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Topic: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

Just ordered my SD2!!!! smile Been researching on here for months. I am an engineer/design and have several fun projects I am looking at creating. Some of which involve small,custom products. I am looking to use the printer to make small piece/parts for my larger project (like electrical enclosure, brackets,hinges).

My Ideas:
Print/make a airsoft gun even if non functional for gears and loads just as fit finishing and sliding and turning of components.
phone case
small fun household things (xmas ornaments, toothbrush holder)

Tech questions:
Probably dumb: but with a 6x6 bed does that mean I can layout a 8" part diagonally across the center if it is not too wide?

Molded inserts: is it possible to stop or stage the program/extruder to stop momentarily? If so I was thinking can you mold say a brass threaded insert cutout half way as it is building up, then pause the machine, physically lay the insert in the nested plastic then continue the print so it prints the plastic around the item? I was thinking you can lay threaded nuts or led lights or wiring into there potion then mold around them.

Printed Assemblies,Gears: I have seen several examples of parts fully printed with gears and shafts all in place. Is this possible with the SD2? As an example can you print a simple roller bearing, the inner outer race and the balls inside then when done just break them loose a little and it will spin?do you have to design small supports between the spaces? or just leave the space there (even it is is .1") and let it dry in place?

Painting,Finishing: Have people gotten quality looking finishes on final parts? If you use ABS and at .1mm I know there are small ridges but I mean if you sand/acetone/ paint with filler and brush or spray with base coat/clear coat can parts look finished?

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

Welcome to the forum.

You are essentially limited to the 6x6x6 build area. I might even advise that you make parts slightly smaller than that.

Printing "part in part" is very challenging with our system, and I would say that it is almost always better to print the parts and assemble them in separate stages. That said, it is possible to lay a part inside of a printed part as it is printing. Good planning will insure better results, but this procedure is very difficult to perfect.

While there is an ongoing conversation regarding finishing techniques, I personally prefer to keep the prints as is. This seems to be the practice of most of the 3D printing community. There are issues with sanding down the parts, as the ridges provide a greater challenge to sanding than most expect.

Painting is a separate issue. As it turns out, many paint varieties simply do not adhere to ABS. I have seen good results with nail polish, and other very sticky pigments, but spray paint and normal acrylic paint sets have proven surprisingly infective.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

Thank you

Yes I understand being smaller then the 6x6x6 build but I meant can you lay out down the middle say a 7" rod diagonal and have it print that way? Since the center of the 6x6 table is 8.48" long? (a^2+b^2=c^2 thing)

Yes I hear yeah on the print in place assembly. Maybe once I get better to try it but then brings up another point. For general tolerance  does the printer provide good enough clearances for snug fits (assuming correct design) like for making RC car gears or an iphone case that snaps around the iphone. Are they actually usable and not totally slip shod?

As for finish yes you would have to prep the surface but if you find the right process it is ABS and it can be painted as such? Like painting car ABS ground effects smile

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

I just finished a post on finishing ABS in a tumbler here - http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … finishing/

Also see my post about using acetone vapor here - http://www.soliforum.com/topic/183/diy- … g-station/

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

IanJohnson wrote:

I just finished a post on finishing ABS in a tumbler here - http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … finishing/

Also see my post about using acetone vapor here - http://www.soliforum.com/topic/183/diy- … g-station/

Impressive Ian! I had suggested months ago in other venues that a tumbler solution might work. I am glad you have gotten good results. Last I checked on the vapor bath was the somewhat "melty" yoda head you came up with. I'm a little concerned the vapor bath route could be dangerous for some users, but the results were pretty nice.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

jjcuff1 wrote:

Thank you

Yes I understand being smaller then the 6x6x6 build but I meant can you lay out down the middle say a 7" rod diagonal and have it print that way? Since the center of the 6x6 table is 8.48" long? (a^2+b^2=c^2 thing)

Yes I hear yeah on the print in place assembly. Maybe once I get better to try it but then brings up another point. For general tolerance  does the printer provide good enough clearances for snug fits (assuming correct design) like for making RC car gears or an iphone case that snaps around the iphone. Are they actually usable and not totally slip shod?

As for finish yes you would have to prep the surface but if you find the right process it is ABS and it can be painted as such? Like painting car ABS ground effects smile


Tolerances allow for parts that fit together very snugly. We have made some cool model rocket parts in the shop this way.

Former Solidoodle employee, no longer associated with the company.

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

I have printed a self designed roller bearing with support on "everywhere" in skeinforge, it took some digging and cleaning to get all the support material off but it works just fine. 

The other comment about embedding items into your print should work, there is a pause function in pronterface but you'd have to make sure it's totally below the surface of the head for the next pass so the extruder tip doesn't bump whatever you're inserting.  I think it would be very tricky to get this to work and you'd have to be hovering over the print and ready. 

As an aside for the finishing aspect, I purchased and tried a hobby airbrush sandblaster kit which didn't touch the ridges, but I'm convinced with more air pressure this would be a much faster alternative to tumble deburring.  I just have to convince Ian to do the experimenting.. haha

Welcome to the community though, look forward to seeing what you come up with.

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

Thank you, Yes I am so excited. I have been designing commercial packaging and process equipment, large scale high detail for years in solidworks. But to have this capability at home opens up a whole new world of great ideas and even possible inventions.

I agree about the inserts have to be a complete drop in out of the way to avoid contact not too feasible.

The bearing idea can you send me a link to a images just to see what what is capable and what the finished product looked like

I really would like to make upper and lower 1911 parts for fun. See how much strength you can design into plastic design with various webs/ribs and minimal metal usage

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

I printed a bearing with inner and outer races using the default software (Pronterface and Skeinforge) as a once piece unit. You have to turn on support layers in Skeinforge when printing. After the print is finished, the support layers are easily peeled off and the bearing does roll. It is not the smoothest rolling bearing but it does function. I would recommend a small sanding tool on the bearings because not all of them are perfectly round. All in all, it is possible to produce an obeject like this and make it functional. I am attaching a picture.

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

Sweet exactly what I was looking for, So did you tried a making it a sealed unit or tapered LOL

SD2 owner- Surestepr, filament holder,QUBD servo and heaters, glass bed
Print for fun and for parts for my sports cars
current car is 88 IROC

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

I'm interested  in the blasting as well.  Rotary tumbling is pretty rough, and no good for anything remotely delicate.  Vibratory would be better (Shapeways does this) and would only be about a $160 investment.  If more air pressure works better, then it might be worth buying a blaster to try out.  I would the gun, compressor and media to start   I wouldn't want to spend too much on equipment to try out, but if I go too cheap I might end up with something that doesn't work while somethine more expensive might have.

I figure I would start out in the backyard.  If it works, it would be worth spending the $120 for a blast cabinet.  However the thing I like about a vibratory tumbler is there would be no skill involved in getting an even finish.  Time and randomness takes care of that.  That is also why I like acetone vapor over brushing, washing, or dipping.  The process provides the consistency.  The other methods always left brush strokes, drips, etc.

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

IanJohnson wrote:

I'm interested  in the blasting as well.  Rotary tumbling is pretty rough, and no good for anything remotely delicate.  Vibratory would be better (Shapeways does this) and would only be about a $160 investment.  If more air pressure works better, then it might be worth buying a blaster to try out.  I would the gun, compressor and media to start   I wouldn't want to spend too much on equipment to try out, but if I go too cheap I might end up with something that doesn't work while somethine more expensive might have.

I figure I would start out in the backyard.  If it works, it would be worth spending the $120 for a blast cabinet.  However the thing I like about a vibratory tumbler is there would be no skill involved in getting an even finish.  Time and randomness takes care of that.  That is also why I like acetone vapor over brushing, washing, or dipping.  The process provides the consistency.  The other methods always left brush strokes, drips, etc.

It's not as consistent but you could be more careful in the delicate areas.  You couldn't tumble a part with thin sections but you could do so with a sandblasting. 

I'm going to see if I can hook mine up to my air compressor for more than the bottled compressed air produces, I have to read up on it.  I have a 6 month old at home and about an hour a night free time which is usually spent doing something else.  I've got to set a weekend aside to move my projects along.

13 (edited by ysb 2012-10-18 18:25:08)

Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

IanJohnson wrote:

I'm interested  in the blasting as well.  Rotary tumbling is pretty rough, and no good for anything remotely delicate.  Vibratory would be better (Shapeways does this) and would only be about a $160 investment......


one of my friend use this tumbler to clean firearms bullets. ( http://www.cabelas.ca//store/?ID=2700&section=1187 )
i give him an ABS piece to test it. i will tell you tomorrow if it's a good idea ... for 100$ at home (89$ +tax +shipping) it will be a good choice.
it use corn cob media. it's like sand , so it's good for details printing (and you can buy it in pet shop for lizard home for half the price... wink )

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

You could try one of these for cheaper, I know this is small but I've seen bigger ones for kids science kits and such while shopping. 

http://www.toysrus.com/graphics/product_images/pTRU1-9131651dt.jpg

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Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

Corn cob and walnuts is used to remove surface rust and put some shine on.  I don't think it will be enough to remove the amount of plastic needed to flatten the layer lines, it will probably just add some gloss to it.  I would be interested in seeing what that tumbler does with some harder, more abrasive media.

16 (edited by ysb 2012-10-19 12:52:30)

Re: Newbie: bedsize & other printing basics

perhaps with some true dry Sand ??.. it will be enough abrasive for abs... will try this after the Cob..

EDIT : ok.. you are right Ian, the result is not good... zero effect of the Corn cob  media on the abs object..

i will try somethink else..