozzle, plastic will get in the threads and bake, cementing that plug.
2.) Making a smaller threaded nozzle. You really need a tapered thread, though you can get away with a standard thread if it is long enough.It is much easier just to get a few regularly sized nozzles. Btw, wall thickness would not be a problem here. One issue with being drastically off center is then plastic in part of the melt zone has a much longer path to the nozzle hole, so it stagnates and cooks.
Makes sense, thanks for the clarification, didn't think about the longer path and stagnation.
Given the above point, is there merit in the entire rear of the nozzle being a concave taper?
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Filastruder → 5mm filament for 3mm nozzle possible?
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