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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Prints sticking too well
Hey Guys,
I have an odd problem... Usually we hear about people having difficulty getting prints to stick to the bed, but I have the opposite problem.. they are sticking too well and are very very difficult to remove. I usually run my bed at 80C.
Any tips for making prints a bit easier to take off? I might adjust my z axis so that it doesn't smush the plastic into the bed on the first layer as much and see if that helps.
Are they that hard to remove even at room temperature? I found that sometimes a print that I can't seem to pry off with a scraper can sometimes be removed more easily by grabbing it with some pliers and twisting.
I get this sometimes too... it's different for different filament for me. I found the pliers work pretty well on some parts, even if a tiny edge comes up, a plastic scraper wedge under that tiny edge usually allows it to pop right off.
Are they that hard to remove even at room temperature? I found that sometimes a print that I can't seem to pry off with a scraper can sometimes be removed more easily by grabbing it with some pliers and twisting.
They are very difficult to remove even at room temperature, they don't become much easier to remove when they cool for me... maybe a little bit.
I have been using pliers, but the problem is I damage the surface of the print with them because they are stuck down so bad that the pliers slip along the surface of the print.
Is there something I could put on the print bed to help with getting them off, anything short of printing a raft?
If what you're printing you make several of, you might consider making a single print 'wrench' to fit the profile of it. The easiest way I've found on mine is 2 minutes before the print ends, I turn the bed temp to 85C, by then it has had sufficient time to cool, and if it has a large base area, a little twist is easier than scraping or pulling it straight up. I'm still using the original kapton that came with it, and it has about 3 tears about the size of the diameter of a pencil, and even with those they seem to pop up pretty easy without increasing the tearing.
My replacement kapton and a different spool of filament, and washing the bed with acetone before I printed was the perfect storm of making my parts stick too well.
I've seen then replaced with yet more kapton from a different source, and I've had much better luck.
What's wrong with putting a bit of oil before printing (I'm new and never printed yet, this might be a stupid idea.....)
Hey Guys,
I have an odd problem... Usually we hear about people having difficulty getting prints to stick to the bed, but I have the opposite problem.. they are sticking too well and are very very difficult to remove. I usually run my bed at 80C.
Any tips for making prints a bit easier to take off? I might adjust my z axis so that it doesn't smush the plastic into the bed on the first layer as much and see if that helps.
i print with 190C for the extruder and 100C for the Bed... let it cool to 80/85 and zero problem of sticking..
so 80C seem to me a bit Low no ?
I've found setting the first layer to 95 for the bed and then 90 for the rest woks great. I can separate parts even without cooling the bed first.
Maybe another stupid contribution (in addition to the oil idea)... but why not just put a thin sheet of plastic (or paper/metal/... ?) on the plate before printing to make getting the object out easier ?
Just replaced my Kapton with the .2mm replacement that shipped with it. Even after rubbing down with acetone they BARELY stick. Had to go back to 200/100 heating settings just to get a few to stick.
Might be an option to try, though near the end of the spectrum.
Caucasion, try hair spray. I have done my last several prints on bare glass with hairspray, and it has been working. The prints have been about 3" across at the most, and with a brim. I don't know if it would be enough for really large flat objects, but with Kapton it would probably provide the extra stick you need. It seems to add just enough texture to give it some extra grip.
If you spray the bed, be sure to hold a piece of paper or something in front of the Z rod so you don't get any sticky hairspray in the threads. The nice thing about using a plate of glass clipped to the aluminum is you can take it out to spray it or put Kapton on.
I'll give it a shot. I think the initial kapton having some wear on it helped, and the brand new square may just need a few prints/extracted prints to get that same roughness.
i recently swapped out my kapton... After over 100 prints - some 5" in diameter - my original kapton was shot.
Of course, i couldn't find the replacement SD sent with my SD2, however, before I even received my SD2 I ordered a roll of Kapton tape on Ebay, from China. I made the mistake of getting 100mm wide, and had to use 2 pieces to cover the base, leaving a very slight seam up the middle. - very slight, perhaps .01 mm.
I think this kapton is better than the stock stuff. MUCH cheaper too. And that seam actually seems to be helping release the prints a bit easier.
the backup kapton I got from SD was way better than the first piece... my cheap roll is similar to the one that shipped.
I think the difference is the replacement square is 2mil vs 1mil.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → Prints sticking too well
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