You are not logged in. Please login or register.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → STL Sharing & Print Showoff → Dragon at .3 and .1 mm resolution
The high res printing is improving... I would like to start working on some sort of cooling fan as well... I am also ready to get the door and case so that the environment can be more controlled... ie. keep the air hot and breeze free when wanted and cool it when wanted...
I have a duct design, but I need to make one more tweak. The clearance between the hot end and the inner hole was too close and it melted.
The tough thing about fan cooling is strength and bed temperature. With the fan on, the bed doesn't get much more than 70-80, so unsticking is a hazard. Also if the plastic is cooled too quickly as it is extruded, it doesn't bond as well. I had legs that snapped off with minimal force. I was printing at 190 so the plastic wouldn't have as far to cool, but I'm thinking that was a mistake. I want to try printing at 200, and hope the fan still cools it enough to get the layer rigid.
Right now the fan has to be on all the time, but there is a way to hook it up to the board for gcode control. Unfortunately it involves soldering headers to the board, and soldering a small electronic kit to go between the fan and the board. It would be worth it though, because it would let you turn on the fan only for small layers and bridging.
My duct is sized for a 40mm case fan. To power it, I took a wall wart from a dead router and soldlered a connector to its wires. I'll post the STL after I finish the non-melting version.
Looks like you are closing in on something though. I would love to experiment with what you are discussing. If you could link me to the kit/location of headers and directions to get the gcode cooling I will try it later this week. I have as much problem with perimeters cooling too fast because the printer is not enclosed as I do with needing to cool certain laye faster.
That 0.1mm print looks pretty amazing.
Id like to see some more 0.1mm stuff before attempting it myself 
Here are the links for controlling a fan with the sanguinololu-
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22202
Kit on ebay-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI. … 813wt_1139
Instructions for the kit-
Where will you get the extra pins from to control the fan?
After fitting lcd and sd I have 1 12v, 1 5v, and 1 grnd left, and thats all..
That's the thing that sucks, it's one or the other. With a fan, I could at least still use the SD reader. Another option would be switching over to RAMPS which can control a fan through the connection meant for the second extruder heater. That would be another $190 or so, plus figuring out how to mount it to the case.
The difference in detail is really becoming remarkable thanks to all the help on this forum. If your patient enough, in 12 hours you can have your very own plastic dragon. And it looks nice 
The difference in detail is really becoming remarkable thanks to all the help on this forum. If your patient enough, in 12 hours you can have your very own plastic dragon. And it looks nice
jooshs,
My family collects oriental dragons... would you mind pointing me in the direction of that stl file? I'd love to make one for my father.
Thanks!
Here it is- http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17303
Do a search on Thingiverse for dragon, there are some others there you might like.
on that fan, could you put a potentiometer somewhere in the line so you could adjust the fan speed ?
Yes. But apparently you can also get a little board with a couple of parts and have it interface with the Sanguino. And Repetier Host then has the ability to control the fan speed.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → STL Sharing & Print Showoff → Dragon at .3 and .1 mm resolution
Powered by PunBB, supported by Informer Technologies, Inc.
