Are you printing at .1mm? Those seem like insane times, otherwise. You can hollow the print and put a 45 degree chamfer between the wall and the top. It can handle the 45 degree overhang. Make the chamfer deep enough that it only needs to bridge about 40-50mm across the middle when it gets to the top layers. Make the top at least 5-10mm thick so there are enough layers after the bridging to make an even support for the top solid layers.
Update your firmware to the latest version from Github from https://github.com/mlaws/solidoodle2-ma … /Marlin_v1
Set your external perimeters to 50, perimeters to 100, fill at 100 with line pattern, try solid fill at 80 or 100. The printer can go that fast, but at high speeds tends to overshoot giving you a slight blob up the corners. Keeping the external perimeters low will hopefully prevent that, and then let the inner loops run fast. Using line file gives the printer a chance to get up to speed as well. Go with 4 solid layers since the line fill doesn't provide as much support. Also when you hollow the print, keep the sides at maybe 5mm thick so it isn't trying to draw fill that is only 1mm wide.
Additionally, if you are printing .1mm layers, set fill to every 3 layers. Also run your temperature at 200-205 to help the ABS melt fast enough for extruding at high speed. I've found that I can go 100 without the extruder skipping. You might be able to push that to 150. With the new firmware, the Solidoodle's speed is limited by the extruder, rather than its ability to move in X and Y.
